Brabham

Hahahaha be-zed is right! You then decide it would have been far cheaper and easier to buy a working zed but by this stage you have no money left!

What does the hand throttle knob do? Seems rather curious...

Hi Gav, came across this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240z-Choke-Knob-for-Interior-Console-NEW-OEM-Nissan-/281255242417?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417c1e6ab1#ht_958wt_981 it is a very expensive knob though! Ebay US will be your best bet to find these things, dollar heading south atm though which doesn't help

If Gav passes on the tank I am interested. I take it the twin pickups is to get more volume of fuel through? Cheers

Fix it - you know you want to!

Just so people know a similar course is being run at St.Leonards for which I have signed up. It will also struggle to get numbers so if either course is short we may need to transfer to the other campus. Cheers

Hi Gav, noticed that this car has the Koito headlights, making me think they are originals from our previous discussion. Did the Fibreglass nosecones have the studs moulded into them or were they drilled and bolted to the guards? Noticed that Topstage does glass ones if George wanted to go down that path, anyone tried those? Agree with you, George can do a lot of stuff himself to save money, but can farm out bits and pieces as finances allow on the body, no rush to finish it as it will be a big project. I would be hesistant to put a car with this much rust in it on a rotisserie as someone said as I would be worried about it buckling with the floor and sills gone and a rusty roof. Cheers

Ebay US, heaps of sellers

What color door cards and seats were you after? Will help with your search. Cheers

Wow nice find George, the parts car looks immaculate by comparison and too good to cut up! Keep an eye out for another roof cut, you can save both of them! Looks like the original color may have been white? Good luck with the build, the race between you and Gav is now on! At least TAFE will have two guaranteed enrolments for the next 20 years Love the hurricane wheels too.

It is a lot easier to push around if you put the tires up to around 40 PSI Gav

Sounds like the engine is seized Gav if you are putting that much force on it, looks like it will need a rebuild. Wondering if anyone has tried to remove the engine and trans as one unit as in the factory manual or is separating them recommended? I thought Revzed was doing the diamond vinyl a while ago or knew where to get it? Cheers

Saw it down at the GP this year, nice car. Benalla Datsun sponsorship on the rear wing too. At least the cowcatcher on the front is gone now

Thanks Scott, sounds like the Loctite might be the go, will have a look at that. Assuming it also prevents electrolysis too? Cheers

Just came across this, all you ever need to know about fasteners, may be handy as a sticky. Stainless bolts will marginally increase the corrosion rate of the base metal, however zinc plated ones also corrode leaving bare metal, often resulting in seized bolts as I am sure we have all experienced. However the corrosion will only occur in the presence of an electrolyte ie water or high humidity. http://www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf Scott what anti-seize do you use? I was looking at INOX with a machine oil base, light grease may also work. Titanium also looks ok for racecars, however is getting up there in terms of the potential difference between the two metals and exy at about $5 for an M6 bolt. Has anyone here used Ti bolts on their racecars, Porsche used to do this at Le Mans.

I was hoping there wouldn't be much of an electrolytic reaction Locky The headlight housing retaining bolts are stainless and I haven't had a problem there, they came out alright. However, my mate who has a boat said that he has seen some problems with stainless bolts freezing into steel but this is obviously a marine environment. The main areas I was thinking of doing this were along the front guards, the indicator panels to nosecones and the front valance panel, all areas where I have seen the factory bolts rust and snap far too often, resulting in many tears :'(. Surely stainless in those areas would have to be better than zinc plated steel? Maybe a drop of oil on the bolt might prevent any reaction taking place? Still thinking about this. Simon where do you get unbrakos from? The two areas where I was thinking of socket head cap screws were the grill and the nosecone to indicator panel as they look a bit neater than hex bolts. All other areas I would stick with hex bolts as you can get a lot more force on them(until they snap!) Would titanium bolts have the same problem - there is an ebay seller offering these (primarily for bikes, although some of the bolts would suit Datsuns). Obviously unless the compounds of both bolt and panel are identical, there is always going to be an extent of electrolysis, but I was hoping to prevent snapping any bolts in the future, and what about the tensile strength of stainless? Cheers

Would there be any issues with switching some of the external bolts on a car to stainless steel form normal zinc plated steel? I was told stainless bolts were a bit softer than normal bolts. I would only be switching bolts that hold panels on, nothing that requires high tensile bolts. Was going to go to 316 stainless to prevent rusty bolts snapping off. Cheers

Do you know if those repros are plastic or metal John? Cheers

I am after a pair of original brackets that attach to the head for lifting an L26 out of the engine bay. If anyone has a pair of these brackets would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

What years did the early D hubcaps run to Lurch and when did the later style ones come in? Is it relatively easy to restore a set or is there anything you need to be aware of - ie broken clips or similar? I assume the ones I posted suit later model z cars? Cheers

Check these out Gav http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-240-Z-260-ZXHUB-CAPS-SET-OF-4-14-/251391992969?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a88216489#ht_291wt_1133 You know you want to

Pretty nice zed there Gav, good that you scored some chassis rails too, only remove as little metal as you need to do the repair, always best to keep as much original metal as possible, although you still need to make sure all the rust is gone/treated. Sounds like headgasket has gone, if you are going to pull engine out probably not worth putting one back in as the bay needs some work on it, pump the tires up high and two people can push it around on the flat ok. I thought the original headlights were Koito's? That is what is stamped on the headlight housings and I have seen car with lamps to match, Lucas was British and GE US, Koito's are Japanese made so would make sense. The two switches are 1)NOS and 2)Methanol-water injection. No, don't know what they are for either but look aftermarket even though there are cutouts for them-someone will know. My vote for new wheels goes to original steelies and the plastic covers - everyone has Wats now! Good luck with it

Awesome, glad it will be saved from scrap, may give Gav a hand to put it in if he needs it, hope his car is as good as it looks in the photos though. Cheers all

Hi guys, Gav you can have it, will be easier for PB's mate to grab it. If you end up not needing it then I might be able to get it off you. Cheers

Hey Mick, any reason why you would not leave the RB25 in the 240Z and race that, you could always restore this one to original . Only reasons I say that are it would be easier, and the 2+2 would be at least 100KG heavier than the 240, that is a lot of extra weight on the track. I do love the Hayashi's though!