NZeder

60-70K for a genuine Fairladyz 432 - bargain assuming the body is in good nick and engine does not need work (parts can be hard to get and pricey) One day I hope to import a FairladyZ 432 into NZ - and if I won lotto this weekend - I would purchase this one (if it checks out and is genuine) and ship to NZ in a heart beat.

you just made me take a closer look at the bumbers - I will point out you might not have seen those bumper before on any 280zx before. I say this as looking at the rear bumber you will notice the lack of the little overriders in their design - this tell me it was a Fairlady Z factory fitted with a L20e not a L28 all the JDM Fairlady 280z (they were not badged as 280zx in Japan) had the same bumpers as the export market (I am lead to believe anyway) ie little overriders in their shape see here for an example (my old NZ new series II targa 2 seater as I purchased it) Notice the little overriders and you are correct it has non series II type bumper too - so looks to be one of the first targa top series I cars (which make it a later series I car) with series II tail lights fitted and a Fairlady Z (not the Fairlady 280z) so shorter and ligther (shorter as it does not have the overriders)

They were made in Red, Green, White and the Orange and the Sand colour too. All were early bodies which this looks to be ie vented hatch and different rear guards without vents. As stated the grill, and wheels are also correct so this is either a very good replica or a genuine item but hard to tell without better photos and more info - I would guess around $120K AUD if genuine ie 7,500,000 yen

You guys in Oz got the vented bonnet but not all markets got them I had to purchase one new from Nissan for my 76 260z as it was not standard and it has the D latches etc - I just wanted one. The cars here in NZ with them fitted standard are all Oz imports not NZ new or JDM models, or UK imports

looks like a series 2 from the tail lights and the fact that it is a targa top. So it will have a rack and pinion setup if it is a series 2.

Given the engine is the L24e it will be the same base engine that the guys in the US call the Maxima L24e (these L24e engine where used a few JDM models and some other export countries) you might want to look into these carefully as it is my understanding these are like the post 79 L20e and have a smaller journal for the big ends, also they have a smaller little end 19mm vs 21mm (I think the big end journal is 49mm vs 51mm) So I would go with the L28 personally given this might an odd ball L24 that you might not be able to use or swap the cranks/rods easily etc.

we are talking about a almost 30 year old model so maybe the ones I have seen were recovered at some point in time but I have seen 2 here in NZ - but the leather was only on the seats and they were standard 280zx style seats - never seen it on the 2+2.

carbs make the later engine sway easier and if I did not have the EFI ECU, Throttle bodies (was going to use these on my L30 engine when I build that) this would be a simple RB25DE install with a custom manifold like Zedman240 has made. Never know might just install carbs on my RB to begin with so I am getting low on the coin and carbs will be easier to install no fuel system mods, ie surge tank, wiring changes (reads EFI wiring), dyno time to get the ECU turned correctly (I know I should do the dyno for the Carbs too but I have had 2 zeds with triples carbs in the parts and my turning was not to bad vs the dyno turning).....hmm might have to think about that one when I get the body back. Back to topic at hand - good on you for going for it - I think if the car only has the superficial surface rust then upto $5000 sounds like a good purchase - not sure about the oz market as I have not lived there for 5 years now but a car like that would be $8,000 here in NZ if the rego was on hold (we can put the registration on hold while we restore/rebuild our cars or not use them on the road for a period of time, mine has been like that for 10 years - and if I did no engine/brake/suspension mods it is just a matter of one check and paper work to get it back on the road. Now as I have modified lots - now I have to cert all the mods as things have changed since I took the car off the road ) Anyway I think from the photo's seen so far it should be a good purchase long term. The blue interior is not common and for an early car (under HS30-01000 which by look it is) let along a standard 240z - I think the blue was only available with white on the outside much like the red interior (also rare) Keep us updated on the potential project and don't give up - infact visit one of the meetings that guys arrange and see if someone can take you for a drive in there 240z with a mild L28 to 1. So you know what they are like while you are working on this project, 2. Know what the good old and strong L6 is like (I am sure I will miss the L6 and the RB will be different better? who know different yes - I would also talk to BenZed on this site has he build a toyota 6 cylinder powered 240z but now has a modified L28 so he can give his views on different engines. But I can tell you that the L28 power race cars that I have either owned, driven or been driven in you can get a lot of old school power from these engines. My last 240z was powered by a L28 bore and stroked (using the LD28 crank) to almost 3200cc and it made 230HP at the wheels on pump gas with 10.5:1 and a lot more on race gas with my other head and 13:1 - all NA no turbo's involved at all. Hell I am sure there are guys here that have put a turbo on the L28 and can tell you the power you can get from these too - 450+ (I recall a very worked engine in Japan, drag car, making 1000HP out of a turbo'ed L28) Anyway enough from me. Back to you let us know how you discussion go with the current owner lets hope it does at least get into someone (maybe yours) hands who will return it to the road - another zed back on the road has to be a good thing

Cool keep the journal coming - now waiting to see what you did with the brakes - I wish I have kept one of my 280zx 2 seaters....

In this case you might be wrong with that statement as the 280zx did have leather seats as an option on the 2 seater I have seen a few models like that - but they were all JDM version not the NZ versions.

If you want to upgrade the brakes on the 280zx there is a guy here in NZ who has changed his mind on his brake upgrade (I would guess going for something better or different ie floating rotors maybe) this stuff is all new and never been used only installed and removed again. See here for info http://zclub.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=1171 But they cost him over $5000 and will sell for $2500 that is NZ peso too

There are few of us who are or have put Nissan RB engine into them - still not a cheap exercise as you have to upgrade the fuel system from carb setup to EFI, then other parts of the drive train etc if you don't want to spend the $$ then pass this up. And I can tell you that I have spent way more than $25000 over the 10 year my project has been going on and my brother does not charge me much as I am family and I still only have a body shell in primer and lots of parts waiting to go into the car. And during this time I have purchased a number of other zeds as I miss having one on the road - and if my car is not finished this year I think I will purchase another one in the future (I have problem....I love S30's)

I also agree with the commend above about the cars vintage I would say a early 71 for first rego and a build date last 3/4 of 70 - and it will be between HS30-00450-1000 for the same reason stated above. It has the early console = A type Box original installed but has the later hatch, rear guards and steering wheel these are obvious non early 70 itmes on this car + I don't think the first cars were available with the blue interior but I could be wrong on that.

The cost of resto will depend on what is ok and can be restored without replacement (if the parts can still be had new which some can) and how much you can do your self. I know how much $$ I have put into my zed and I still have just a body shell (and my brother is my panel beater - that is why it has taken 10 years for the body work) Areas to check for rust are (as already pointed out + some extra areas - most are obvious places were dirty/grime sit) Floors Chassis rails under the battery box dog legs lower sections of the front guards lower sections of the doors heater chimney (under the dash were the heater chimney meets the firewall) lower radiator support panel and the sides on the radiator panel were several seams join. Slam panel under the hatch hatch hinges (if a very rusty car) and rear wheel arches, and sometime around the tail lights I think that covers it - so that are the problem areas and some will cost more to fix that others ie the heater chimney can be tricky to do correctly ie dash out, un spot the wiper panel (whatever that area is called) so you can get good access and rebuild/repair with new steel etc So if it only has surface rust then it should be a good purchase but it will still need a good strip and repaint and if you want a job to last then better prep work = time = $$ then better results can be achieved. So how much to offer - if a rusty pile is all those areas above then start at $500 if only surface rust then maybe $1500 and work up from there (you still want a bargain right) I guess the $25000 mentioned above relates to the following. Keeping it all original and rebuilding the original engine (if that is what is under the bonnet) then you could sink $10,000 into the engine if you purchase many new parts and have a pro do the work and pay for chrome, coating ie gold passivating all the correct clips/leads to get close to factory again. If however your aim is to just rebuild then the cost could be different - you see to me restore = $$ ie return to original or as close to original as you can get. Rebuilt = less $ but still have an excellent result if done correctly.

those were the days - real noise, smells, oils etc....I love going to these meeting. The F5000 are great, even the little juniors are fun. Last year there were are bunch of junior cars/drivers from EU and they had a ball in NZ and OZ. So I think the events are getting more and more oversea's interest. I wish I could have done like you Peter but those were the things my Dad used to do when the GP cars of the day used to race at Ardmore with drivers like Sir Jack, Hulme, McLaren, Clark, Moss, Gurney, Hill....the list goes on. Looking forward to seeing more PIC guys and I will do the same when the meetings are over here

wow only every 2 years - I guess we are lucky here in NZ we have the Tasman Revival series every year (well I know that has been the case for the last 3 years) - I even took my old 240z race car there last year to 2 of the 3 events (one in Auckland and there other in Taupo) If you guys get the chance to go along and watch you will see some great cars

Yes shipping will kill it as they weigh 20kg and are large - 20kg is not so bad but with that size too I guess that is why they cost so much in Oz. Keep up the good work - and maybe if I had my car home from the brothers workshop then I would be too busy to visit the forums too

I don't think you will find a LD32 crank - never head of one - LD28 crank, I have one and can get them easily here in NZ unlike OZ were they will cost you $800, I can get them from $50-300 with most around the $150 mark but the shipping is the killer. Having owned the following zed 1976 RS30 aka 260z 2 seater (the one I still have the first zed I purchased) 1970 HS30-00016 240z early 1973 HS30-1xxxxx (can't recall) 240z 1971 HS30-012xx (can't recall the last 2 digits) 1976 S31-005360 aka Fairlady Z 2 seater with 2000cc EFI I know the differences between the models and the early cars are different very different, some of the things you have pointed out, no tool boxes, vented hatch, different centre console, A type box, different diff location, different badging, different inspection flaps, different shape to the front guards around the inspection flaps, the 2400cc rocker cover on the HS30 models and the 2000cc rocker cover on the early S30 aka Fairlady Z, different SU carbs.....the list goes on and on You can find the 2400cc rocker covers from time to time on ebay in the US and yahoo in Japan but expect to pay some big $$ these days. Also some parts you can still get from Nissan, however most of the time they don't like to check with Japan if the parts is still listed but sometimes you get lucky. re the hand brake cable I am sure a number of brake/clutch places can make a new inner for you if you still have the outer. If not I recall seeing some for sale on a parts warehouse site in the USA - if you like I will see if I can find the link again. Cheers Mike

What build number is it? I used to own chassis number HS30-00016 (here in NZ but the car is now in OZ) and it was not a 1969 model as it had 1970 seat belts, 1970 plug leads (assume close to original), and a date stamp/quality check/sticker in the glove box also 1970 - however this might have been when it came to NZ not when it was manufactured ie installed NZ belts etc. As I don't have this car anymore and have not owned for close to 10 years now I am only going by memory.

see here http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/suspension.html See question 11.

on the rear it also depends on how much you want as stated by Lurch when you lower a zed the rear gets some negative camber - in fact on a mates racecar it is too much so he has tops to move the camber positive so he can take out some of the negative.

correct not a fan of a sunroof but for those $$ I would have even purchased it and shipped it to NZ for that (assuming it looks as good as the pics tend to show it)

lol that is a good one alright.

True that as I know here in NZ many of 2+2 has donated their front end to 240z/260z 2 seater race cars over the years.

Well yes and no - no as that body existed as the Fairlady but then yes as the GRS30-xxxxxx chassis number was never badged as a Fairlady Z. Now the 260z is something different as Nissan did release a Fairlady 260z and it was badged as such a Fairlady 260z and it did have the GRS30 or RS30 chassis however they were all recalled as the new L26 which powered these cars did not meet the new Japanese emission laws so the recall was to remove the carb'ed L26 and retro fit the L20e (ie 2000cc EFI L20a based engine), there might have been one or two that did manage to evade the recall. I believe the new chassis code S31 was used to show that the engine now meet the emission laws - the small handful Fairlady 260z (both 2 seater and 2+2 versions) that were recalled had their chassis number re-stamped during the repower etc so they all became S31-xxxxx or GS31-xxxxx So Nissan did release a Fairlady 260z but they were recalled and renamed/badged as just the Fairlady Z and the L26 removed and L20e installed. I hope someone might find this info interesting - and if I am incorrect in anyway please correct me as I do want to get the story correct.