C.A.R.

Yes. Also, polarity for fluxcore is positive earth. Have you got the earth on the correct terminal?

Remove the feed wire & blow compressed air down the liner. Fit a new tip. Fluxcore (Gasless) wire is shitfull stuff - it should only be used for industrial Sub-arc welding.

90% of the interior is in - just the seats and seatbelts to go. Fitting the Inertia reels is interesting... I'm waiting on the S/S windscreen trims to come back from being repaired (stone strikes) and polished, then the new F&R screens can go in. Radio install is next, then the wheel alignment & corner weighting can happen followed buy the LCR road tune...

Your car - do what you want.

Yes, it's been done (R33 box but same / same) but it requires a cut & shut bell housing. @1600dave has done something similar with a S15 6-speed behind his L18...

Happy 2022 everyone I hope you've enjoyed this build - it's a far cry from what we started with.... Evan will be collecting it shortly as it is his plan to finished the restoration himself. I'll update this thread when it's completed. Cheers, Locky.

Is it CAMS Log Booked?

That is just a shitty 1k Acrylic that'll fade & break down over time. And tell me: In all practicality, when would you ever remove and repaint your suspension arms? Answer: Never.

No high end restoration shops I know, use powdercoating anywhere on their restorations. Powder coating is not durable. And if you get a chip - which is easy with powder coating - it's bare metal underneath, and rust starts very quickly buy moving UNDER the powder coating. Next thing you know, a chuck of powder coating comes off to expose a rusted suspension member underneath. 2k is far harder and more durable, and wont be as easily chipped.

I will never help you again if you powercoat the suspension parts. 2K ONLY!

They are made of a very stiff zinc coated steel, but they can be welded without any problems. The suction puller wont work - the dents are to big. The slide hammer in the drain hole will work, and you might have to drill a hole in the top and use a length of rod to tap the dents out. I'd personally focus on the bodywork first - the tank can be done anytime.

Well it's a new home, so.........

I forgot to mention that LCR finished the Twin 4 Screw Hitachi's a few months ago:

Bout time you posted ere.

Have you tried an exhaust shop? Auto parts stores?

Nissan?

The RH A-pillar was still in good condition (apart from surface rust on the inside), so we kept it. However the bottom section was rusted out, so we decided to replace it. It's a slightly heavier gauge in 1.2mm, so it's a little harder to work, but we managed to fabricate up a replacement section in one piece. We then media blasted inside the cavity: Linished back and given a temporary coat of silver zinc.

You say that.................................................

Next job on the list was the rusted out toe boards / firewall areas: You may also notice that we tried our hardest to to keep the factory panel dimples... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- With the drip rails fabricated, our attention turned to the roof frame itself and the extensive amount of structural rust - a part of the rust repairs that was going to be the trickiest... Fortunately I procured a rear cut that had the complete roof frame plus some other panel sections we needed. I deemed this quicker and cheaper than re-fabricating the frame sections from scratch... So we added to the bracing by added some sections that picked up threaded holes in the roof frame, then carefully unpicked the roof frame, until we were able to fully remove it: At which point the replacement roof frame could be welded into position:

Exhaust hanger.

I'm saving up the required $ to finish it - I'll update this thread as it happens.

Small amount of parts from the US are also needed, which I'm ordering shortly. Still on the list is fit the carpet & underlay, fit & wire in the radio, fit a kill switch, wheel alignment and corner weight it, book it in to LCR for a road tune, then I'll drive it for a week or so to PD it.

You silly bugger Jon - why didn't you call Rob in the first place?!...................................................................

Nope. I just get everything from Ash at Moorabbin Auto Spares - he has all those parts on the shelf.

Both Auto and Manual RS30's & GRS30's had R200 diffs. Manual: 3.7 Auto: 3.54 ('74 RS30's - based on the late HS30 bodyshell - with Auto trans used the rare 3.36 ratio R200)