NZeder

lol shame we don't have any racing here in NZ (that I know of)

very well put. I was talking about just that the other day with a race car fabricator. A new Toyota Corolla at a guess will have a faster 0-60mph and top speed than our 40 year old sports cars, and more than likely do a lap around any track faster too. But that is not the point is it? Drive a Corolla around the track then a s30z without knowing the lap times ask the driver which felt faster..... my pick would be the car that is more raw, more alive, ie the car that had more sole and character the s30z. Is there anymore that needs saying.

Correct CAMS is the issue as FIA there is the document 3023 for the 240z which including all its extensions shows all the parts needed and under FIA Appendix K all these parts an be fitted when making a period correct race car to group 4 spec. Then said car can apply (does not mean it will be approved) for HTP papers. Will CAMS accept FIA HTP papered cars in Group Sc??? Again FIA HTP does not mean a car can run at a given event that is still up to the event/grid organizers and that is one of the walls we hit all the time - it is Japanese and to many of those we race against don't see a 240z as a Classic/Historic as it is Japanese...well that is an opinion what I said an MGB is not Classic or a 911 that again is just an opinion. I am not down with the CAMS rules but if you can't run FIA approved 4 pots then an Ford Escort should not be able to run AP closed back calipers (forestry or montecarlo depending on spec) or Steel bubble flares (can't be anything else but steel as that is what is down on the FIA papers for the Escorts) as these parts were only available under Group 2 which was for Modified Saloons back in the day much like FIA 4 pots etc were for Group 4 for the 240z aka modified Sports and GT cars. By modified = standard series production cars (aka Group 1 for Saloons and Group 3 for Sports and GTs) that are then fitted with factory options (or parts as approved/listed on the FIA papers) ie Steel bubble flares (Escorts) or FIA approved Sumitomo MK63 on vented disks for the 240z. These modifications be they made by the factory or you installing the parts after the fact make no bearing on FIA rules of the day aka Appendix K today (or for the period in question Appendix J for the years the 240z/260z/280z we are interested in) However I feel CAMS have got their rules sooo soooo wrong. Using their rule of "sale documents" is not right. First and foremost FIA homologation papers based on the groups deemed correct for the local CAMS groups. Example FIA Group 1 (for the period we are concerd with) = Standard Series Production cars as approved in the config approved under FIA Group 1. So that is a bog standard Escort made in the numbers required to qualify for the Group 1 rules. That does not mean a 911 sold with a sales document to Bob with a 3.0 engine (when that standard was 2.7), or wide fenders and 16x8 rims. The FIA papers are trumps. If however CAMS allows Group 2 and Group 4 approvals under their local group x (whatever x might be) then this is for the modified cars based on Groups 1 and 3 aka Bob's 911 with the bits however only if number made met the rules of the day aka at least x made/sold/could be made to the spec in question. If a car does not have FIA approved papers from back in the day then sales documents need to come into play however a single 1 off sales document of Bob's 911 does not mean all 911's were build or sold like that so should never be allowed under Group 1 or Group 3 based rules. Group 2 and Group 4 sure then all 240z group 4 mods are in too. The issue with all this stuff is opinions and egos come into it - they should not but they do.

They are not cheap but what about the twin SS setup from fujitsubo? See here http://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/prods/detail/000000000000000979/00000000000000002324/00000546

When I installed my Ford fuel pump module into my tank, the top of the tank had a 3mm ring welded to the inside of the new top. This has the studs welded to it. Like you I made my own seal however my top ring again is custom laser cut from much thicker steel again 3mm plate I think. I think there are pics on my build thread......not updated for way too long....nothing new to report other than taking some bit for the race car.

Very cool I have always liked the p410....there was a nice black one with polished mags for sale in NZ a few months back looked great.

maybe the reverend was quick enough to put his name on it and it will get his makeover.

Kevin owns 2 outstanding 240z. I am sure hs30-h can tell us more about Kevin's cars but the there have been a few magazines that have covered his barn find and rebuild of the ex works 240z. I believe the one in the video is his non works car but one that has rally history going a long way back in the UK.

A local racer here has a holinger 71b dogleg 1:1 5th dog engagement box (I think all new internals) might have to see inside that box one day and see if it can be replicated.

OK so I studied the parts catalogs that shows the selector setup. This is what I have worked out. The 3 selector rods are for each bunch of 2 gears. In a standard 5spd pattern this is how they are laid out. Top rod = 1 & 2 selector Middle rod = 3 & 4 selector Bottom rod = 5 & reverse both of these are in the tail if the box The dog leg is like this Top rod = reverse & 1 both in the tail of the box and in the reverse order to the standard box. Middle rod = 2 & 3 Bottom rod = 4 & 5 That is comparing the 63a dogleg selector controls to the 71b selector controls. So it could be possible but complete new internals will be required. Ie new top selector rod and leaver, new reverse gear and new first in the rear and reverse order to stock. The same in the front ie new selector rods and forks and all new gears in the ratios required keeping the 1:1 as 5th gear. So a lot of work

Thanks for posting the picture of the x432 gav. $60,000 AUD if the S20 engine can be fixed......hmm where did I put the winning lotto ticket.....thats right got to buy them first

lol 7 years off the road....mine has been 17 years off the road.

Worked for me just the second link showing more pics does not work for me. I think the s20 engine has dropped a leg aka blown up as it also states a 3.1 l6 and r200 available to the winner for extra. So it might be genuine but finding a z432 s20 might be hard as the gtr s20 block is different and if it has put a leg out of bed a replacement block and maybe head will be required.

OK thought I would open this discussion some more. So I picked up an fj20 box that I will pull apart soon and use this as the build for a strong track 71b box using new gear set. I used to own (and one Datsun I should not have sold...cool and very different) a Datsun 160jsss 710 that had a factory fitted dogleg 63a 5SP. The layout is like this R..2..4 |--|--| 1..3..5 I liked this dogleg layout and think it is great for a track car as 2345 are mostly used gears aka in the H pattern. This box was an overdrive box not a 1:1 5th. I might even see if I can pickup one of these 63a doglegs to see if the selector setup can be replicated in a 71b box as they have a very similar tail/selector design. Does anyone know if that is even possible? Cheers Mike

Not a big Seinfeld fan but love the cars just watched the Chris Rock video and I have to agree with Jerry that car has to be the most beautiful car ever made - lets not talk about its faults....just look and admire and think how that changed the market - well created a new Genre of "The Supercar" the "Mid Mounted SuperCar"

Great news. I think I am one of the winners of longest build....I like you have owned my zed since I was young 20 not 19. I also have owned a number while the first one has been off the road and like you always 2 seaters including 280zx Mine has been apart so long I forget how long but I think 16 might be 17 years now. Any looking forward to see the pictures. Cheers Mike

Pete would some of l series roller rocker help, not cheap but they are Australian made so supports another local business.

I have purchased from that seller before - no issues at all. I have seen many of these here in NZ - I have one in the race car. A lot of the JDM imported 2L powered Fairlady ZL that were imported into NZ have them.

Well unless you are lucky enough to get hold of the Lseries C box from a LD28 - you still need to swap the bellhousing for on to the RB20DET or SR20DET box as the LD28 C box is like a normal B box inside aka thin gears etc. But the bellhousing does not need any mods. I have purchased 3 of these boxes over the years for these bellhousing - all from JDM imported Laurels here in NZ.

I believe the 8 historic muscle cars shipped over from NZ will be at this meeting. They are build differently to the aussie cars but the differences sort of level things out. NZ cars have to be series product body work ie all steel as factory spec. Engine have to be period material aka iron heads blocks but can be up to 12.5% larger and run avgas/racegas so high compression. 15" rims Oz cars can have fibre glass panels, alloy heads but less compression and limited over boring. 15" rims So that does level them out a fair bit I lead to believe.

Well I say good on you Dave, pleased to see the zed bug is still with you and that you are keen to pickup another one for a make over. Even though you have not keep any of your past zeds it is good that you enjoy the journey of the make over process. I am sure the owners of your past zeds are more than happy that you like to transform and not keep them. Good luck with another zed quest/build.

For those interested here in a Video on youtube of some of the cars that compete here in NZ in the HMC (Historic Muscle Car) vs the Oz Trans-am series recently from QLD. One thing I would say is I doubt the NZ cars have those kind of HP figures given they must run all iron engines, stock steel body work. Many of the NZ cars above are the same as those I posted earlier in this video where my good friend Ricky gives them a hurry along in his 240z. Hope you guys enjoy the action.

Yes as that was the fix. A custom 5th (it is noisy) in the ratio required - I think 0.88, that and making sure the rear nut can't back off which is the common issue causing 5th to slide up and down a bit and smash its self to bits too. One common fix is replace the penned nut for 2 thinner nuts that tighten down on each other. As pointed out - only a 1-3 gear set 4th and 5th are not changed so you are stuck with what the box has and most 71C boxes that is a crap 0.759 - unless you get the 0.83 5th from a NA RB20 box IIRC - or just go custom 5th that is stronger and the ratio you want/need.

The only advantage I see is it bolts in where the old B box is with no cross member changes but you get a box with a better 5th gear design and wider gearset. Once you have the FJ box installing the Kameari gearset gives you a good strong close ratio box with a good 5th. Having said that we have seen 5th gear still fly to bits in the 71C boxes = changing gear while over a bump/car unloaded = too much loading on the gear = bye bye 5th.