Timwell

Well it still runs on with the timing backed to 8 Degrees, Will now pull the plugs to see if there is any evidence there. Tim

hmmm I do have connections.......... Thanks, Tim P.S: Ill post when its all done.

Actually, now you mentioned it.....yes it does run backwards when shut down!! Ok so Ill change it a few Degrees tomorrow. So what should I set it to at Idle? It is currently set to 10 degrees, however this is the "factory" correct setting. Doesn't chaning the timing jjst mask an issue that requires rectification? Will this then stop the run on?? Every solution produces more questions...sorry. Tim

Wow, they are some novel ideas.... had a slight feeling that it may be preignition however there is no knocking (as far as I know). We'll I'll give it a go and see how it goes. Ill try the ATF method first. Any other ideas?? Does it sound like an ignition problem? Thanks for the help so far

Hey guys, been keeping an eye on this forum for months but only till now have had the need to speak out. Everytime I turn the car off the car runs on for about 10 seconds. It has SUs, electronic ignition and the timing is correct. Could it be the coil that is shorted? I initially thought it could be the timing but that isn't the case. Any help apreciated. Thanks, Tim

It's a long shot....however is it still for sale?? regards, Tim

Mate, the firewall rust is an easy repair. It's the stuff you cant see. Look under the mats, check out the beaver pannel. Look at the boot hinges and the dog legs. These will cost you a lot more to fix. Firewall rust (and under the battery box) is super common and easy to fix however the one to watch is the chassi rails near the radius (?) rods where they connect to the chassis. Pretty much every z has rust and you just have to deal with it. It is not so much the reust you have to worry about but more so the quality of the repair job that gets done. good luck!

well, I tried that and all I can say is hindsight is the best perspective. If I did it again. I would deliver the car with all of the holes plugged really firmly. And then ask the dude to not spray the holes. A little sand (garnet, beads, soda...what have you) may get in...however it will save a hell of a head ache later. Either way despite the head ache I would definatly sand (garnet, beads, soda...what have you ) blast the car again before beggining rust repair. Pays dividends later in the project when you begin to discover more and more rust.

Sand is sand as far as I am concearned ($1000 sand is just as annoyinig as $10 sand ) ........whats the tip/deal with removing it all then??

Stewart is by far the best guy I have dealt with when it comes to Zeds, he has great customer service and get the job doen right the first time.....I had him make up some spacers for the hilux brake kit a few years ago and he got it right first time. I have dealt with another shop and sepnt about 10k on parts here and there and without fail everysingle order was sent incorrectly. Very very frustrating.

Hey all, new to this forum but have had a zed before which I restored from the ground up. Needless to say it was a steep learning curve. very steep indeed. One such learning curve was this it was extreemly hard if not impossible to remove all of the sand from the car once it had been sand blasted. Cost me nothing after the paint shop gave me some real bad advise regarding mixing the paint and hardener so they did it for me. Cost about $600 for them. Cut a heap of rust out incl floor pannels, doglegs, kiskboards, fire wall, chassi rails abeaver pannel and boot floor. Included in my pain was the replacement of a terrible sun roof. Eventually got there but the removal of sand never really happened...unless there is a trick to it.

Is the car still for sale? I had a Z many moons ago and restored and am looking at getting another one