NZeder

if you knew my project you would not say that - it has been off the road for 10 years so far but there is light at the end of the tunnel now that I have the $$ to complete the project after selling my other zed.

Well done nope the RB26 has different intake mounting setup so I have to use this little manifold first which does make it easier to make a bolt on adaptor. But your weld on setup will do the same thing I still have 3 x L28 and my original L26 + my RB30E and other RB26 head so I have lots of engines I just can't get rid of the old L6's in case I want to race the car in a different class that does not like the idea of the RB as a S20 replica or as close as I can get these days I don't have the 30+K for a real S20 engine.

here is pic from the Tomei Website which shows were their metal gaskets for the Rb26 head go. You will see the little manifold I will be using as the one that goes next to the head before the standard 26TB's I hope this helps.

Well as I have 2 x RB26 heads I am using the RB26 manifold and making up an adaptor to change from the 26 throttle body bolt pattern to the DCOE pattern. The DCOE have a 90mm centre to centre for the throttle plates and with my weld on flange that I have (purchased from Tweakit.net in Sydney some time ago when I purchase the EFI hardware DCOE TB) there is next to nothing in the centre to centre of the standard 26 TB spacing it is the bolt holes that are different (maybe 91mm). So I have ordered my 5083 Alloy (read marine grade) plates today - 20mm thick x 120mm high x 200mm long (3 of them one for each TB) I will see if I can find a pic of the little 26 manifold that I have/will be using for this task - as I have dropped of the manifold in question ready for the making of the flanges/adaptors.

Cool - the bottom is a copy of the Tomei metal TB gasket which is larger than the actual manifold/TB as they diameter of the TB is 44m and 45mm at the manifold. In fact if you rotate a DCOE flange (ie the top one) it looks like the bolt holes are in the same location. So basically I will make a single flange/adaptor that will bolt up to the RB26 manifold with counter sunk allen bolt this adaptor will also have the DCOE bolt pattern on it with the DCOE studs locktite in place. I will make the flange/adaptor 12mm-15mm thick. Regards Mike

Hi John, Thanks for the pic - that looks like Steve's RB30-ZED old car so I assume you are the new owner, that was an excellent purchase you could not build that car for the price he was asking. A very good and wise purchase indeed.

Yes and no, yes to the engine mounts and no to the gear box mount as I did not what that big bulky gearbox mount so we are making a new one. Again I will be using an Energy Suspension captive/interlock type mount this time the chev gearbox mount. We are yet to make this mount will do this in the weekend. Gearbox is RB20DET unit.

I assume so given the bottom end is a RB25DE block. I just been looking at a number of pics of RB installed in 240z/260z look to see if others have their engines in the same location. Trying to find pics of other RB installs with the Castle Main Rod shop mounts but most are US installs and they have the steering wheel on the other side and the all seem to have the engine lean over more to our passenger side. So then I was looking for other OZ/NZ installs to see what they look like. I will know more about the TB room in a week or so when I remove the stock 26 stuff and installing my DCOE setup (once I get that complete but for the test install/fit it just might be a mock up) Also if the moderator want to move my post to the members projects please do so. EDIT: attached pic might give you a better idea on the room on the intake side.

Ok this is what I have been up to tonight The question about the header and would they fit ? The answer is almost they are fowling on the flange at the floor but only just. You see the engine mounts have been modified for the captive engine mounts and this has raised the engine 5mm from the standard castle main mount. So if this was not done I believe there would be no issues. Having said that I plan to install the RB30 in the future so that will lift the head 38mm from where it sits now so I am going to see if I can get the header modified to lower the flange. Anyway here are some pics.

You want any oil that has zinc phosphorus in it as it is required for the older style tappets that our older L6 engine have in them. I you use a modern oil ie synthetic they usually don't have this = you are putting extra were on your valve train = parts will wear out faster. I recommend Penrite HPR either 30 or 40 depends on how thick you need it.

Talking of sounds here are some of RB??D and RB??DE cars in Japan. The first one is a C10 Skyline originally just a GT with L20a Engine now with RB engine running triple carbs Now the same car but this time upgraded to tripe DCOE throttle bodies Now the RockyAuto build S30 with RB power with triple DCOE carbs. I have somewhere a copy of Skyline (C10) with a 3.1L L28 running a stainless steel exhaust system and I must say they sound almost the same as the Skyline above with the RB in it. The sound might have a lot to do with the use of Stainless Steel, remember that most RB turbo on the road usually have an aftermarket manifold made from stainless so does this make the so call RB sounds?

I agree not that keen on the wheels but a very tidy and original looking car. Not too many left with the tan interior these days most change that over. On interior I have now seen/heard of 3 240z here in NZ that were write with red interior now that is not that common. One of the good things about that brown car is the fact that it is brown (don't laugh) my panel beater told me if you are looking for a classic car to keep purchase one that was originally a dark colour as they don't rust as bad as the lighter coloured cars (he has restored many cars from Aston Martin's, Porsche's, many of the Italian marque's and some of the other British cars that some call classics)

Are they a progressive or linear spring?

Me I am not sure what to expect as my last 240z was a large, well they don't come much larger, L28 N42/N42 stroker built with forged cosworth pistons, OER 47mm carbs (new that I put on to replace the Weber 48mm, Japanese car must have Japanese Carbs right?), a Kakimoto header (again that I put on to replace the old locally made unit) and L14 rods. It was putting down close to 250HP on race gas, and with another head that I had built which had a much smaller cam (but well built ports etc), lots of work to get the compression ratio down to 10.5:1 so it would run on pump gas and it only dropped 20 odd HP so that was excellent on pump gas and such a small 230/230 cam. All that was on the same hub based dyno. Here is a pic of the engine bay of the 240z but I am now looking forward to the RB project to see how well it will go in N/A form with the Japanese engine then later with the RB30/26 that we will get stuck into.

I think you will find that the 240k skyline C110 tail lights are both the same size it is the chrome surround that is larger on the outer unit which makes it look larger. I have some C210 JDM lights that I plan to install in my 260z, I went for these are they are the right period ie 1976, are from a Skyline to match the RB/Skyline power that I will be putting in the car - however as I just want the car back on the road I will look at install these at a later stage. Here is a pic of the lights that I have.

Ok found an old link that might be so some use, if you know Japanese, anyway these guys do a Rb20/RB25 head to DCOE manifold see http://home.att.ne.jp/delta/ner/RB20DE.html

Gav you can't do it given I sold you my L14 rods given they are hens teeth you just must use these in a good L6

Not sure yet this is one of the reasons for getting the engine installed before the engine bay is painted incase we need to alter things a little - be it the floor or the headers Hell no Coby units are much much shorter and not made from Stainless Steel. These are a quality Japanese made unit they look like the Fujitsubo SuperEx see these claim to add 10HP to a standard RB25DE, these have be modified to suite the RB26 head as these have a different exhaust flange. And cost ¥165,900 which is $1700 AUD without shipping or local taxes this is one of the reason for purchasing this engine + and having another RB26 head is a good thing. Let just say I got the engine are the right price when you add up the parts. The Coby ones are like this (however this is the only pic I could find on the internet quicky, and is for the RB30E ie single cam, but the pipe length etc is the same design = not long enough for good performance up high in the RPM range)

Cheers Nato, I will get into the roof and get my RB26 head gasket set down as this will be easier to scan than the little manifold, I will then also scan the DCOE flange again as you have stated both with a metal ruler next to them I will do this in the next day or so. PM me your email address and I will send you the files as scanned, I will make smaller for posting on the site for others to reference.

Ok just popped out to the garage and took some very quick pics - I did not un wrap my RB26 manifold but this does give you an idea on the differences. 1. The RB TB mounting has the same bore and bolt locations but from the left and right they are just rotated around - you should see this in the pics. 2. It should not be too difficult to make a bolt on adapter going by the look. 3. I recall seeing an old Alfa or like which had an adapter that did just this - I will make a template out of MDF or the like and visit the local weber guy that I know that has one of these Alfa adapters and see if they are the same. 4. If the Alfa adapter is different I will take the MDF sample to an engineer/CNC to get some made up.

The RB26 heads came with triple TB's remember however they are not a DCOE bolt spacing very close but not quite the same. With the RB26 head I got (I actually purchased a RB26 engine just minus the turbo manifolds and the plenum/TB's) the little manifold that the standard TB's bolt to so that will make things easy for me. Also the other engine has the plenum and TB's I plan to make some adapter plates to change the bolt spacing from RB TB's to DCOE so I can mount up the EFI Hardware TB's. The bore spacing of the RB TB's is almost the same so close it is not funny so the adapters will also be ported to match this too. I will be using bungs to block off the standard injector holes in this manifold (ie no injectors by the head) and use the injectors by the TB's plates on the DCOE TB's I will take some pics later to show the difference between the DCOE mounting and the standard RB26 TB mountings. EDIT:RE the CMRS (Castle Main Rod Shop) mounts I have modified mine to take a different mount not the standard Z mount. I am going to be using a Energy Suspension universal mount for a Jeep. Why? Well these mounts are captive ie if the fail they have an interlock design so the engine will not leap around. I chose these mounts/isolators as they are: 1. Captive 2. A firm rubber/compond is used 3. Are the same hight as the stock isolator/mount 4. Easy and cheap to replace $23 USD vs $70 USD for the stock Nissan With the mod to the CMRS mounts my engine will now sit 5mm taller than if I was using the their unmodified mount. I weled on another 5mm plate to extend the mount to pickup on the wider isolators ears. This plate has been mig welded and mig plugged I will know later if the engineer is happy with this.

I am going RB on my 260z 2 seater (long term custom project). I have picked up the following items. 1 x RB30e 1 x RB26 head (minus manifolds) 1 x LINK ECU (NZ Made see www.linkecu.com) 1 x RB20DET box 1 x RB20DET sump from a 200ZR (new imported from the US) and pickup 1 x Castle Main Rod Shop mounts (imported to NZ via a business trip to Melbourne) 1 x Set of H-Beam rods for the RB30 bottom end 1 x ARP main studs set (RB30) 1 x ARP head studs set (RB26) 1 x Tomie 1.0mm metal head set (RB26) 1 x Triple EFI Hardware DCOE throttle bodies tapper bore 50/48/45mm However I have now picked up an engine that I can put in the car while I get this RB30/RB26 hybrid finished. I will be doing NA not turbo as this is what I want to do. So here are the details on the engine I picked up to get the car back on the road while I build the above. RB25 Block, RB26 head, Tomie 1.0mm metal head gasket, Top Secret tuned ECU, Stainless Steel headers (need to be cleaned), HKS high lift cams and HKS adjustable cam gears. In the weekend I dropped the pants to swap over to the ZR sump and the rods are stock Nissan units with a lot of work, ie lightened, shot penned, etc Pistons (looking from the bottom) are near new units. This engine came with a RB20DET box fitted with a quick shifter. I have not removed the box yet to see what clutch setup is in there but given the other work done I can only assume a good twin plate. I should have this engine installed in the car by next weekend so my panel beater can check things over before finishing up the body work/engine bay. So there you go I will be installing a RB25DE sort of well RB26DE too (not sure of the crank and rods in the RB25 block - does anyone know the partnumbers and were I can find these looking from the bottom without pulling the engine apart. I know L6 and can tell a L24/L26/L28/LD28 crank but looking for the partnumber cast on the crank but I have no idea on the RB's). Then later I will be upgrading to RB30DE with my RB30E and RB26 head I have attached some pics of the new 25/26 hybrid engine as I delivered it to the panel shop a few weeks ago - I will get some more now it is sitting on a cross member with the ZR sump on (sump will come off again before going into the car as I forgot to take the Nissan gasket/sealer with me in the weekend) Sorry for the long post - also I will install the EFI Hardware Triples and the LINKECU on this 25/26 engine.

Take the bore out to 89mm (3mm over) then get hold of a LD28 (Diesel engine - came in the Laurel's that are imported here in NZ not sure about OZ, we get them for between $50-150 for a crank only or sometimes the whole car for $100-200 which include a long nose R200) The LD28 crank is 83mm vs the L28/L26 79mm. Using L24/L16 or L20a (pre 79) rods (all these rods are the same if the later L24/L16 units are used which have the 9mm big end bolt vs the earlier 8mm) I believe it best to use a good custom piston not the KA24 pistons as these are heavy and have large rings not ideal for performance IMHO. You can get larger I have build L28 block with 90mm bore and owned one with 90mm with the LD28 crank = 3.2L now if you were to take a LD28 offset grind to change the stroke some more maybe 85mm then a 3.3L could be possible but at the 90mm bore the walls are getting thin Hope this helps.

I get the feeling rust is not the issues with this car - the work has been done by the sounds so it is interior and mechanical that needs sorting = excellent purchase for someone in OZ someone PM the man and purchase the car sounds like a good buy IMHO

What are the colour of the Watanabe's? Hmm how much to ship to NZ.....hmm