NZeder

Here is a post I put on our site when I was selling the RB 15x8 - here you will see a number of pics of these installed on my 240z (I can also confirm that +12 will not fit on a 260z you will need the +4 to clear the fronts as the spring perch is lower on the 260z) you will also see a shot of the Rota sticker on the rim that states these are RB not RB-R and you can see the banana shape to the RB rims. see http://www.zclub.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=768 And I found the pic of these after they were sold to Andy so here is a pic of these installed on his 240z

I also have more pics of both installed on Zeds if that helps too - I sold the 15x8 to another local (here in NZ) zed owner and I have pics of these installed with tyres on his car. And I have a number of pics of the 16x8 RB-R on my old 240z. Here are some first my old zed with the RB-R 16x8 I can't find the pics of the 15x8 RB but I will keep looking on our zclub.org.nz as I recall seeing a post from the new owner of the rims I sold him - I will update this post when I find a link/pic.

I can comment on this first hand as I imported RB and RB-R here in NZ. I purchase the RB in 15x8 +12 and RB-R in 16x8 +10. And you have it the other way around the RB is on the left and the RB-R is on the right. Here is the rims that I imported - now all sold. The silver are the 15x8 RB and the hyper-black are the 16x8 RB-R

Most of the guys on Classiczcars.com in the 240k section are in Australia - and a few of them own more than one so maybe you want to talk to one of them as the might know of one that might be for sale or at least let you know if one is about to go onto the market. Hope this helps. Cheers Mike

I am going to use a cable (the linkage that I have has both an cable and leaver options - I will use the leaver option to mount the second return spring (required for cert here in NZ). I am thinking about solutions for a cold air box - one thought is to have it made of Polycarbonate (ie lexan) to show those trumpets - would be a shame to hide them away. This way I can run a pod type filter up the front - feeding into the trumpets. The question is the mounting - I guess I will cross that bridge when I get to it.

Ok all this work Zedman240 is doing is making me want to get my car to the same stage. So tonight I spend a few hours in the garage getting the TB shafts the right length for the RB26 manifold - so here are the results. Can't want to get these on the car - however that will not happen until after the engine bay is painted.

Looks good - my measurements place the trumpet a little closer than your but still lots of room. Can't wait until I have my car home so I can work on it in the evenings currently only one night a week and the one day in the weekend - when I can get into the panel shop to work on it.

hmm I wonder how much it would cost to get a container and ship this to NZ

Great news on the oil pressure let the wiring fun begin - I am yet to get that far but can't wait to get stuck in. Re the space you are correct - I visited the workshop and took some measurements and looks like there will be approx 65mm of space between the end of the trumpets and the strut tower so just enough for a good air box (recommended is 45mm from the trumpet face)

I did on mine

Yes guys in Japan do this. What they do is put hard springs in the rear so the wide tyres don't hit the guards.

Here is tonight's efforts - I now need to visit the car and measure from the head mounting face to the strut tower to check that distance but I think they will fit - however I might need to shorten the trumpets up a little so I can put a cold airbox around them. Now I just need to have the throttle shafts shortened so I can mount all 3 TB on the manifold.

Not usually a fan of the 2+2 roof line etc but what you have done make the car look great

Intake pics now.

Looking good - I took some photo's today too I picked up the headers the other day after a number of trail fits and changes but here the results - extra pipe added to change the angle of the original pipes. These new pipes/extensions are 30mm long on the bottom and 35mm long on the top thus lowing the header and kicking it around away from the chassis rail. I also picked up my RB26 manifold to DCOE adaptors too so in the weekend I might look at mounting up my DCOE TB like you have done ZedMan240 Also if you look at page 4 you will see a pic I posted a while back with the 200zr sump on with the cross member visible. I don't have one of the setup in the car and the car is in the panel shop so can't just pop out to the garage and take a pic for you.

No argument - I will try and layout it out for you. The S31 is basically the same body as the later 260z 2 seater shell. ie taller rear strut towers, lower radiator support panel, raised floor on the passengers side (for a cat to be installed on some markets ie USA - remember the same floor pan was used on the 280z), longer and taller chassis rails, different front inner guards, different dash/console aka 260z style, non burst able door locks and therefore different shape to the door around the door strike/lock. And the 260z/280z style tail lights (well for the home market the S31 style tail lights ) Also all S31 left the factory with R180 diffs and L20E engines so the car should have the EFI style fuel tank too. The car looks great and I love the pics on the UK GTR forum. You can see some of the S31/later shell items in these pics, ie the taller rear strut towers, twin hatch struts, the dash and console, tail lights just to name a few. I am biased as I have one of these later shells but in the RS30 aka 260z format. I look at it this way Nissan changed things as the car evolved yes they are a heavier shell (has to be with the extra metal in them) but that should make them stronger = good for higher HP, however for a race car light weight is a better choice ie 240z aka HS30 or early Fairlady Z aka S30 shells are the better option. In Japan you will find lots of Fairlady Z (S31 shells) with 240z/early Fairlady Z tail lights and G-Nose kits too. Usually this is due as the S31 cars in standard form are generally cheaper, but once you do them up, overfenders, L28, triples, etc the cost of the cars is up there if not almost the same a S30 shell with the same mods = it is the aftermarket work that add the value etc + old cars in Japan are going up in value all the time.

Well they do make them in different sizes that do here is some pic of my last 240z with Roto RB-R 16x8

By Special in my above post = custom made aka Kameari units - talk to BenZed see this post in his thread http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2043.msg20057.html#msg20057 I don't think you will get taller than 3.154. I believe 3.3 were in some auto's these should be easier to find.

I believe they are correct - these same number/colours are listed on other websites.

I am not sure about the fronts on the early 260z but 260z that have the larger strut tudes 55mm not 50mm will have the spring perch lower on the fronts = long spring required. The rear struts will be the same length as the 240z units as Nissan had not changed to the taller strut towers by then = still using the same length as the 240z = 240z springs??? The only thing I would say is that make sure you can swap them if they are wrong.

you tried Nissan - I needed to get a new one (red) after mine got a flat spot on the plastic gear (tend to do that when metal gets into the speedo drive and stops it from turning) price was not too bad either.

hmm lets see E85 = 70-83% Ethanol. Ethanol = corrosion = got a lot of $$ to replace your fuel system on your zed? Even new cars usually only support E10/E15 due to the same reason corrosion of the fuel system. It comes down to costs of the anti-corrosion fuel system you require. Stainless steel (the good stuff) for the fuel line, petrol tank, if EFI then special injectors, and if carbs then maybe custom/special jets etc. Drag cars and race cars that run 100% Ethanol have such fuel systems and this is usually controlled via the class rules ie Ethanol permitted to be used = team go to the expense etc. see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcohol_fuel about 1/2 down the Methanol/Ethanol secion is the info about corrosion.

Well mine arrived today in NZ - so if you guys in Oz have not got yours yet I assume any day now

Nicely done - good result.

Don't forget the Japanese OER carbs - ie SK replacements ie New Mikuni's with Weber jets and tubes. I believe a guy here in NZ has flow benched these vs new webers from spain and the OER flowed 63cfm more than the same size weber ie both 45 units. This is one of the reasons I had them on my late 240z road/race car.