Timwell

Hey All, Back again on this topic. As of now i have built a chassis jig/frame and am in the process of bolting up my bent 240z to it. And here is the rub. I spent countless hours pouring over the only chassis dimensions document out there. That being the BF-3 204z dimensions PDF. As described previously I was thinking that the dimensions are wrong, or my car is very, very bent. With what I describe below, I don't think the car can possibly be 'that' bent. Some framing of the problem, with a crap pun: I have used four mounting points (described from rear to front): (1) Rear diff mount (not mustachio bar), (4 lateral bolts) (2) Front mount to the rear lower control arm, (4 lateral bolts) (3) Transmission mount, and then (two lateral bolts) (4) Front Strut Tower Top ("A" point). The dimensions (that don't work): (1) Reference point. (2) 465mm from ref. (1). this one is 15mm to short. (closer to 480mm) (3) 1427.5mm from ref. (1). This one lines up. (4) 2381.3mm from ref. (1). This one is 20mm to short. (closer to 2401.3mm) To my point......what the heck is going on here??!! Between point ref 1 and 2 my car is 480mm. In the BF-3 document, there is no reference to a 480mm dimension.... The car cannot be warped by 15mm, it's all structural mounting points. So, what am I missing? Moving on to the dimension between 1 and 4. Again, too short by 15 to 20mm... So, what is the actual dimension? All of the lateral dimensions are correct. I scratch my head. It's great though as it gives me something to talk with my wife about over dinner. Thank you in advance!

A few photos of bent rails

Hi, yes, it's taken a hit to the front. Bent chassis rails in the engine bay. They will be removed and replaced. Panel gaps were fine. What has me confused is that the towers, top to top, are LONGER, than the dimensions in the diagram. If anything it should be shorter. The car is properly bent/twisted, hence the chassis frame I'm making. Plan is to bolt the car up to it, then bold the frame to the floor with jack screws. Then all said and done torqe it down with jack screws to get the twist out of it. My question is, I guess, am I looking at the right diagram? Am ai missing something? If the diagrams are right, then I'll build the mounts to those numbers and then bend/force/twist it on.

Hey All, Long time no posts. I'm after some help with my current project and was hoping someone here could help me out. restored my last one 20 years ago, this time I want to make a chassis jig to make sure its all straight prior to putting in the new (many) panels. I have gone through all of the documents that show chassis dimensions, mainly BF-3 and BF-5, but...... my car seems to be quite a bit off. In particular my strut tops, (point A to point D). I measure mine at about 2378mm, but the documents show 2348.3mm (450 + 1585 + 313.3). What am I missing here, surely my car hasnt stretched? Should I build the jig to the dimensions in the document, cut out the panels and then weld it all back together at the advertised dimensions? Thanks in advance all. Tim

SOLD.....$19K which I believe was pretty cheap. ENJOY

Thanks, ..........Yeah she is A1, not a word of a lie. Tim

$21,000 now, gotta pay the upcoming bills

Now with 10 months rego.......not 12 months however due to NSW RTA unconstitutional fees on rego

Not an issue at all in traffic. The guy that tuned the carbs took a few days to do it and now it runs perfectly. Its a bit tricky when cold (like most carby cars) buts still starts easily if you pump the accelerator. By the way it has a new battery installed and I'm In the process of putting 12 months rego on it. Cobra, Thanks, Hope your build is going well. regards, Tim

No not through this site. Well maybe I should let them do it then before they get the refund shut down the account!!!

how does it work....they want a paypal account.... then what?

Hey dudes, Trying to sell my Z on this site. Also selling it on Car sales. Im pretty sure there is a warning on CARSALES.COM about the following email/type of scam. Pretty easy to spot. Just look at the dodgy grammer. Anyway keep an eye out and be very wary. regards, "Tim Thanks for the prompt response.. I am ready to buying it now for birthday gift for my Great Mother and i am at sea at the moment as i am a marine engineer and due to the nature of my work, phone calls making and visiting of website are restricted but i squeezed out time to check this advert and send you an email regarding it. I really want the car to be a surprise for my Mother so i wont let her know anything about the car until it gets delivered to her, i am sure she will be more than happy with the car. I insisted on paypal because i don't have access to my bank account online as i don't have internet banking, but i can pay from my paypal account, as i have my bank a/c attached to it, i will need you to give me your paypal email address and the price so i can make the payments asap for the car and pls if you don't have paypal account yet, it is very easy to set up, go to www.paypal.com.au and get it set up, after you have set it up i will only need the e-mail address you use for registration with paypal so as to put the money through. I have a pick up agent that will come and pick the car up after i have made the payments... Thanks."

What type of engine is the one in the orange Z? I haven't seen one of these before. thanks, Tim

On a note that is pretty close to this is a few You tube videos about rust removal. essentially you put your piece in a chemical mixture and run a current through it. Sort of liek when you get stuff chromed or zinc plated. The difference is the rust literally changes from rust back to metal!!. Worth a look it you need to clean up some small hard to get parts.

I am even more convinced now. I honestly thought this thing was a gimmik untill I looked at the door skins and the floor pans.... All I can say it GET ONE. Tim

Yeah the lumps of zinc are called sacrificial anodes. The same is used on hulls of ships and bridge pylons. Not to sure how the electronic thing works however. It most defiantly cant reverse the polarity of the chassis. It simply puts a very low electric charge into the chassis that inturn significantly slows (doesn't stop) rust forming.

Hunter, Yep that green 240 z is mine. I was also a bit skeptical about the rust guard thing but after looking all over the car the results are truly impressive. My observations are not scientific however as I'm sure other factors came into play regarding the lack of rust in my car. Perhaps it was garaged or didn't live near the coast. Like it was said above there is no substitute to getting rid of the rust then coating it. However that being said the more methods of preventions surely the better. I would defiantly recommend this product.

and more

more pics

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OPEN TO OFFERS 1972 240z Sydney Model: 1972 240Z Chassis No. HS3013524, eng L28603314. Location: Sydney Item Condition: Body excellent, mechanical excellent. Interior excellent. Body: The car is the original lime green and shows no sign of the usual rust spots. I have checked it extensively in the battery box, in the wiper area, the firewall, kick panels, floors, wheel well, seat rails, chassis rails, engine bay and door skins. The reason there is no rust is due to an electronic devise that was fitted many years ago. This retards the development of rust through charging the chassis. Mechanical: The car has a L28 installed (no surprises) that doesn’t blow smoke, has good compression and makes not timing noises. The gearbox is a 260z box with no noises, clunks or issues. Triple 45mm webers are fitted and were tuned only 2 months ago. The car is essentially original (restored/reconditioned) less the following items: Gear knob. Gearbox (260z) Triple 45 mm webers.. absolutely brand new. Extractors...from SW motor sport, new last year. ROTA wheels 16x7, brand new with new rubber. L28 with elec dizzy. Everything else is original, even got the original radio for it. The steering wheel, dash, seats carpet, centre console, rubber, chrome etc. Everything thing in the car is in line with the period, I didn’t want to deviate from the classic look or style. Price and Payment Conditions: $21,000 but open to offers within reason, I have until December to sell this so I am not in a rush. Registration: 10 Months NSW rego. Extra Info: All suspension (see photos) has been replaced. Reason for sale: Wedding and flying lessons...my fiancée is demanding it be gone!! Contact Details: Please PM me if you have any questions or call 0406 957 155 Comments: I had a 240z many years ago and then decided to get another a year or two ago. It took a while to find a good one. This car truly follows the classic styling that the z line deserves, all of the modifications are in line with the period and style and should appeal to most buyers. I specifically wanted a very original car and this is what I ended up with. The next owner would be more that happy with this purchase. Needs a clean

$600 flat

OK CRANK IS SOLD, For real this time!! Finaly . regards, Tim

yeah you two are right. Ill just give it a month or so and repost the add......if anything one of the five original prospects may have had a change of heart

Dudes, 5 down, dont even bother responding to this thread unless you actually want this crank. Its a crank. Full stop stop. No mods, no nothing. LD28, I can't add to this description. If you are genuine I'd love to talk tou you! If you actually want it pm me. Tim