NZeder

I think they might be lighter than my Watanabes however I am not comparing apples with apples as the Rota's are 16x8 with a 225/45/16 and the watanabes are 16x8.5 with 225/50/16 so there is extra weight in the wider rim and more rubber in the tyre but I would be going my memory of the last time the watanabes had no tyres on I would say they are so close in weight that there would be next to nothing in it

Ok what did I start Re the question about the weight - that is one of the best parts they are good and light and well made. Mine are the HyperBlack. I am very happy with them here is pic of the from last weekend track time

Pauly, you can't just put the offset without let us know the rim width as with a 7" rim +15 will be fine the factory alloys are 5.5" with +18 but +15 on a 8" rim will fowl on the inner guard at full lock and will require coilovers or a small spacer on a 240z but will not fit a 260z but again not sure about 17" but this is the case with 15" and 16". If you have flares you will need a - offset to full them (don't use anything more than a 5-6mm spacer is what I recommend - no spacer is better) I would save the $$ for the rims that will full your guards and give it the look you want don't go for something that is not quite right but the price is right. Depends on how big your flares are but you could visit hybridz and join in on the group buy of the Rota RB-R in 17x 9.5 -19 which is running they will work out about $1300 landed in Oz including taxes I would guess my RB-R 16x8 +10 for the 240z were around $1200 NZD landed all up including taxes.

The max recommended backspace on a 260z with stock spring perches is 4.5" or 114.3mm. To get the backspace you can either measure this (actuate) or you can calculate the approx BS using the offset and the rim specs. To measure the BS you need to a square (one of the builder ones that is adjustable will be best and with a ruler on it too will help alot) and a straight edge. Best to measure with no tyre on the rim then lay the rim on the ground with the face down then lay the straight edge over the back of the rim. Take the adjustable square and use this to get an actuate measure of the mounting face to the straight edge and this is your backspace. To calculate the BS using the offset and rim specs use this as a guide. I will use your +35 offset and assume this will be a 17x7 rim (common sizing these days for these FWD offset rims) Rim = 17x7 Beed to beed width = Rim spec + 1" (the 1" is an approx for JJ rims other are less ie 17x7JJ) so this gives us 8" beed to beed. Working in inches this is how I get the approx BS Backspace = (Rim + 1" for beed to beed)/2 +(offset/25.4) BS = (7+1)/2 +(35/25.4) BS = 8/2 + 1.378 BS = 4 + 1.378 BS = 5.378" BS = 5.378 x 25.4 BS = 136.6mm = way too much = need at least a 20mm spacer maybe more Now if you use Toecutter's rims at 17x8.5 -6 and 17x9.5 -19 here is the BS calculations Fronts = (8.5+1)/2 + (-6/25.4) Fronts = 9.5/2 + -0.236 Fronts = 4.75 - 0.236 Fronts = 4.514" = 114.6mm = ok Rears = (9.5+1)/2 + (-19/25.4) Rears = 10.5/2 + -0.748 Rears = 5.25 - 0.748 Rears = 4.502" = 114.35mm = ok Now a 240z can get away with more BS as the spring perch is in a different location (1" higher up on the fronts the rears are not an issue on both the 240z and 260z and you should be able to fit almost 5" BS with no issues) however I am not sure about 17" rims as I have only checked 15" and 16" rims on my 240z and 260z I hope this helps with understanding BS and offset a little better.

The 280zx (HS130) has the same ear spacing as the S30 = 3.5" which is also the same as some porsches so the toy calipers will bolt up. The question will be the offset/height so what rotor will work with the setup. So it might only be a caliper upgrade ie the offset/height might = stock vented 10" rotor. Best thing to do is get a set of calipers or see if someone will loan you one - take some measurements then browse the DBA catalogue for a rotor that will work etc.

Ok I have changed my rims I now have some Rota RB-R in 16x8 +10 offset. I will post some pics in the next few days (after I clean the car after this weekends track day) my 240z still has stock spring perches but with lowered springs and they clear (just in the front) with no guard mods required with a 225/45/16. These RIMS will not fit a 260z front without a spacer as the spring perch is 1" lower on the 260z and will fowl on the rim/tyre. However if you have coilovers it might be a different story. Again I will post pics in the next few days. But here is few pics when the car as on axle stands a few week ago. Pic also shows front spring and rear spring clearances. Also the fronts at the time had a 6mm spacer install but they clear without the spacer - I will post a pic of the clearances without the spacer when I take more pics

Gav it depends on your cars suspension setup. If you search and search hybridz you will find some have issues and some don't. Most that have issues with the Z31 shaft length are with early 240z. Most of the guys in the US that do Ross's conversion do them on 280z which we know is our 260z and they have different rear suspension (ie taller and this might change the angles etc) and they only have to flip the CV cage to ensure they fit without binding. A mate here in NZ has does this on his 71 240z (race car with lowered suspension which might also play a part - not many of the US guys lower there cars a much as us downunder as most of us build our cars for circuit/track stuff and most in the US build for drags - those that have had issues seem to be those in the US that build cars for circuit/track work) and we found that flipping the cages was not enough (well it was after also grinding the end but we are talking 2mm from bind = not enough) and to install the CV the rear suspension on the short side needed to be undone and pulled out to get the axle in. Anyway long story but 1 custom shaft was made for the short side and the normal short side shaft was used on the long side without flipping the cage/race. Graedat what did you need to do to your shafts?

I will keep my eye open for you, I will one day pull the LD28 71C box I have to confirm 100% that it does have the larger lower bearing housing. Now thinking about the UTE/Truck comment - I know the D21 Navara have a short tail 71C box however the engine is a Z Series which is effectively the (well my Navara UTE anyway as it is 2.0l) L20B bottom end with a NAPS cross flow head installed. However the issue is that these bellhousing even though they have the same bolt spacing they are leaning in the wrong direction as the Z series leans towards the LHD (passenger) side of the car where as the L series leans towards the RHD side. So with this in mind and the LD28 find that I had here in NZ maybe there is a L20B or LD20II (this is a 2000cc diesel 4 cylinder belt drive engine uses the L20B type block = same bolt pattern for the gearbox) from a 720/D21/820 UTE that has the bellhousing you seek. Failing that you could just modify the 260z/280zx unit like I did - a visit to a good mechanist to open up the lower bearing hole and mill the rear of the housing (I also found that on my R32 box there was an oil hole that was on the stock RB bellhousing to pass oil out to the front cover and then back in via the bearings - Nissan must have done this for a reason so I had the mechanist put it into the 260z housing too) Good luck with the find - in the mean time I will see if I can find some pics of my modified 260z bellhousing (I my have them on the home computer not this work laptop)

Simon, I modified the 260z bellhousing to take the larger bearing rather than installing the smaller bearing on the S14 (R32 box in my case as I have a 260z, but now that I have a 240z as well, that was originally fitted with an A box = leaver further back than in the 260z so the S13/S14 box is a better choice for gear leaver location - however I have 2 x S13 boxes that I will be using for the 240z, one as a spare) I also had to have the 260z/280zx (ie B box) bellhousing milled at the back of the same bearing hole 3mm to clear the larger gear set that is in the 71C boxes. Now back to your question about the other bellhousing you have heard about - I think I have one - I purchased a 71C gearbox from a late model LD28 however I have not pulled the box yet but it does look to be a factory setup as the box does not look like it has ever been apart. So I would look for a LD28 bellhousing - I also heard that the last 71B LD28 boxes had the larger bearing so I think this is the one you will have heard about too. Hope this helps. Cheers Mike

Came across this ad today, which has me a little confused - didn't the japanese 240s have a twincam 2 litre six, and L series motors only for export? Yes and No - the Fairlady Z was sold in Japan with a L20a engine with twin SU carbs, the S20 engined 432 (the one you talk about = rare and low numbers produced) with DOHC 2000cc with triple solex carbs, then in 72 when the local tax/registration laws changed the HS30 aka Fairlady 240z as sold in Japan. Then there was the ZG or as internal coded within Nissan as the HS30-H which again was a Fairlady 240z and badge as such. JDM can be tricky to understand but they did have the 240z with the L24 and twin SU's

yes the stock valve are too small = lack of flow = loss of power don't do it unless you plan to spend $$ on the E30 head.

E30 = L24 head with very small valves and CC was installed on the 240K and other L24 Nissan/Datsun sedans of the day. Need a lot of work to get any performance from = not worth the trouble + they are usually old and soft better to get a later N42 as these will have the larger valves, newer and not as likely to have been through as many heat cycles = softens the alloy and sometime too much.

Cool thanks for that - wow yours must be getting close to one of the last 240z.

In RHD export markets (ie EU, NZ, AU and other parts of the pacific) the last chassis number going by the parts catalogue (so I can't confirm if this is accurate but it is a Nissan book) shows HS30 101537 as the last production number/chassis number but how this relates to the AU market who knows as these figures were for all RHD export markets as stated above.

I don't think the block notch thing is any issue unless you are running large lift or have the head shaved. Did you also know that an L24 L26 block is good for 3mm overbore ie takes an L26 out to L28 spec or put a L26/L28 crank into the L24 block and you have an L28 once bored 3mm over.

The 260z E88 have larger ex valves. You are correct they have same bore at 83mm however the L26 blocks (same casting number P30) have notches on the ex side of the bore for extra clearance for these larger valves. So if the factory did this they did it for a reason. So I would research this more if I was you.

I met Mike when he was over in my part of town aka Auckland NZ - nice guy and I too get his updates via email. He even took photos of my 240z and 260z. I refer to his site all the time when looking at the VT brake upgrade and his Hopper Stopper upgrade. I am thinking of going down this path for the 260z, the 240z will have 4 pots on the front as it will be the track car but the 260z will be the road car and one day with the RB30DE that I am/will built so Mike and I have a few things in common, first name, a 240z and 260z 2 seater in the stable, 240z will be a track car while both are planning RB conversions in the 260z's however I am going the N/A path. So I keep an eye on his progress on the RB conversion all the time

Well we run 3 to 3.5 psi on our triple race cars here in NZ but that does depend on the carb too as webers don't like more than 2.5 to 3 psi. So 3 is our magic number.

wow only $300 for the dash reskin - I am on the wrong side of the tasman here in NZ you are looking at $750 for a reskin from http://www.dashboardrestorations.co.nz/contact.shtml Re the repower thing - I too have been thinking about a RB30/26 DE conversion and I have all the parts for the job (apart from the custom forged pistons I will have made) - however not sure if I will do it just yet might be a project for later just get the car back on the road would be a start. If you are not too fussy about a 260z 2 seater vs 240z then a 260z 2 seater might be the way to go as they do appear to be cheaper (less made but cheaper). If you like the 240z tail light look just pickup some 240z tail lights and installed these into the 260z - this has been done by many people over years and is/was popular in Japan. If you do want to do the RB conversion thing I would defiantly get a 260z 2 seater that is 75+ as it will have the stronger chassis, suspension/stub axles and if a factory manual it will already have a R200 in the rear. If you get a 240z and do the RB conversion thing you will want a R200, 260z stub axles etc so save some time and get a 260z from the get go. If however you want to build a race car I would get a 240z the earlier the better = lighter shell (not as stong but if it will be a race car you will install a full cage = strengthen the chassis up anyway). But then if you are going to be racing hard you will want the R200, 260z stubs etc + extra weight etc. Horses for courses. As you have stated you want it to be a daily driver so I would go for a 260z 2 seater as it will have intermittent wipers, slightly more refined ie more modern door lock system etc. This is why I have a 260z 2 seater that is getting built as the daily/road car and the 240z as the race/club car. Hope this helps.

My point is what parts are you after? Once we know this the direction can be set. Performance parts? Stock parts, restore parts, panel parts, engine/mechanical parts? More info is required rather than just parts as different parts might come from different suppliers etc. I myself have purchased a lot of new stuff from Nissan, then there is the USA and some stuff from Japan it all depends on what you want.

What parts are you after? New have you tried Nissan you will be surprised what they still have.

Guys you are starting to sound like (dear I say it) American's as in we are the only country that counts. Now remember that the production figures vs sales figures will be different as you are going by AU only sales figures of approx 2000 260z 2 seaters. The production figures (remember these are not confirmed as genuine production number just the chassis numbering orders that was used for given dates) I posted earlier (from the Last printed parts catalogue) are for all RHD Export markets so this includes AU, NZ, UK, EU etc basically anywhere that was outside of the JDM that was RHD. In AU you might find that the 260z 2 seater was imported in smaller number than the 2+2 this might have been the public choice or Nissan marketing back then to try and appeal to a larger market ie families so even if you wanted a 2 seater they priced them too high so you when for the 2+2. If you look at the US market it is hard to find a 2+2 260z or 280z or even a 280zx they loved the 2 seater. I believe the same can be said about the NZ and UK markets with more 2+2 sold than 2 seaters yet the chassis numbering system shows similar numbers in total, or was this just the number system and has no reflection on the actual numbers of cars produced (more likely). You see Nissan might have started a RS30-000001 and hoped to make RS30-005000 by sept 74 but what if the demand for the car was such that they only got to RS30-002431 (just a number I made up) did they continue in Sept 74 with RS30-002432 or did they move to RS30-005001. We will never know unless we have some firm numbers from Nissan (unlikely as stated earlier Nissan Japan did not keep these records so it will only ever be a best guess) or if we could find every RS30 ever make - highly unlikely or at least see if anyone has one of the number listed for the end of a given run ie RS30-005000, RS30-010000, RS30-015000, RS30-021000 - we know number exist between these ones but do these one exist at all. This might help prove that 21384 shells were produced (note I did not say sold but produced). If however we can't find any of these chassis numbers then it is conceivable that say only 10000 ish or less might have been produced and the chassis numbers and production numbers are not the same. Either way you look at it the RS30 ie 260z 2 seater could well be the rarest of a single model run of the export market S30's (remember in the JDM there are some other rare beast known as the Fairlady Z432 and 432R with the R the most rarest of rare beasties)

The only problem for me to get my RB head out to take pics - I first need to move one of my L28's that is in front of it and the engine crain is not here at home anymore (l28 is just on the floor) I will see if I can drag it out of the way in this weekend - you see this weekend I was putting my zed back together (still working on it) so let say this is not high on the agenda - when my zed has been down for 3 months (ok a few of them I was not home but OS on business)

The RB gearbox is the same length as the L24/26/28 B boxes so no drive shaft mods needed (unless you have an early 240z that was fitted with the A box originally - this assume the engine/gearbox end up in the stock location like the 240/260z if however the engine mounts over the engine back then your gearbox will be back = shorter drive shaft required. That is about all I can offer for now as I have not done a RB conversion.

I will do the pic thing later this week or in the weekend (will try and do it after work this week one night) Re the finding of RB20 head here is an idea - given that people put the RB25de or 25DET head on a RB30 block (the early 25DE no mods just bolt on - later vvt head needs mods to work and the 26 head works with no mods too) so pickup a RB30E head and work with that (guys that upgrade don't want the RB30E head so you can pick one up for next to nothing). Then once you have a plan and if it going to work then pickup the more costly DOHC head