gav240z

Good points Wayne I was thinking the same thing. The hassle of the projector is not worth the collected GST. The car well that is another story. I do admire his tenacity though..

Yeah it is the hand throttle knob I'm missing which has a different symbol on it. I'll tidy up the choke knob. @Nick there was no wires or backing plate. The console trim piece has a couple of tabs to fix the switches to though. I can take a photo of the underside of the piece if you like?

Nick I think neither were used on the AU equipped market cars. 1 appears to be for rear demister, the other I suspect for parker lights found on Japanese models but I'm not entirely sure.

'Genuine' 240zg HS30-H for sale? http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d147047693 It's priced around $50-60k. Also this mentions it's a PS30 chassis. Meaning Fairlady Z 432 model. http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m120636799 But I don't know if this is possible to verify, looks like it was used for parts to restore another car perhaps? S20 is gone.

Genuine Gnose Assembly on Yahoo! Auctions? http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b153853427 Looks like the real deal to me? Certainly has the genuine price tag

What The FUQ? - Frequently Unanswered Questions of the "Australian Government" - Documentary I watched this today and thought I would share. What are your thoughts?

Fair enough mate, 'limited skills' is what I can relate to.

Awesome rust repair work mate. That's a great start for someone all the hard stuff is taken care of. Now just paint and assemble how you want it.

Ahhh yes a 3D printer will be the bomb once prices come down on them. I'm sure it will make all our lives easier when it comes to recreating that broken plastic trim or part. Until then I was looking at this... Watch at the end how they recreate a plastic tab. I was thinking I could use a similar technique to construct the missing corner of my console trim and then using a dremel carefully cut out, sand and sculpture the piece... that's a lot of work I know, but so far I've not seen this piece on eBay or Yahoo! auctions anywhere.

I've got the same rust spot on the same side of my car. With regard to the rust repair panel, what was the reason for just doing the patch repair? I was thinking of just cutting the bottom part of the fender off (where your paint line is in the photos) and just doing a butt weld along that line - joining the rust repair section to the rest of the fender. I guess what I am asking is, was there a specific reason for your approach?

I want this model car! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=201025256324 Too many pennies though...

Thanks for the tips Tai, live and learn.

Hi Guys, Just putting up a wanted add in case someone has these bits laying around. I'm getting closer to finishing the restoration of my center console and looking to see if I can track down some missing / broken bits. Looking for hand throttle knob.(The missing 1 in this photo). and ideally the micro-screw that goes with it (since I've no idea where to source another? Perhaps a mobile phone spare parts dealer?). Ashtray Lid Mine has already split into a million pieces and been glued back together. So looking for 1 that's in better shape if possible? Choke / Throttle Surround Garnish / Finisher piece (no idea what's it's actual name is). Maybe you have 1 broken in the top half? I've got a couple of leads on complete console's but just seeing if people may have this odd pieces laying around and not been using them... Let me know what ya got?

Sent a PM.

I didn't want to add to this thread until I had finished, but I've run into an issue and could use some advice. So I used some donor ABS plastic I got from an old speaker grille in the car. I melted it onto the console in the areas where it had cracked. Thanks Mr Oval Whizzer - whatever that means Next I sanded it down flat Obviously this has removed the plastic texture, but that's ok as I'm going to spray Duplicolor bed liner spray when I'm done to try and simulate that textured style. I noticed that there was still some gaps from my plastic welding and I decided to experiment with those hairline cracks and try to fill them with this epoxy. It did manage to fill the gaps, but it's not a coloured glue so it sets dry and you can still see the hairline cracks under it. I have since bought some similar stuff from Supercheap Auto called Permatex Permapoxy 5 Minute Plastic Weld - 25mL. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Permatex-Permapoxy-5-Minute-Plastic-Weld-25mL.aspx?pid=129945#Cross Which i'll give a try and let you know how it pans out... This brings me to the next step.. fixing a large gap / crack..I bought a fiberglass repair kit to try and fix these issues.. 1. If you look back at a previous photo you'll see where the gearbox gaiter/boot clips onto the console there is some damage to the plastic. A large crack and a missing bit of the plastic. So I sanded the affected area and lay down the fiberglass matting and resin with a brush to try and re-enforce the area. I also lay some fiberglass on the underside of the console where the cracks were before plastic welding them. Finally I also decided to apply a small patch around 1 of the screw holes that got a bit reamed out when removing it from the car - due to a rusted screw. These photos were taken last night, I checked this morning and it appears that the resin is still sticky / wet and hasn't set? Photos from this morning.. Under cracks was a bit better Other photos I thought that perhaps the catalyst / resin mixture wasn't done right (50ml to 20 drops of catalyst was the mixture), but looking in the mixing cup this morning I noticed it had no trouble setting rock hard! Hmm yummy! Questions: 1. So why wouldn't the fiberglass set when left overnight? I left the console on a table outside under cover, but the grass has condensation on it in the morning, is it the moisture in the air preventing it from setting? When I left the house I left it sitting in the sun on the table, just in case. 2. Shamefully I didn't use wax and grease remover before laying down the fiberglass - I realised my mistake after I started - is this causing the problem? Also I only sanded the surface where the massive crack was under the gear stick boot, I didn't sand the area under the crack or around the screw hole (brain fart ). 3. What causes the resin to not set hard to the mixing cup? Will it not bond to certain plastics? Is my console made from the same kind of plastic do you think? Hence why it won't set on this surface? 4. Have I done anything else wrong?

Nice can't wait to lay down some Safari Brown on my own project!

Yeah they fit my Japanese size hips quite well, but you wouldn't want to be any bigger than 34 cm around the waist lol...

None that I'm aware of but maybe the sump is different?

Did you see these? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3484.msg145428.html#msg145428

I'm just in love with that Miura

S30Z fender mirrors, missing the base. http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w95425845

Did you find a set mate? http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e147335899 Buy it now of $550 AU - bit steep, but could go cheap if bidding doesn't go that high..

I am also interested in fuel tank as mine has taken a good old beating over the years. This is a standard 240z tank right?

Glad to see they arrived as they left. They look great in your Z. Much better than my dirty old Z .

Optimistic? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/seaford/cars-vans-utes/1979-datsun-skyline-c210-limited-edition-expression-of-interest/1037452337 Here is a rare bird indeed. 260c coupe. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bendigo-region/other-automotive/datsun-260c-coupe-/1037497547