Brabham

Where does the block come from Paul, is it based on an RD28? Looking forward to seeing it take shape, will there be another jump in the power figures for this one? Cheers

Will you do a 30/26 for your next engine Paul or is it not worth it? Awesome sounding car though before the troubles.

I am after L24 120843 and L24 184241 Cheers

Not in a tin top at EC, only in an open wheeler

What happened to the engine Paul? I didn't look close enough but have you seam welded your shell or has the cage stiffened it up enough? Also wondered what fuel you were running and what the benefits are of going to E85. However I would imagine that you would need to modify your fuel system/corrosion proof it to combat the effects of the ethanol correct? Did you also extend your frame rails to stiffen it up. Cheers and hope to see it next year.

I was out there on Sat. Tried to find Paul and others at lunch but must have missed you, the zed looks immaculate, shame I didn't get to see it run. There was a high attrition rate, to be expected when you are chasing that much power from production-based engines. No worries Paul, just come back faster next year. EC does have a few tricky corners on it. Did manage to catch up with the guys in the white zed you passed, they were having probs too and cracked the exhaust manifold, it wasn't sounding too good when it went past. A good day though, the last session on Sat was run after the sun went down and some of the pro guys had their headlights on, looked spectacular.

Same seller has one without faceplate and knobs for $625. He restores the radios and sells them. His stuff does look immaculate. Maybe if you found a non-working one with the faceplate and knobs and then bought that one it might save you a bit. Big$ for a radio, but guessing early 240 ones are hard to come by. You going the OEM path on the gold one now Gav? Cheers

Hi guys, If Alan changes his mind I'll go next in line. Cheers

Can you post a pic of what it looks like? May have one buried somewhere Cheers

My TAFE teacher also said to do it over bare metal, however unless the metal is perfectly clean and the Nikki/hardener ratio perfect, I have been advised it is likely to rust underneath. I am doing epoxy/etch then sanding it to get a good key for the filler as some others are doing it. It seems the jury is still out somewhat, however I prefer this method.

I sure will Peter, however I fear taking advantage of the no reserve price by starting with an offer of $20 and a rusty 2+2 may see me leaving the auction prematurely ! At least you have the next best thing with your car. Not sure I could handle owning an original, you'd be too scared to drive it and if you wrote it off no one would forgive you. The smart money is with the BT33, and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it if I had that sort of money. Some of the old F1 cars are really good value for something that quick. I think there is a McLaren M20 on the blocks too, that would be the pick of the bunch. Looking forward to the Can-Am goodness, wish Bernie would take a leaf out of their non-existent rulebook Cheers

Hey Gav, you should be able to straighten it relatively easy with the skin off, if that doesn't work you can patch it, I was making up patches for a heavily rusted one at TAFE. I was going to suggest the way to remove the dents with the skin still on is with an "Ezy Beat" machine they have at TAFE. It welds a stud in the bottom of the dent, and you can then exert a pull on it, and twist the stud off to break the weld. No holes, no slide hammers or other bodgery is necessary! The Tafe teacher will be able to help you straighten it and get it back on. Was hoping to tell you about the Ezy Beat before you had the skin off, but you work too fast! Looks like a pretty good bonnet though, it is a lot harder when the frame gets bent from a front hit. Cheers

Looks like it might be an early girl too-do you know what the chassis no. is? noticed the twin choke levers

No worries will go next in line of course

I get 40 miles to the gallon on this hog

I am after a 240Z and 260 2+2 console as well, with no extra cut outs in them if anyone has one. Jason what is yours like? Cheers

Nice, where did you find those Gav? Are there many other pairs around? Wouldn't mind a pair myself

Just use the RX-7 as a daily Gav, it's insured right? Or bring the other 240 to Sydney as a daily Nice cars are meant to be driven I would drive an RX-7 as a daily in Sydney, wouldn't bother me.

I think the same guy used to do the housings as well. Send him a message, there was an eBay guy who def did the housings too

The best presents are ones you buy yourself You should have a play with the MIG at TAFE too Gav, you may find that you prefer it to oxy as it puts less heat into the panel and doesn't warp it so much so planishing is not needed so much, doesn't burn all your paint off too! It is somewhat personal preference though, the TAFE teachers tend to be old school and prefer oxy. Once I learnt how to MIG, I much preferred it to oxy. Nice badges, you may want to look at getting that fascia plastic chromed, think Adam got the centres of his tail lights done. Cheers

No flares! :'( I reckon in 5-10 years time everyone will want to put their cars back to original as the values increase and so many have now been cut for flares. Putting the rear back to original is very tricky as it is a double panel and getting it to look like it was never cut requires the work of a master. Just my 2 cents worth, Nat's work looks amazing though

Good work Rudolf. lurch does the doglegs for a +2, they are different to a 2-seater. Sounds like your shell might be too good to need blasting, once you do all the usual rust areas it may not need it, would only do it to a heavily rusted shell. Keep it up

Why do you use soda on the external surfaces Paul? Is it to avoid warpage?

Hi Gav, Yep that is the style I am after. I suspect that is a Watanabe replica as they do them in 9 and 9.5. Originals were 10J and 12.5J. You are right in that they are exceedingly hard to find, I wish I knew how to speak Japanese at times! If I can't find originals I may have to settle for a measly 9.5" I imagine that there were only around 50-100 sets made originally, some of which were destroyed in racing. Cheers

Hi Gav, Has anyone here bought anything off buyee? Would you need to get someone like Jesse streeter to ship bigger stuff? Keep an eye on the Kobe Seiko wheels, I am still chasing a set of the works wheels as used on the factory circuit cars - 15 x 10 and 15 x 12.5 Cheers