herrods

Wait til you get my email back garvice. I didnt recognise the name, so I sent an email back Dear Bradley, Thankyou for you email I am very sorry to hear about your predicament. I would love to help out, but I promised another friend I would help him with a similar predicament he had in africa. I wired him my 5, 000. But her I tell you what, if you wire me $5000, I can give that to him instead, and then I would be able to help out. Let me know if you are interested. (or to that effect)

Herrods is a ford aftermarket manufacturer. My dad bought a BA xr8 with herrods springs and exhaust in it just as I started joinging forums, and I have used it ever since

240z/260z/280z/280zx.... you would be wrappping 360degrees to get it all on. Just put the Aus Z car as you have it, and underneath Classic Z car Club Covers everything, everybody happy, and nobody will be doing a ring around you to read your hat

Looks like some good kit there mate I have just done one of these conversions (bought from another member of this forum) and I thought I might post some questions on behalf of other members based on the difficulties I had. - Custom engine mounts or modified original crossmember? - Tailshaft custom to fit to which diff? Although the original 2 seater tailshaft is supposed to fit, it does not, by a bees **** which may be due to mounts on the gearbag engine or diff in my car - What ECU (if any) comes with the wiring? - Have you installed powersteering into the car? and does that come with? reason I ask is because the crossmember (in my case) was modified to fit the rack and the hard liines for it. - Does a gearbag come with it? and the modified crossmember to suit it? This will impact the tailshaft fitment Again, Looks like good kit, and i couldnt be happier witht he conversion to my car, for outright power without losing the overall balance of the car. Good luck with the sale and I hope the above helps interest other members.

When my alternator carked it, It had a centripital fault, which apparently means it was spun @ too many RPM's I bought a bosch 120amp unit and had an auto elec fit it correctly etc. Not my twin tyhermos, stereo and the meagre draw the restr of the car has wont/cant kill the alternator. more expensive than repairin, but you do get twice as powerful/brand new alternator.

I have a 1990 BMW 318is in red. I boughtn it for a daily when my car went off the road the first time (prior to owning a zed) now, the IS, stands for (I believe) Intelligent Sport. The previous owner put it on king super lows, and welded a Canon muffler to the backside of it. BUT through all my thrashing, pointless sliding, track days, skidpan days going "rally" driving on mates farms, and etc etc, the only things I have ever replaced are the front guard after a bingle with a steel guard rail that jumped in front of me. the tyres (far too regularly) and the general maintenace of fluids etc. oh wait a new set of brakepads once about 2 years ago. not bad for a car that gets more abuse than a punch-bag @ the Gym.

That brace from the US doesnt look like it would do a whole lot, except add another layer of metal to the already existing chassis rails. Whittie, I have started to do some digging for current prices etc with stuart wilkins, but given the fact that my engine and gearbox are not standard, it may become a bit of an issue getting one that is such a snug fit to where the original gearbox etc fits in. That being said, the point you raised about not being ripped off or bending the chassis should it come in contact with something on the road surface is a good one. It could be somewhat difficult in my position to achieve this though, because my 3" straight through exhaust is the lowest point under the car, and so any chassis bracing would have to go underneatht hat,m lowering the lowest point by the width of the tube. so: - If the brace was made from a flat plate like the one from america, do you gain nany rigidity, or just another piece of metal? - If the brace was made from tubing, and then flattened to give maximum ground clearance as it passes under the exhaust (think stepping on a garden hose) would it lose strength, - If a brace was made in the shape of a perfect X, and mounted under the rear of the motor and the gearbox, but not extending the rest of the way down the chassis rails, would the car then suffer from a case of transfer of stress, where the twisting etc is simply transferred to the unbraced section? Apart from that, I will wait to hear back from SW motorsport. In answer to you question Rb30x, I have never seen a brace like what you are talking about either. One i intend to make for myself though is a modification on teh strut braced posted earlier. If you jump onto the google image search, and look for the front storage on an MR2, the original strut brace is the idea I had in mind. This is because there is about half of a bee's member's worth of clearance in my engine bay with the hood shut.

It comes in many different names, (as the title suggests) Im talking about the brace one may put under their car to improve rigidity, bolted to the chassis rails @ the firewall and close to the diff, made of tube steel. First of all, Has anyone ever seen one of these for a Z, and if so, where can one buy one. If there is a lack of product, I intend to make one, and one for anyone who also wants one @ the same time. Before I delve into the making process, any siggestions on optimum material for max rigitity, without the cost of something stupidly heavy. I was thinking the same tube steel as 4WD rock sliders are made of, which is about 40mm outer diameter, 2mm thick mild steel tubing, The reason for this creation is because I have found a small crack in the chassis rail at the point where the firewall completes its curve, turning into the floor pan... anyone shed some light on this/have an opinion? Cheers Dave

I have lived in and around epping my whole life. We are about 45 mins from the city on an average day, far enough out that you can get a house with a lock up garage for rent @ about $600 p/w easy drive to out west, north and there are shops and train station close by for a 20 min train ride to the city. in my opiniopn, its far enough out to not be in the city, and close enough not to be a pain to get to the city. I have a 3 bedroom brick house, with a lock up separate garage, and I am paying 490 a week in rent. I have a few friends in the area with various combinations of house/garage @ around the same price. hope that helps Dave

matching paint,regardless of the colour/type is the bane of our existence. it could even be down to fade in the originally laid paint, sitting inthe sun or inder lightx or in a bit of heat etc etcand the colour being changed because of that, different type of thinner, or different amnount (down to +/_/- 5ml ish could have made the difference. even when matching, the body shops will blend the paint up into the next set of panels,o that the eye cannot pick up differences, and even this is a sketchy way of getting things to match up correctly. it could even be the amount of time it took the clear to go off,or the amout of tack in the paint between clear coats, whether you shook the gun 3 times or 2 timee atr the beginning its a dark art painting.

nice photos, love the colour of that one.

I for one would be interested to see these new stripes when they are sorted. Will you be offering them in other colours? for instance a white with black "datsun" or without the "Datsun" bit on them? seeing the photos im sure will answer all those questions.... but im the impatient one haha

"The registration process will not take long, and there is nothing to pay at all unless you successfully recover compensation. IMF will fund all the costs, for which it will receive its money back and a 25% share of any compensation received. You have everything to gain, and nothing to lose." The IMF will fund all teh costs, for which it will recieve ITS MONEY BACK and a 25%share of any compensation received. As far as I can tell what that actually means, is that whatever the legal bill comes to, which in something this large will be monstrous, is what IMF gets, PLUS the 25%. If they split the bill evenly between all the parties, because all the parties have been equally represented, then you may find that your $60 bank fee is refunded to you less $40 for your share of the legal bill, less 25% (for example) Which means unless you are getting slugged once a week for the $60, you end up coming out about the same as where you had been when you started out. Because when you are represented, your $60 in overdrawn, is represented equally with the guy down the road who has $5000 in fees to claim. So because the representation was equal, the split will be equal, but mr $5000 still comes out on top.

IF you had a car that had a bit of a nose down attitude... and you swapped front to rear... would you end up level? or with a nose up attitude.. or are you just poop for brains...

grammar aside, the makers of th eproduct say pushing out,

As long as the tension is fairly even front compared to rear. As far as my limited knowledge goes, having more tension on the front will induce some understeer, is it has less flex than theh rear, and vice versa. that said, they are not supposed to be used as a means to control under/oversteer, and setting them evenly allows the bits that ARE supposed to adjust handling to work correctly. Mine are adjusted t push out slightly as well.

someone correct me if im wrong a pulsar comes in three basic motor categories. 1.6L, 1.8L and 2.0L the ONLY pulsar with teh 2L is the SSS, and above this is the GTi-R, having 2L turbo. you cant have an SR20 pulsar without going a SSS. if you go for a standard no mods one, you shouldnt have a problem, the SSS car is split between the sensible, never modded wants a daily driver probably bought it new, and the thrashers candy paint chrome wheels couldnt quite afford a sports car crowd. if you dont want a SSS, then you cant have an SR20, u end up with the 1.8 or god forbid the 1.6L as far as my pulsar knowledge serves me....

As I said, we have a 2001 N15 Pulsar SSS auto, so SR20de, 5 speed auto box. Its a great little car, but I would HIGHLY reccomend buying one in manual. the autos are smooth etc etc greatb to drive, but not if you are in any form of anything that may resemble a hurry. the SR20 as you know has a timing chain, so you wont have any worries there, and the interior fitout on the SSS (dunno if its different to standard) is very good, and very hard wearing. the GTI-R is a N14, is older, and has most likely been thrashed to within an inch of its life. that being said they are an awesome car.

ebay, ebay, and pipe.

+1 for the local zed economny. and IF in the unlikely event there is something wrong with them, you always always have a point of contavct who will actually care and get it sorted, rather than the dipute resolution centre (read "dispute acknowledgement centre") on ebay and some bloke who couldnt give 2 hoots about it.

and another zed goes the way of the turbo, come join the turbo ranks. Lert us know hjow both builds go.

2 elephant and a symbol..... fall on you

Those commenting should really either be buying, or asking questions, or posting constructively or positively. negative comments on the gear or the price are not appreciated by anyone. Personally I think that is a bargain. RB anything will require different mounting etc etc etc etc that will run u into more dollars than this will. Good luck with the sale. the new owner of an L28et powered beast will be very happy.

i could also go on to say it is the devil.... but good will suffice in this case good pickup there Scoota G

for minimal maintenance, there is not much that beats a 1990's to early 00's car. you are in that period between old and alot of stuff breaking, and new, where the computer has absolute control and you cant change the spark plugs without NASA approval. MX5, camry, scooby, dualcab - all will serve you well. I really wouldnt want to get anything too old, cause then you have to start getting into replacing the "long term consumables" like diffs, and uni joints, and interior bits, and electronics. thats y we have zeds so we can play with all these things when we dont need to get straight to work without thinking about whatever in the car.