nizm0zed

2K shouldnt be sprayed outside of a booth, if the EPA catch you doing it they'll really kick your ass. It does give a better finish off the gun and its a lot harder paint, so it lasts longer, more chip resistant ect. Its a little harder to cut back and polish though, you wouldnt do it by hand... Acrylic is softer, easier to cut and polish (easier to accidentally cut through, particularly on edges) and in theory can achieve a higher gloss with lots of rubbing. I have heard that all the real high end hotrods are still painted in acrylic because they can get such a great finish out of it, but those cars are often full on show cars or very rarely driven. I have sprayed in acrylic and had a bit of a go with 2K, i prefer 2K Im no expert though, for that you'd want to listen to the golden advice of Sirpent (John)

How far will $30K get you? Maybe ship it to South Africa for Classicman's friends to do the resto on it? Then you keep your car, its in good shape for you to enjoy with your family and likely still be in good shape for your kids to inherit. Look at the thread on his car to see their work. Or potentially sell it and buy someone elses hidden problems.

ohhh, I miss mine... Should have never sold it. I had a blue S1 with a 13B and twin 48mm down draught webers on it. It sounded like a swarm of angry wasps, moved like the wind and kept my wallet very very empty. I sold it because I thought petrol was too expensive to run it, back in 99...

wouldnt the employee of the all knowing all powerful internet super company know how to get around geo restrictions? Or is that a big no no in your contract

wow, that was a while ago, think ive done maybe 2-3kms since then (yea, 2 or 3kms, not hundreds lol) If i remember correctly i machined a bit of meat off the hubs. Pretty sure i was really dodgy and did it with an angle grinder while it was still mounted to the spindle too...

sad news to hear. I had always enjoyed what he had to say on hybridz as he really was a genuinely intelligent and decent person. As a fellow bike rider, its not a way i would want anyone to go. I'll have a drink in his honour tonight.

worse than that, this is not the first product from supercheap that has been recalled like this. They have had several other types of axle stands and floor jacks recalled for various saftey reasons over the years, however they continue to keep buying low quality garbage from china and bringing it into the country. The recalls generally only come about after a failure and subsequent investigation.

many years under my belt in the trade and i had never heard of this. a good excuse to buy more tools!!! (as if i need and excuse haha) edit, nice link gav, those transformers would be worth a bit now, used to have soundwave and all his cassette bots when i was a kid...

wow, this is awesome, finally set aside some time to read up on it all, reminds me i need to pull my finger out and go do some work on mine. and yes, definitely 2 chassis!!!

Id take these off you but I have no way of getting to you to pickup...

whoops... One of those things you only ever do once, like forgetting to leave the nut on the shaft when removing a steering wheel...

Im fairly certain I mentioned what combo of engine mounts I used in my conversion in my build thread (Somewhere in the last few pages) but from memory its the stock RB25 engine mount brackets onto R31? rubber mounts fitted to the stock crossmember. The sump is obviously custom but everything clears nicely. I have thermo fans fitted so I cant comment on the OEM RB viscous fan, but I have a feeling it may just squeeze in. The gearbox mount was 100% scratch built by me and I was able to use my stock 260z manual tailshaft, the spline and length was perfect. I used the non turbo RB25 box though, its slimmer. I know the turbo box needs mods to the trans tunnel, it doesnt clear past the crossmember mounts on the body.

Whats wrong with Magnas??? I have one as a daily, it was reliable till i put a turbo on it hahaha

The Bowdens Own guys dont use any car covers at all, they dont reccomend them at all!! They say that even the cleanest cover will still wear against the paintwork, and this is even inside their showroom/warehouse/garage/museum whatever you wanna call it. Obviously, the best cover for your car is one that doesnt touch the paint, So, one of those inflatable car bubble things, or next best is a temp carport with enclosed sides (make sure its secured down well) then one of the fleece lined soft covers, then an indoor cover with an outdoor cover over it, then a good outdoor cover, then a cheap cover, then nothing. All depends on your budget and how good your paintwork is. For 90% of people, anything from a good outdoor cover or better will be fine. The cheap covers are a decent short term solution, but they deteriorate in the sun. Also, bear in mind it is really hard to remove, fold, store and then refit an outdoor cover without picking up dirt and crap onto the inside lining, even with multiple people, unless your doing it inside a warehouse type environment like Classicman's storage place. This may limit how often you can use the car...

do you know how to program the megasquirt and tune the car? Like really tune it properly, not just hope to figure it out and cross your fingers that it'll tune itself? If your not tuning it, who is going to tune it? and what system do they use? The megasquirts have a few quirks to them that are unique and some tuners wont even touch them. Its not really a 'cheap' solution, because once you cost it all out, get it tuned, fiddle with everything, all the custom work ect, you can pick up a mainstream aftermarket ECU (secondhand) for a little bit more cash. the support alone usually makes it worthwile, not to mention that its a LOT more likely to find tunes from similar builds, making it a lot easier to initially set up. I had a megasquirt on mine, ended up ditching it because it was a pain in the ass. If your keen to go with megasquirt, there is a lot of info on http://forums.hybridz.org/ Best advice i can give you though, whatever ECU you go with, try to make sure it'll connect via USB to windows XP/Vista/7 or later, even if it has to be through a USB to RS232 serial converter. actually find a working example, not just someone who says it should work. Old legacy computers with dedicated serial ports are getting REAL hard to find, and real hard to keep running. there is no driver or software support, Windows XP is no longer supported. I have a couple of old Haltech E6X ECU's that im going to sell off cheap one day, simply because i no longer have the tech or operating systems capable of connecting to them.

dont need it, but the rotary guys will often pay silly amounts of cash for things, could be worthwhile putting up on ebay? Especially if its a genuine vintage mazda manual.

the headlights on the modern cars like the Audi's and Jeeps turn off (or dim) when the indicator is on so you can see them, but bear in mind they are the ONLY indicators on them, so they have to do that. You still have a functioning OEM indicator under the bumper (and on the quarter if fitted) so the headlight indicator is a supplement and i would wager doesnt need the headlight to dim when its on. The headlight indicator would never be able to be used as the only indicator though, because the headlight doesnt dim and because it probably wouldnt pass the condition of being fully visible at a 45 degree angle. I like it, it looks good.

LED main headlights are coming out OEM fitment on vehicles now, i have seen a few trucks with them fitted. The difference at night both as a bystander and driver of said vehicle compared to the old incandescents is incredible. It would be very interesting to see how the aftermarket kids perform, I know the brand 'Speaker' (part of Phillips iirc) make some very good units, including items that are ADR arroved, however like anything there are always poor chinese copies. The LED's generate quite a lot of heat so they require a big heatsink, and they draw a decent amount of power too, so any aftermarket kit would need to address this in its design or fail in operation.

could be worthwhile rewiring the lights so that the bulk of the power doesnt run through the switch, it'll reduce the load on the contacts that cause them to burn out and increase the brightness of the globes themselves. Alternatively, considering how clean your car is, with a bit of care and trickery a sub loom could be made to sit over the top of the factory loom using the headlight plugs as the inputs for the relays, that way there would be no actual modifications to the car itself, just an additional power wire attached to the battery terminal and a ground wire somewhere out of the way. (maybe i should make these as a kit, could be a nice bit of loose change to be had...)

so mine is 'close enough' to period correct mods? lol Not that i'll be seeing the road any day soon haha

crazy idea, but maybe a factory in China coud knock up a batch? Sure, they'd probably only do a minimum of 10,000 units, but between the Australian, American and Japanese market they would sell pretty quick. I would expect 10,000 units to be gone within a 1.5-2 year timeframe (pending price, obviously) I would take a guess that your unit price from the factory would be $1-3 each, with a reasonable resale value at $40 a pair. Once you have sold your stock and shown a market for it, you then sell on the 'intellectual property rights' and China contacts to MSA or Black Dragon for a reasonable fee, then let the rest of it be their problem when the market is satisfied and demand dries up. Now all we need is a backer with some cash to invest...

id be very happy if mine turned out looking as good as yours...

jeez dude? what did you expect? the masses flocking to you with handfulls of cash? Maybe they would throw it at your feet and beg for the privlidge of buying your car off you? Sure, it looks nice, itd make a nice weekend toy for someone who wants an old jap sports car just to look cool to people who dont really know or care. But with an attitude like that why would anyone want to buy anything off you? Why would wreckers hate forums? We are the same customers who buy parts off you at the counter. A lot of customers dont think much of wreckers who think they are doing us a favour charging high prices for unknown condition parts, or treating customers with an arrogant attitude, now you know why we shop online or part out the vehicles amongst ourselves. See you later, dont let the door hit your ass on the way out.

I saw his latest pic on fb, a guy is buiding the roll cage and he's playing with the steering wheel in his clean white shirt, I can imagine the brooom brooom noises for myself ;D

It must be hard to build a nice car by throwing money at a workshop... I wouldnt know, im not rich. Should be pretty good though, im watching him on FB too.