Timwell

No no testing of any kind, Just stock standard. PM Sent, Tim

Gents, Still for sale, yet another buyer has fallen through...thats makes 4..... Tim

Crank is still for sale.......

bump....really want to sell this crank

classic stuff

talk to most pannel/resto shops and they should be able to point you in the right direction.... Its not to much from what I recall about $500 - $1000

zedman 240 your a nerd.......

this seems like a painful process for you...where is syd do you live, I live in randwick and could come by for a quick look if need be..........three pages on the forum....arhhhh I feel your frustration!!! PM me I am free Sat 20 Mar morning .....if you live close by

just use old brake fluid, its free and is better than paint stripper.

XQRTR has it right, I remember tossing up acid dip, soda blasting, media blasting and sand blasting. In order of preference: Sand blasting is just old school and just warps metal....if your not stripping the bottom of a ship of barnacles dont use it. Soda is soft on the metal but requires a dip afterwards...ie: its good for external panels but unfortunately it gets into all of the cracks and crevices and can cause a world of problems esp if you put a rust proof over the top of it! The last two are open to argument: Media blasting is will not warp panels and wont leave residue....but it also wont remove rust from inside of panels.... Acid dipping will remove all rust form all open panels and from inside of panels etc........this is great as you will know where your problems are. People will say it will eat hole in your car...yes that's true but only where the rust is...but ask yourself would you rather know where your rust is and fix it or have no idea and just spray over it. The call is yours re the choice between Media and Acid dipping but it is really horses for course....what are you trying to achieve...full strip go acid......just a respray then just go for the media..... The best info I have found on this stuff is from commodore/ford/Holden etc forums... Just focus on getting out the rust and you should be fine

isn't the ballast resister only used to stop over voltage of the ignition circuit when cranking the engine?

In short, If you are running the Z loom then you should run the Z alternator. There are two very seperate systems at play here, that being the charging system and the battery system. The battery provides power to everything...that being said if the alternator goes down then the engine will still run for a while...just off the battery. But once the battery is dead she will stop. So all you have to make sure of is that the alternator can keep up with the charge being drawn from the battery. That is ensure the battery is provided with enough current to charge the battery in respect to the drain..ie head lights etc. To my point.....if nothing else has changed (i.e: no spotlights or sub woofers) then the current (pardon the pun) alternator should do the trick.....if it physically fits. A Six cyl to an eight cyl is not a big change...besides the spark works off voltage not amps.

my rego runs out and I wont be able to get it reg again for a week or so...... ...so much for my last comment for "definatly being there" for the nest meet up... sorry

yep, brand new rebuild, no oil..... ...I am more than happy to pour half a bottle of gearbox oil around your boot if your want however....

Hey guys, just got my triple webers tuned up at Maxi Service centre in Botany. real cheap, took a while but Nick was unbelievably thorough and meticulous. I would recommend him to anyone. He's done a few Zeds now so really knows what he is doing.

yeah I got my 240z in syd still....might even post a picture or two one day....

like I said in the other post: its original ys but its not great...there is rust in the firewall near the battery which from my experience means rust in everyother usual place. The engine bay looks tired......this car is definatly a resto job... And the colour.....yes its original but dont we all just want a red, white or silver zed (lime yellow is the best BTW)...this mustard/gold car will need a respray to push the value up.

Steve, Vince rang, once the money comes through, Ill call him and he'll come pick it up.. pretty good when a plan comes together....so far anyway. Tim

yep for sure, Ill try to make it on the next one.

Mate, i have had this problem on two different cars for two different reasons. First car was an easy fix, just remove the thermostat...its so obvious that it makes you cry in frustration...this was mentioned earlier. Second one is way trickier. It happend to my last Z so hold on here it is....... Car ran hot and I couldn't work it out....then by chance due to a leaky water pump I stumbled across the problem. The aluminium timing cover (the one at the front not the rocker cover) had developed a hole between two water jackets that lay inside the water pump. So effectively when the pump pumped it heart out all it did was either bypass the engine/radiator or it made it so inefficient that it didint do its job. If its not a hole its a blockage in one of the cores. good luck.

Lurch I dont agree entirely with its purpose: The heated manifold is not primarily there to stop icing, the primary role is to comply with emissions controll. much like the heated air that some old carbs suck in off the exhaust pipe. Either way.. blocking it off will have no or little effect.....It may even be running a little on the lean side as the density of the air is now greater. So to that end have the slightest fiddle with the colour tune once its at operating temp and I pretty much guarantee it'll need more fuel. Tim

You are quite right it is a good "original" but that's it....its a good original. I.e: no resto work done on it at all!! Like I said, It'll need a respray to up the value....I promise you, if it where white, silver, red or heaven forbid yellow with a black bonnet then It would have easily sold for 20K plus. Yeah it's original but its not great by any means........which was my original point. If this got 17k then the the one on this post is defiantly worth more. Take a look at the engine bay just near the battery...its got cancer showing...this is coming through from the wiper motor area....if this is coming through you can imagine the rest of the car! Look at the dizzy....its corroded.....this thing looks like it's sat in a shed for at least 5 years.... So my point...original yes.....very original its even got its original rust.

The shannons "mustard" Z sold for $17,500. It wasn't in great condidtion and definatly required a respray as I would't be seen driving around in that thing. The word concourse it thrown around far to much these days. This was definatly not concourse condition. Just looked like an average used car with no resto work done on it.... So for those with Zeds (240z only) its good news as they are worth a bit..... Those looking (for 240z)....unlucky I suppose. Good luck with your sale.

OK now the LD28 is for sale again..... Ill leave it up here for a while and then onto ebay it goes.......BTW there is one up there with a starting bid of $900...thats a bit steep I think. Anyway the last guy that wanted this changed his mind.

hey mate, got both books....will sell them both for $60..Ill pay the postage. Assuming your in Aust Theyre second hand of course but they still work;-) Tim