Timwell

Hey All, Back again on this topic. As of now i have built a chassis jig/frame and am in the process of bolting up my bent 240z to it. And here is the rub. I spent countless hours pouring over the only chassis dimensions document out there. That being the BF-3 204z dimensions PDF. As described previously I was thinking that the dimensions are wrong, or my car is very, very bent. With what I describe below, I don't think the car can possibly be 'that' bent. Some framing of the problem, with a crap pun: I have used four mounting points (described from rear to front): (1) Rear diff mount (not mustachio bar), (4 lateral bolts) (2) Front mount to the rear lower control arm, (4 lateral bolts) (3) Transmission mount, and then (two lateral bolts) (4) Front Strut Tower Top ("A" point). The dimensions (that don't work): (1) Reference point. (2) 465mm from ref. (1). this one is 15mm to short. (closer to 480mm) (3) 1427.5mm from ref. (1). This one lines up. (4) 2381.3mm from ref. (1). This one is 20mm to short. (closer to 2401.3mm) To my point......what the heck is going on here??!! Between point ref 1 and 2 my car is 480mm. In the BF-3 document, there is no reference to a 480mm dimension.... The car cannot be warped by 15mm, it's all structural mounting points. So, what am I missing? Moving on to the dimension between 1 and 4. Again, too short by 15 to 20mm... So, what is the actual dimension? All of the lateral dimensions are correct. I scratch my head. It's great though as it gives me something to talk with my wife about over dinner. Thank you in advance!

A few photos of bent rails

Hi, yes, it's taken a hit to the front. Bent chassis rails in the engine bay. They will be removed and replaced. Panel gaps were fine. What has me confused is that the towers, top to top, are LONGER, than the dimensions in the diagram. If anything it should be shorter. The car is properly bent/twisted, hence the chassis frame I'm making. Plan is to bolt the car up to it, then bold the frame to the floor with jack screws. Then all said and done torqe it down with jack screws to get the twist out of it. My question is, I guess, am I looking at the right diagram? Am ai missing something? If the diagrams are right, then I'll build the mounts to those numbers and then bend/force/twist it on.

Hey All, Long time no posts. I'm after some help with my current project and was hoping someone here could help me out. restored my last one 20 years ago, this time I want to make a chassis jig to make sure its all straight prior to putting in the new (many) panels. I have gone through all of the documents that show chassis dimensions, mainly BF-3 and BF-5, but...... my car seems to be quite a bit off. In particular my strut tops, (point A to point D). I measure mine at about 2378mm, but the documents show 2348.3mm (450 + 1585 + 313.3). What am I missing here, surely my car hasnt stretched? Should I build the jig to the dimensions in the document, cut out the panels and then weld it all back together at the advertised dimensions? Thanks in advance all. Tim

SOLD.....$19K which I believe was pretty cheap. ENJOY

Thanks, ..........Yeah she is A1, not a word of a lie. Tim

$21,000 now, gotta pay the upcoming bills

Now with 10 months rego.......not 12 months however due to NSW RTA unconstitutional fees on rego

Not an issue at all in traffic. The guy that tuned the carbs took a few days to do it and now it runs perfectly. Its a bit tricky when cold (like most carby cars) buts still starts easily if you pump the accelerator. By the way it has a new battery installed and I'm In the process of putting 12 months rego on it. Cobra, Thanks, Hope your build is going well. regards, Tim

No not through this site. Well maybe I should let them do it then before they get the refund shut down the account!!!

how does it work....they want a paypal account.... then what?

Hey dudes, Trying to sell my Z on this site. Also selling it on Car sales. Im pretty sure there is a warning on CARSALES.COM about the following email/type of scam. Pretty easy to spot. Just look at the dodgy grammer. Anyway keep an eye out and be very wary. regards, "Tim Thanks for the prompt response.. I am ready to buying it now for birthday gift for my Great Mother and i am at sea at the moment as i am a marine engineer and due to the nature of my work, phone calls making and visiting of website are restricted but i squeezed out time to check this advert and send you an email regarding it. I really want the car to be a surprise for my Mother so i wont let her know anything about the car until it gets delivered to her, i am sure she will be more than happy with the car. I insisted on paypal because i don't have access to my bank account online as i don't have internet banking, but i can pay from my paypal account, as i have my bank a/c attached to it, i will need you to give me your paypal email address and the price so i can make the payments asap for the car and pls if you don't have paypal account yet, it is very easy to set up, go to www.paypal.com.au and get it set up, after you have set it up i will only need the e-mail address you use for registration with paypal so as to put the money through. I have a pick up agent that will come and pick the car up after i have made the payments... Thanks."

What type of engine is the one in the orange Z? I haven't seen one of these before. thanks, Tim

On a note that is pretty close to this is a few You tube videos about rust removal. essentially you put your piece in a chemical mixture and run a current through it. Sort of liek when you get stuff chromed or zinc plated. The difference is the rust literally changes from rust back to metal!!. Worth a look it you need to clean up some small hard to get parts.

I am even more convinced now. I honestly thought this thing was a gimmik untill I looked at the door skins and the floor pans.... All I can say it GET ONE. Tim