Ben

correct. I was running mine full-soft (anti clock), but with the potential for my new wheel/tyre combo to rub in the rear, I've wound them up to full hard (clock, about 2 turns).

http://www.efihardware.com/products/c229/6-Cylinder-Nissan-Datsun

Oregon is a nice part of the US - I spent a while there in 2001. No mention of 'K' on this page: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

That's a worry, since they were fitted to R32/33/34 and S13/14/15 cars as short-noses... (amongst others!)

look up near the coloured body/dash connector block adjacent the accelerator pedal - you should find it taped up to the loom with just a little loop of wire visible. **edit** hang on a minute, I'll go & check on my car - but it's not 100% guaranteed that it's the right place, as I've re-loomed the whole thing... Well that wasn't a bad guess - the tail light harness comes up from behind the accelerator pedal and terminates under the dash in a large blue and small white connector. The pump wire is exposed at this point and is significantly larger in OD than the other wires.

What a guess! Terry Russell, (Parts Manager, Grand Nissan), has been tending to my rusty old Datsuns' needs since 1997. It's good that we've got 2 dealerships that put in the effort.

Well, that dealership certainly hires people with the right attitude... It was 5 years ago now, but I went to my local dealer and ordered a new vented bonnet, vents, rain shroud and fasteners. At the time, it was all ex-warehouse in AUS. Johnny, who do you use? (My guess would be Unley Nissan)

/waves

Not that I'm in Sydney, but; http://www.mcgrathnissansutherland.com.au are probably your closest supplier. Whereas, http://www.grandnissan.com.au are mine

There are certainly some nice rides there. I've pondered trying to import a decent Fairlady S130 coupe, but it's not a practical option at present However, if I was fitting an RB26DETT to my C110, I'd probably have done some more work on the brake system than what appears to have been done on the silver car. It looks like the MC's never been removed (probably because the brake lines are rusted in!).

remove it, regrease the motor, and clean up the mess underneath it. take your time, and use plenty of WD40/CRC/RP7/INOX (choose your poison!)

If half of this is true, I'm glad I've used Haltech up to now... I've had a Haltech E6A in use on my cars since 1997 - on 3 different engines in 3 different cars. The only thing I had to do was get a ROM (firmware) upgrade shortly after purchase (the decel-cutoff was buggy), and buy a 4-cylinder injection loom for when I fitted it to the DR30. It's still going strong nearly 15 years later! My next ECU (for the Z) will likely be a ViPEC (very similar to the Autronic).

Ideally you'd run a filter on both sides of the pump (just in case the pump loses a bit of itself one day...). I used the original green power feed on my 240Z to power my Bosch 910 (via a relay) with no issues. At one stage it was running a Carter lift pump and HP pump (model unknown). And Roberto, the rust in the front 'wings' adjacent the headlights was a big problem in my car too - much MIGging was required to rebuild the area. What were the figures for the head on the flowbench? She's looking good - keen to cop an eyeful once it's built

/ontopic L20A rods = stroker parts /offtopic The silly season has got hold of some of you guys really well this year!

Twice-pipes are a period upgrade, but they are loud. They _will_ attract attention! It's hard to make an NA in-line 6 free flowing but quiet. Unless you install a rotary-muffler, or turbocharger - however you like to describe them

True story - only use the tacho output feed. I had my 240Z tacho modified with solid-state internals to suit the square-wave MSD output. I also have an MR30 tacho that I modified too - and that was already negative trigger, but didn't work properly with the MSD output

I'm using one (MSD-6AL) for the bigger spark only. The limiting is unused (ECU driven). Dizzy is L turbo (was custom locked up, hall effect).

RB30E are interchangeable. (R31 Skyline or VL Commodore)

That's what the FPR does - maintain relative fuel pressure, regardless of air pressure (a linear relationship). A rising-rate FPR doesn't work in a linear way, the fuel pressure rise is disproportional to the air pressure.

Go 3/8" or 1/2" for the feed and at least 5/16" (original feed) for the return.

A quick note - be aware that the LD crank runs slightly smaller journals than the gasoline crank (0.005" more bearing clearance, from memory). So... you'll probably want to get it resized to 1st-under (petrol) specs.

Same colour scheme as my dad's '73 (but someone had sprayed the interior of that one black). Nice looking ride, good to see the indicators still mounted correctly. There don't seem to be many '73's around, we are certainly in the minority.

Pity about the hole in the roof of #1001. Interesting speedo too - km/h... Seen worse, seen worse fully restored to fantastic condition.

IMHO you shouldn't drive it even if you get the L20AET ECU working on the L28ET. The injectors are way too small, and you'll likely blow it up the first time you give it the beans. Heck, I lunched my head gasket because my fuel pump was too small - it was ok at 8psi, but not 10... (I didn't hear any detonation, but it turns out that there was zero fuel returning to the tank)

Damn you guys posted with haste to this thread! There is no such thing as a JDM L28ET - they were USDM only. Get photo's of the engine number, block casting, head casting and what kind of triggering system is in use. The early turbo's had a N42/N42 or N42/P79 with crank trigger and empty distributor (no electronics). The 'S2' turbo had the F54/P90/optical distributor setup. If this donk is an L28ET and ex-Japan, then chances are its from a USDM imported 280ZXT. The JDM Fairlady 280ZX Turbo ran the L20AET. A T2 would be very average, sure it might spool up quick, but with a 2.8 it would run out of puff at 4000rpm (if that). T2 is Pulsar ET turbo (E15T) size, or about the same as a single from a 1G-GTE twin-turbo... My old N42/N42 L28ET ran a VG30ET T3 with a T4 compressor and over-bored turbine housing - low-rpm boost wasn't an issue. I would almost wager that it spooled quicker than a stock RB25DET does.