Ben

Can you advise the casting # of the inlet manifold?

To answer the original question - there can be differences in the starters - the 280ZX had a reduction gear starter in the US (for ECU voltage stabilisation I hear) - I have one of these in my car. BUT the physical starter-flywheel engagement is unchanged. it was not uncommon to see 4-cyl starters on the 6-cyl motors because they were smaller/shorter and therefore easier to remove when you had too. The issue you are experiencing is unlikely due to a mismatch of parts, more a wear or failure problem - as highlighted by others.

Nah mate, she retired hurt with head gasket failure in June 2006... (Self inflicted - boost > fuel delivery) BUT... the engine is back together, with a fresh P90, and the R200 LSD is in too. But I digress, this thread is about your top effort. Keep it up and I look forward to a ride.

Have fun you kids, Mick the car's looking fantastic, you should be proud. (and I'm jealous that my old girl has been in the shed for 6 years!)

Nice work guys, that's the best 'Z' turnout at an AJD yet - in the past there's been about 2-cars tops. Unfortunately, I couldn't make it this year - the DR30 Hardtop had just run out of seasonal reg and the Z is still in the shed (yes, still...). Quietly hopeful that it might be able to make an appearance next year, if I can afford a new ECU before then. Greg, you need to take one of your cars, not Nicks '280Z'!

Don't forget - draw-through turbocharging REQUIRES a carbon seal to be fitted on the compressor side. Otherwise you'll see how fast you can ingest an entire sumps' worth of oil through the compressor housing...

The EFI harness is basically a self-contained system. From memory, you only need to interface a handful of wires into it to get it going; coolant gauge ignition power tacho output start signal (not sure if this is needed) fuel pump output (low current - used to switch pump relay) These are all present in a connector that is normally mounted mid firewall.

I ran the S12 setup for a few years, but now have the S12W (or is it S12+8?) on my car with Z31/DR30 discs and the MSA adapter kit. Pads are WRX/R32/R33 with a little bit ground from a couple of corners. FWIW if there's anyone that wants a set of S12 (solid) callipers and near-new 240Z discs - I have a set that are surplus to requirements (seen in the left of this shot): . They clear my new 16x7 8-spoke superlites with ease (but fouled the old 10-spoke design):

Expect to spend about $1000 per bumper to get them restored to a professional finish.

Mad Performance here in Adelaide is doing an SR turbo conversion in a Fairlady as we speak.

Not necessarily, but having an SR20 in a ladder frame chassis with wishbone suspension and front discs (but only if you get a 1600/2000) is a pretty brave move. You wouldn't be the first to do it though. An atmo one from an S13 would do the trick nicely, but there are a few mods to be done to make things like the gearbox fit.

ouch... There was a web page that Eric Neyerlin did way-back-when that showed a detailed diagnosis of stub axle failures. There is one just as you describe. http://www.zparts.com/indexes/inprogress.html (you may even find some pictures of my car on his site if you look hard enough!) http://www.zparts.com/indexes/featproj_index.html

Gareth, What were the circumstances of the breakage? I have run 240Z stubs since I got my car (until now), but in retrospect I think I should have upgraded over a decade ago...

The R200 is irrelevant. The bit that matters is that the companion flange must match the stub axle. 240Z flanges won't go onto 260Z stubs and vice versa. I highly recommend that you use the 260Z 27-spline setup.

If I remember rightly, the dyno couldn't interface with my MSD CDI, so RPM wasn't an option. I do know that we did the run from just above stall speed - say 2500RPM through to just shy of the rev lmit at 6000RPM. I'm afraid you'll have to make your own graph from the table, because kW/PSI/RPM is all I was given on the day :-) Rest assured that there will be some updated numbers - hopefully before winter, but no guarantees!

Don't trust an electrical sender - especially an old one. Put a mechanical gauge on it & get the real measurement. I've been told that 10psi per 1000rpm is a good thing.

Here's the most recent data on my Z. I've got the DR30 & Stagea ones here somewhere, but can't find them at present... The run was done in 2nd Gear since it's an automatic.

It looks practically complete, and I don't remember the last time I saw one of Nissan's 'other ladies' of that vintage for sale...

My 240Z was my first car - bought in early 1996. Practically a daily until 1999 (except for late 1997 when it got a turbo conversion) then the time came to give the body some serious TLC. It was off the road until late 2004, and then used as a weekender until mid 2006. It's been stuck in the shed since then , with a mortgage and 2 young kids it's not easy getting time to work on her. Speaking of ownership records - my dad still has his 1971 1600, his first car... Although it's now sporting an FJ20E and some other 'tweaks'!

Make sure you get paint under the radiator support panel top ledge and inside the foot-vent duct holes. There's that many layers of steel squashed together in some of these areas that it's easy to miss a spot.

Wouldn't a 1988 be a VLSD???

You have to use the right sleeve for the right cog - it is offset to suit the increase in tooth count. They're not expensive, been there, done that...

That sounds like a plan. I have a speedflow filter on the intake to my Bosch 910, but will be re fitting a surge tank, so things will get a little busier at the tank...

Obviously I stuffed up the part numbers of the carriers and will need to double check them. The pinion numbers are an old reference, so they could have been superseded. I will FAST them tonight when I get home and let you know. **EDIT** The 20-23T sleeve PN (32707-66300) has an alternate 32707-P3620 or 32707-C8301 The part number you have listed is shown as a 21T pinion, used in the 200ZR, R31 etc. But the number I have is shown with the same particulars, and neither supersede each other (go figure?!) The part number for the 16-19T sleeve is a bit of a mystery, but I came up with: 32707-R5620 There are several alternate numbers that work for the drive itself, but the numbers I've given do work with the FS5W71B and 3N71B gearboxes.

You'll also need the offset carrier if you're changing from a 'standard Z' cog. Nissan Pt # #T Color Ratio Gears 32703-78100 16T (yellow) 3.364 37/11 32703-78101 17T (black) 3.545 39/11 32703-78102 18T (blue) 3.700 37/10 32703-78103 19T (white) 3.900 39/10 32703-78104 20T (red) 4.111 37/9 32703-86401 21T (purple) 4.375 35/8 32703-86402 22T (orange) 4.625 37/8 32703-86403 23T (green) 4.875 39/8 32707-7800 16-19t Sleeve Assy 3270766300 20-23t Sleeve Assy