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Everything posted by gav240z
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The Ebay Thread #2 - Post Ebay Parts Here!
gav240z replied to XRQTR's topic in Parts and Tools for Sale
Carby Madness... L Series Intake Manifold Kit with Triple Dellorto 45 DCOE - $1,000.00 Negotiable http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/north-adelaide/engine-engine-parts-transmission/l-series-intake-manifold-kit-with-triple-dellorto-45-dcoe-/1037428388 Seems cheap... SK Carbs (OER) - Triple 45mm SK Carbs with linkage/manifold for 240z/260z - $1,300 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/maroochydore/engine-engine-parts-transmission/fs-triple-45mm-sk-carbs-with-linkage-manifold-for-240z-260z/1037491419 Twin 240z SU's. - $350 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/crestmead/engine-engine-parts-transmission/twin-su-carbies-manifold-linkages-/1036694319 These look like the OEM Hitachi SU's that came on the 240z (not the British ones which are lower quality in my opinion). They 'seem' like they are in good condition - cadmium plating still in tact and polished domes. However I would factor in a rebuild kit for all carbs mentioned here. You can do a lot with the original OEM SU's. Well worth the money if you're still running the flat top 260z ones. -
Cars For Sale (3rd Party Sites) Ebay, Carsales etc..
gav240z replied to gav240z's topic in Cars For Sale
Hi mate, I'm guessing that means it was a no-go then? -
1) Yes. 2) $100 - $300 depending on condition. They don't come up for sale often. 3) if it is all OEM parts I don't imagine it being hard to do. But some parts will need to be farmed out like regas etc.. 4) I've never seen 1 working to be honest. But I imagine not all that well. 5) A company called VintageAir specialise in kits for retro fitting to older cars. A quick Google search will reveal instruction for a 280z. The process should be the same really. This is the route I would take if looking for a clean install with new parts etc.. Almost all 2+2s I've seen had air con fitted when new. Most however were ripped out as 'savage power sapping devices' around the same time those classy Z cars owners decided sunroofs were a good idea also. So around the 80s / Early 90s. When I'm on a desktop computer I'll see if I can find some threads on AirCon in Zs to help further.
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So the talk about Z-car values recently here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13832.0.html - had me thinking about the Ferrari GTO's and an article I read some time ago by Chris Evans. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/3398352/Chris-Evans-Why-the-Ferrari-250-GTO-is-the-best-possible-investment.html Now I'm not saying to expect any kind of return on your Z in the near future or have it turn into your retirement fund, actually I don't think that's likely to happen any time soon or possibly in our life times. But what I do find interesting about the article is that many people didn't think these cars would be worth much money. You could pick up a GTO for £1,500 at 1 point, and then there is the story of the Aston Martin DB5's that were picked up for a song £15,000. On the flip side many people also thought many muscle cars were going to be worth big money and the market did kind of pop at 1 point. What I find interesting in the case of the Z-cars is that for a long time they were not considered worth much money, now that supplies are dwindling and the cars are getting older and many are rusted buckets, values are starting to climb. Hence I think now is a good time to pick 1 up, if you can - because at some point 5, 10 years from now we will look back at the prices they command now and think "god that was cheap".
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Yep personal import is pretty easy and with a 30+ year old car it's even easier for compliance etc.. If you're going to import from the US/Canada (which I would highly recommend), as opposed to buying a local car (especially in W.A) then go with these guys are your import brokers. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13761.0.html Shipping is the cheap part, it's the quarantine, warf fees, compliance, road worthy costs that add up.
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Just saw your PM mate. I understand and will still sign up on Wednesday. Mate if I become a competent welder / metal worker I'll be happy to help out with #19.
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Awww I haven't signed up yet. Should I wait till next semester or have circumstances changed beyond that?
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@Ledge Totally agree, if you look at the whole thing it's easy to get depressed and put off even trying. Just focus on 1 win at a time. I just spent the afternoon attempting to repair my console. I'm sure I've done a couple of things incorrectly, but what I started with was shagged anyway. My point is, this chassis isn't going to get any worse. You can only improve it. @Thriller - in some ways I feel the same with car #150, but at the end of the day if people don't agree with the way I do it. That is fine, at least it will be on the road again, not sitting around like it has since 95 and I suspect this car has been sitting even longer. @Bluerat - that's the spirit, the only way to learn is jump in. Give it a go and at the end of the day the worst that can happen is you make a mess, but you learn and you learn how not to do things. But in my opinion with a restoration like this you have to try and enjoy the journey as much as the end result. @Zed74 - I don't agree that it's a professional only job. Sure there might be areas that George should get help with, but I see no reason why he can't do a lot of other work on it to save much of the expense. Professionals had to start somewhere themselves. If this was a 120Y nobody would question giving it a go yourself. But since this is chassis #19 everyone is getting precious. . With something like this I'd rather be optimistic and naive than a realist and pessimistic is all I'm saying.
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By the way George whilst it's on my mind, don't throw any of those old panels out from the donor car. Even the ones that look like scrap. They would make excellent welding practice panels.
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Very funny, Google for the Google-man, but why buy foreign? Price, quality, fitment, availability etc..? Their website is about as useful as a chocolate teapot... So for those who tried to access their website and just got the web-server folder index. This URL might be helpful. www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/167.htm Prices look cheap to me, but I don't see some needed parts like floors, rear hatch slam / beaver (funny word) panel. I know this is George's thread, but I'm going to be needing the same panels or at least most of the same. And why oh why hasn't anyone made a 2 seater roof skin yet! Looks like George's previous owner(s) thought the sunroof was all the rage also.
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@George your right if you use a hoist a few times may as well buy 1. I got an engine stand for $50 off Gumtree last week. But hoists are a little more dear and take up more space. By the way did you label all the bolts and organise them for easy identification later? @Peter good to know. I will call if I decide to take up that offer. Another member has offered also but if it falls through I have another option.
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Hi mate, what is Tabco? You wouldn't buy locally reproduction rust repair panels from rare spares or similar? Or have I missed something?
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Ahh that does look like a donor Z after all lol... Nice work getting the motor out. How much did the hoist cost to hire? So it didn't have the original motor in it I'm guessing?
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The Brown Hornet - as NEW 1971 240Z - SOLD
gav240z replied to acf321's topic in Members Project(s) Journal
If you wanna go for a drive let me know? -
I love the head light trims for gnose and flat nose cars . I don't wanna know price lol.
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In the 70s people were trading in their old hat 240z's for the newer 260z in many cases a 2+2 and even changing their 240z tail lights and indicators for 260z ones. It is funny to think about it now but I guess like the 240k coupes that were not really valued if enough 2+2 cars vanish their will be enough demand to push prices up. Of course you have to remember also that when the 280zx arrived everyone wanted the electric gizmos and that is what impressed the ladies. I still think the 2 seated roof line will always have that appeal though. I still also see 2+2 cars as the most common on the market right now.
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Woo! awesome pick up mate. Wow #19 that is definitely not a car that has been seen or heard from in a long time. I'm excited for you and I'll be enrolling Monday in the date course. Got paid today . Don't worry mate I know the sinking feeling of I've bitten off more than I can chew but between the both of us we will get both the early cars sorted. Your door card has screws at the bottom I noticed it on mine also. I think the early cars were like that which is not something I had known about before. Will be interesting to compare notes. Can't believe matching numbers too! I'll be interested in bits of the parts car I'm sure. But it might be worth saving in itself. Apart from HS30 0004 do we know of any earlier cars than this? What colour was it originally? Red interior hmmm Silver?
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I saw 1 on eBay US for $150 you'd have to figure in shipping though... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-SERIES-1-Steering-Wheel-w-Horn-Button-NICE-OEM-/131100195037?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e862e38dd&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-SERIES-1-Steering-Wheel-w-Horn-Button-Excellent-Condition-NICE-OEM-/181296135857?hash=item2a36177eb1&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-SERIES-1-STEERING-WHEEL-IN-OUTSTANDING-SHAPE-/320815397571?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab2167ac3&vxp=mtr Alternatively you can modify a later wheel to look like the earlier style ones. Just fill in the blanks.
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Unless of course what you enjoy is the project and satisfaction of fixing something up, then it doesn't matter what I think and I can understand that also.
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LOL I'm the opposite, I think the 2.5K one looks pretty dry and 'could' be more solid body wise, it certainly looks straight at the front. I prefer a non-engine swap, but an RB30 turbo in a 2+2 would be very quick. I think I recall seeing that RB30 turbo 2+2 around about 10 years or so ago. Back then the paint job was new, but I can't be certain it's the same car. I just remember seeing a wine red 260z 2+2 with wire wheels. I think after my own 2+2 was written off the owner came around to my place to buy a few bits and pieces and expressed interest in the sunroof at the time. I see it has a sunroof also. The 2.5k car appeals because it looks straight and dry, plus it's an auto so it's less likely to have been given a hard time by young owners over the years - since auto's don't appeal as much to that crowd. I also think a good cut and polish and paint sealer and you could get the paint to look half decent again. It's also very original looking and I find those cars to often be the best cars as they haven't been tampered with, wiring wise, body work is less likely to be hiding bog and all overall less fudged jobs. Either car could be a good purchase. If you inspect the body work carefully. However I think you'd be mad to buy a project 2+2 at $5k when you could get a running clean example for a couple of thousand more. Like this 1 that Locky (Lurch) is selling on behalf of someone. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/yarragon/cars-vans-utes/1976-datsun-260z-coupe/1035276135 Buy a dud Z with rotten body work and you'll spend more than a couple of grand fixing it up easily.
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The seats are wrapped in bubble wrap a few times, then a box and a half was wrapped around that. But you're correct almost 2 roles of tape was used as I was afraid it will all fall apart otherwise. Hopefully Mark will receive them as they left.
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With regard to HLS30 prefix cars, apart from North American where did they end up? I'm guessing South America, but were any HSL30 cars sold in Europe also seeing as they would be LHD? I always see U.S based sites or eBay sellers listing parts as being 'Euro' spec when in actual fact it was also AU / NZ / ZA spec.. Did HLS30 cars come with 'Euro Spec' parts? Eg: The non-pollution balance tube on the SU carb manifold or the amber turn signal tail lights for example?* Do you know what countries the first cars were officially exported to by Nissan? I have reason to believe that HS30 0004 was produced in 1969 also. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13650.0.html However my attempts so far to contact the owner have been refused - apparently not so good experiences in the past has caused the current owner to be once bitten twice shy. But for me it would certainly be worth getting a look at it to see what parts can be found and to see if there is any evidence (perhaps chalk marks under dash or on other components) to suggest it was built in 1969. The current theory on this car that I've heard is that it was a prototype that was quality control wise 'ready' and therefore rushed to Australia for the motoring press to test out, it was probably not intended to be anything other than a test mule. As the road test report mentioned a couple of minor items on the car were not working. Which would further fuel this theory, but I must stress this is hearsay for now. If anything this makes HS30 0004 much more special than HLS30 00013, given how few numbers wise were produced of HS30 cars in the AU / NZ specification. Totally agree, when you consider how special some of those other non-240z badged models are. To me the 240zg and 432-R models along with the competition rally cars are some of the most interesting cars around - especially when you look at their specification compared with the US market cars which in many ways were watered down (probably by the bean counters).
