NZeder

Sonic test the L26 block if ok bore to 86mm and fit L28 piston on top of what you have = L28 as the rods and crank are the same on the bore is different Nissan in the day when the blocks were new would not sonic test to take a L24/L26 block out to 3mm over so it should be ok, I have seen 2 L26 made into L28 in this method here in NZ

Both my 90mm bore L28 have been based on early N42's not the very rare early N42, I am saving this one for later. You can tell the very very early N42 (highest Nickel content of them all) by looking at the oil filter area. All apart from these early N42's have 4 bolt holes around the oil filter area some are tapped some are not. The ones not tapped are the better N42 to get but the best ones are the ones without the shape or space for the 4 bolt holes - they are very rare I have only found one in all my years of searching and it will stay in my collection. To be completely honest if you are going to build a 3.1 I would recommend just going to 88mm bore and make a 3.0 stroker you can get same power if you spend the $$ in the correct place in the head. The 88mm will allow you to run large valves etc get the head to flow enough for the 3.0 and all the power you want will be there and you don't have to go all the way out to 89mm thus allowing you to go that far if a rebuild is required in the future. A stroker will cost $$ so don't go cheap with the KA24 truck type piston. Get a good set of forged units, good bearings, balance and crack test etc and you will have a strong engine. The stroker will give you more torque and a turbo will give even more torque. How much power are you looking for? What is you budget? How do you want to get to your target power? Turbo or NA? These question are all important when building a L6 engine. If you want NA and big power better have a big budget and don't expect anymore than 14MPG. If you want big power and don't care if it get this via turbo or NA then turbo might be your best option but this is still going to cost a bunch too, EFI, ECU, Fuel system upgrades if on a Carb'd car etc. Both of these would also require (well I would anyway) more woh to go with the go. So brake upgrades will be on the list and budgeted for too, then suspension etc. So to do either correctly I would not expect change from $20K - yes it can be done cheaper but not to the level, engine $10K, suspension $5k, Brakes $3k, other bits $2k and all that is on the low side it could be double that too - depends on how much you can do your self or how much is new vs second hand etc.

Are you sure about the webbing - I know that the factory turbo engine was based on the F54 block. I believe the statement about 3.1 and N42 is correct and the earlier the N42 the better as the blocks have a higher nickel content = stronger and can take a larger bore. In Japan I believe they only recommend the F54 be over bored to 88mm any more they JBWeld the blocks water jackets. So this might be due the webbing differences or just thinner walls (ie larger water jackets for the turbo design ie hotter = keep the block cooler)

240z clocks can be repaired the issue is a cap that causes them to stop and then making sure the new cap is glued down so it does not fail like the original unit.

I am using Firefox and IE 7 and on the front page with FF under the new Mazda RX3 blog is not picture. But when in IE I get just a box with little red x in the top corner on the same page = I think there is a picture there that is not getting displayed. But all drops down etc are working in both with the quick tests I have just done - this is without signing up/creating an account which I have now done so will test this later too.

I don't have the suspension in my zed so I am not sure if there is any misalignment with the diff just yet but looking at it from under the car it looks about right, and I think I can move things around a little on the mounts,block to get it just about right. My car is a 76 260z 2 seater and also it has been on a chassis machine at one point in its life after a large rollover at the track back in the late 80's by the previous owner so when you look at the work done to put the car right I think they might have gotten it straight (in fact my brother/panel beater was happy with the car when I purchased it stating it was done correctly) So maybe there is some differences between a 240z chassis and the 260z chassis (well there are lots if you have owned a few zed, 70 240z, 71, 240z, 73 240z, 76 260z 2 seater, you get to see the difference between the model/chassis/evolution etc) as the CRS mounts were for a 260z. Here is a pic I got from the last owner of the damage done back in the 80's (sorry for slight off topic)

check page one - both myself and Zedman240 talk about CastleMaine Rod Shop mounting kit - I have modified mine (ie taken the standard CastleMaine Rod Shop mounts) to use a different isolator from the standard 240z/260z isolator. I also did not use the CastleMaine gearbox cross member instead opting for a custom unit that I made using the standard mount as the base. They are in the middle of updating their website - here it the link http://www.rodshop.com.au/index.html But if you visit the old site (on the right above the contact us button on the new site) you can see the mounting kits they do and EM81 - RB30 into 260z. The difference between a RB30 and RB25/26 is the block height they mount the same way etc. Hope this helps.

I have had a few things send to NZ from them, good Japanese L28 timing chain, adjustable cam gears, chain guides and tensioners etc. Good to deal with and does a lot of brake upgrades too for those on the right side of the ditch.

There is a little valve in the rear t-piece under the car in the rear of a 240z (not sure about the 260z) this is were the prop valve is and this needs to be removed as it will keep line pressure to the rear brakes which is required for the drum setup but not with a disc setup. Well this is what we have found on the 240z were have converted to discs on the rear. The valve was removed from the inside t-piece and the brakes were better (a tricky job be worth the effort - or you could replace with a t-piece that already has no valve in it).

Nice that is all the cars in the Nissan Heritage collection here is what I think he is looking for http://press.nissan-global.com/COMMON/HERITAGE/database/en_chart.html A chart of the Nissan/Datsun that have been built Now just need to find the same for Prince, Toyota, Suzuki, Mazda, Subaru, Isuzu, Hino, and all the other smaller companies that have now long gone. This might give you some info on the Hino history. http://www.hinosamurai.org/Contents/welcome_e.html

Here are lot more pics of the same car. It is a RB30 bottom end with a Rb26 head and their aim was 380ps Here are some of it at a car show outside and driving (well doing a burnout)

You have the choice when you order them as the fuel rail changes based on what injectors you require. I have both the 11mm and 14mm fuel rails but they also do a hose tail rail so that covers the lot of top feed injectors. Now given that I have the RB26 manifold I can tell you that looking at it the injectors for the RB's (well the 26 at least) is in the same place as the DCOE TB on my setup so I guess you could also use a RB fuel rail too. I have checked the spacing of the DCOE on my RB26 manifold and they are in the same place as they are on my Japanese L6 intake manifold so in this case it would be possible to use a RB fuel rail on this manifold with the DCOE TB's. Now this might be the case with all L6 intake manifolds as other might place the TB's closer together but the distance between the DCOE flanges is approx 40mm given I can't get my calipers in there with the studs in the way. Hope this helps.

Good to see Oz now get TG too, we have had it in NZ for years, I missed it when I lived in Oz for 2 years those shirts are NLA, I tried to find one when that show aired here in NZ about 2 months ago. I did find some z hawaiian shirts back in Jun 9th that day after that episode of TG here in NZ http://www.hawaiian-shirt.net/hawaiian_shirt_mens_01.htm and http://www.mauishirts.com/nissan-z-collection-hawaiian-shirt.html

No mine but thought someone here might be interested in these http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Other/auction-169313858.htm here is a pic

Having owned a set of OER carbs I can say they are a great carb, I have had zed with triple webers, dellortos, and Mikuni's and the OER have been the best of the lot. Reason are - they are designed as a race carb and can with stand blow through set up if turbo is your thing. They take Weber jets and tubes but have the better idle circuits like the mikuni's. I also believe someone here in NZ flow tested a 45 OER vs a 45 weber and the OER flowed 63cfm more so that is a good thing for performance.

Looks like standard aftermarket 6 allen key fitments to me.

If you are referring to this pic Then this was not posted by me. And I believe this is a shot of the 15x8 RB with a 16x8 RB-R. These are the same rims I purchased and posted here http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2761.msg21549.html#msg21549 Maybe this will help clear it up for you. Pic of 15x8 RB from the inside showing the thicker mounting flange. And if you look at the attachments in my first post = this one http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2761.msg21549.html#msg21549 you will see that on the silver ones = 15x8 RB's you can't see the wheel studs but on the 16x8 RB-R the hyper black ones you can = flange is different and you can see the difference in the spokes between these. Also look the bearing cap there is a major difference between the two pics I posted. So I think when looking at Rota RB or RB-R look at the fronts and the bearing cap or wheel studs this should tell you if you are looking at a RB or RB-R. I hope that helps clear up some of the confusion. Also the RB-R are not available in 15's from what I can tell. The RB-R are in 16, and now 17's along with RB in these sizes too.

Weld is ok I have seen a number of E88, N42's all with weld around these areas of corrosion you are talking about - a number of them race cars that see high temps too and never a problem. I would be more concerned about the heads hardness for any performance application. Re the N42 injector notches they should be fine - however my head guy just welded them up when he knew I was running triples - again a race type setup so this was also done to aid in the flow.

The E30 was from the L24 off a 240K I believe the valves will be very small vs that of a N42 = might not be enough flow for the larger CC of the L28 block. So you will be up for a valve job at least - I would take both head to an cylinder head specialist and get an experts opinion - they can cc both heads to work out an approx CR for a given block setup too.

Need the extra length to kick the header out and down - it would have been nice to do that but it just did not work out that way as the tail of the header ended 1/2 way through the floor. When I collect the other standard set I might see if these can be modified differently to put them in the same location but without the extra bits of pipe at the flange. The other issue was the first pipe as the set I had modified was already modified for the RB26 head (ie different flange) and this was already almost too short to get the lower nut on the stud. However with the standard unit it looks like there is they are longer to begin with so I might be able to modify these as I wanted to do in the first place and that was take a 5mm (at the bottom) slice/wedge off the pipes at the mounting face to get the angles the same. I will let you know once I see the standard unit - it is with a friend in the other end of the country currently. Re the hug the block - they do that already the collector of the inside pipe almost hits the block I needed to get them as close to the block as possible at this point so they would not hit the chassis rail. I guess on the plus side they do look like 432 standard header setup with the extra pipe see here

Having owned both RB and RB-R not in the 17" but I believe what has been stated is correct the difference is the bit behind the spoke. This change in mounting face changes the shape of the spoke. The RBs have a thick mounting flange ie the wheels nuts are much much deeper into the mag where as the RB-R the wheel nuts down sink into the mag and stick out a little. I could not install the centre caps on the RB-Rs on the fronts as the bearing cap would not allow it. I had the RB-R 16x8 +10 - I have posted pictures on this site before please search and you will see them. The 17" versions look to be different again and this does not surprise me remember each new rim size = new casting and the manufacture can change the spoke between each different rim size ie 16" the spoke is not a long as the 17" so maybe the longer spoke then start to curve again? I don't know I can only tell you that the 16x8 RB-R had a flat looking spoke and again go back to the first post I put in this thread to see the attachments. Also if you check the attachments in my post you will see both have about the same amount of lip (and I can confirm they are the same) So with the flange thicker at the back the spoke must curve more to result in the same lip for the same width rim. Again this is clearly shown in the attachments I posted. So I believe the curve of the spoke is related to the width of the rim, style ie RB or RB-R and the lip. I believe the 17" version were requested with more LIP therefore more curve. I think it is best to wait and see what Ben finds out from the manufacture - however give the pictures on the web ie at hybridz.org you can see the shape and style from what others have already purchased. So with that in mind I have a few different shots/angles of the RB-R in 16x8 +10 that I had installed on my 240z before I sold it. I am happy to put these up on my website if there is enough demand.

I will keep an eye out for you. Here a pic of the standard RB25DE Fujitsubo header that I got for $200 they are $2100 new (depending on yen to $$) as they are ¥165,900 then add shipping, fees etc $200 was a bargain which is why I purchased these when I spotted them. If you compare with the modified version you will see a new O2 bung as the original one is right were the TC is so this will be blocked off. You will also see the extra bits in the flange area and the tail section to change the exit under the car.

Update on the header. I have had the standard Fujitsubo RB25DE header modified to fit for my installation. Now as these header were already modified from standard for the RB26 head I can't be sure that if this modification changed them from stock. Anyway the angle at which they left the head meant that there with chassis rail issues as in they hit the chassis rail. My panelbeater had already cut a hole in the floor and altered the chassis rail by the time I turned up to tell him I would get the header modified - well he created more work for him self as one the header was modified this was unnecessary. I just picked up a second set of these headers in standard form from our trademe.co.nz (our popular auction site) for $200 which is a bargain given all the stainless steel they are made from. Anyway pic time (there are lost more now on my website as this location http://nzeder.net/album_cat.php?cat_id=18) The finished header The clearances The modified bits And installed

For that are interested here is a thread on hybridz that shows some of the 17x8.5 +4 installed on a 280z (aka 260z with ugly bumpers) also looking the pictures looks to have stock standard suspension ie 4x4 look http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136846

One listed on ebay right now see http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-FAIRLADY-Z-FRONT-GRILLE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em14Q2el1318QQhashZitem310070010613QQitemZ310070010613