Ben
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Everything posted by Ben
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Are you sure it's an L28ET & not an L20AET? The former is pretty rare in Aus, the latter is still rare, but not as much so.
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I had a nolathane sandwich in my car for a few years - damn the diff whined at speed... Gone back to OEM for the moment, with a plan to upgrade to something similar to the RT setup if required. The auto is softer on the mount than a manual, but it shifts pretty hard - especially at full boost.
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You'll spend more time and money trying to get it to run properly than actually driving it (which is a non-sensical statement, but you get the idea...) The SC14 was from the 1G-GZE 2L, and there are many better options available these days. Heed those who have suggested even the 'old' M90 as a more viable path. And _please_ convert to EFI, the carburettors will give you nothing but an empty pocket.
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One word - "pallnet"
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They're not expensive to buy new, and not baked and likely to crack either...
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Mine don't I'd take some more recent photo's but the rear end is currently apart (well almost - I have a stub-axle nut that refuses to let go) for my Z31 CV conversion. (attached is one from 2001!)
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Our Miniature Australian Bulldog, Mizzi Our 3-legged black cat, Dobbon and Our 4-legged grey cat, Beejay (yes, he's on the roof of the Skyline...)
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There should be some more slack in the dash harness - its probably been tucked up somewhere...
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It is the kick down switch. She'll be a real slug without it being connected...
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Make sure you put a seal kit and rubber grease through them - otherwise the slides will stick. (also check the slide pins for straightness as they have been known to be bent...)
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Alan's right - bypass the ignition barrel and hard-wire it while testing (but make sure you only short the solenoid to the battery lug, not the block!. You could also try some water dispersant in the plug, but the contact assembly is attached from the rear and not exposed to the key slot. If the barrel is shot, then you can always use a couple of switches for ign and acc, while using the key for cranking.
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Careful there - this dizzy doesn't have any vacuum or mechanical advance assemblies in it. If you retrofitted it to a 'normal' L28E, you'd have only static timing...
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Lol - my bus has been off the road since '06. You've done a complete resto in the same time that I haven't even fixed a blown head gasket and upgraded the drivetrain! We should catch up sometime.
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I didn't do too much digging - just a google of the PN... I'm sure it can be retro-fitted with fancier internals (if required). But it would be perfect for a project requiring full ignition control, but not sequential/direct-fire - I had to lock up my dizzy in order to make the advance curve programmable.
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It was a good show (I notice that you don't have a shot of my DR30 in the collection ). The 2000GT is insured for $750,000, and the green 260Z was restored over 2 years (a good friend of mine owns the car). Adam (owner of RAW-240) has had his car in that trim for a few years now. AJD is coming to Sydney next month, so it up to all you N.S. Welshmen to make the Zeds proud!
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Yer, I looked up the part number and it shows up as an '83 L20AET. It looks like there were at least 3 different ignition systems in the 'L6T' motors - optical, reluctor and hall effect (trigger on the harmonic balancer). The optical one is the only one with a home trigger (and therefore suitable for direct-fire or fully sequential injection). I'll let you get back to selling it now!
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I'm not sure that's a turbo dizzy - it's a reluctor setup with no home trigger?? The 280ZXT/HR30 is optical, and is internally interchangeable with the Z31 VG30 PCB and trigger disc.
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No caller ID?
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If the resistance/temp curve is the same, it will work fine!
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That other one isn't a C10 GT-R tacho is it?
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One of the first electric mods I did to my 240Z was to bypass the dimmer... The old girl needs as much dash light brightness as she can get!
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We should have an informal social meet there - it's a good opportunity.
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From memory the washer nozzles are the same as 1600/180B
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Is having too big a brake master cylinder a problem?
Ben replied to neRok's topic in Brakes / Drivetrain Components
Yellow/green, exiting the harness near the starter solenoid wire (black/yellow). Note that I don't have this differential pressure switch fitted any more And I told a lie - the bleed nipples on my JB1419 are on the engine side, not the strut side...
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Is having too big a brake master cylinder a problem?
Ben replied to neRok's topic in Brakes / Drivetrain Components
lucky you - mine are on the tower side. PS The 2 brake 'distribution' blocks in the engine bay are bias and front/rear brake fail warning (the handbrake light will illuminate if a circuit has no pressure). Don't expect it to work - it's probably got over 30 years of gunk in it...
