gav240z

Oh boy, Anyone have tips for me on how to get this alignment right? With the torsion bars in the bonnet sits high on the passenger side of the car. If I push it down flush I can get the panel alignment acceptable, but it won't sit down that low. I've tried adjusting the hinges and moving them up and down, I haven't elongated the bonnet mounting points (would rather not do that as it seems like a butchers method and I'm not sure it will help here). The car did have a light front-ender on that side, so I'm wonder if that's pushed the area in front of the radiator support down just slightly. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a good solid / straight bonnet to test out (to see if it's the bodywork on the shell or the bonnet itself). But if anyone has ideas on how to improve this I'm all ears! NB: Yes the bonnet skin and frame are not welded back together and that will help (a little) since it will pull the skin closer to the frame, but it will still sit a bit higher than it should and it's just that side!

I found 1 for sale for around $300 but it doesn't have K cast into it, it has HC stamped on it, not sure if that makes any difference. It's from a 2008/9 WRX 4.4 ratio.

What sort of coin are you chasing for it? I'm on a very very tight budget this month. Unfortunately had some unforeseen expenses, but looking at this to have it re-cored in future.

Woohoo, always happy to see someone who deserves 1 get 1.

No doubt Lurch will tell us everything wrong with this video.

Any chance you have a link to the seller's profile on Facebook? I don't have access to that group yet.

It turns out that the 280zx Analog clocks have a very similar looking knob, only problem is they are encapsulated in the plastic lens. I'm not sure how they did it, but there is a spring behind it also so when you push on it you can adjust the clock hands etc.. I am not sure if Ron at Zclocks re-makes his own lens for clocks (I'm fairly sure he's made tooling to do it). In which case I may ask him about making a moulding with the 280zx knob and using another tach's spare needle and attaching it painting it "orange" etc.. although I wonder if the original colour is red and the photos show orange because it's faded over the years? It certainly seems that the Rally Clocks second hand faded to an orange (from a red-ish colour). I also think red would look more suitable... but first steps first.

Ok it's been about a week, last chance to get your order in before I start offering them to the world!

I believe I have a spare set of '260z' R200 stub axels in storage somewhere. Not sure if that would make any difference? But good to know that Stewart also makes these parts. I like to support the locals where possible! Also after posting the question last night I found this website. Which is a great resource as it shows photos etc.. (I'm a visual kind of guy ). http://www.kangamotorsports.com/blog/2016/6/18/datsun-240z-limited-slip-differential Apparently John Williams here (also does the side axels for the conversion). https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1691345565&fref=ts

I think you've said it is too much weight in the rear of the car? Is that the biggest issue?

Hey Mick, So reading this thread over again, the only part you needed to bolt a Subaru R180 LSD into your S30Z was the beta motorsports adapters (side axels) is that right? Unfortunately it looks like beta motorsports is no more. John Coffey died . Not sure if anyone is making this part or similar anymore? FWIW I'm happy to retain the 240z Uni joint axels.

This came out looking quite good, only problem is I can't quite get the alignment of the positioning of numbers right. If I scanned the real deal in, it would probably have been easier...

The 100L fuel tank displaced the spare tyre well, it is similar to the Skyline fuel tank. Photos of a genuine PS30-SB here. http://www.classiczcars.com/profile/8135-take432r/content/?type=gallery_image Z432-R boot floor. http://www.classiczcars.com/gallery/image/33920-432r-is-beautiful-but/

Another Kanto Seiki made gauge for the Datsun 1200 (Sunny). http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Tachometer#10.2C000_RPM_Tachometer

Article on it here.http://www.downshiftaus.com/2017/zlatkos-datsun-240z/ Chassis no. is HS30 103759

There was a company in Taiwan that was producing guards and bonnets in the 80s/90s perhaps they got hold of said dies and stamps? Seems an awful waste to throw stuff like that out especially when it costs a fortune to produce it in the first place.

Another

L-GATA powered S30Z running 10.4 seconds in 1/4 mile?

On that topic I saw this the other day. http://jalopnik.com/what-happened-to-all-the-datsun-240zs-nissan-restored-i-1583370936 I've seen a few pop up on the Internet from time to time. I recall quite a bit of hype about it when I was looking for a 240z back in 1997. A few sellers informed me about the program (Australian ones) and I was well aware of it as I had just started using the old Google's back in 1997. Back then nobody knew what Googling was though! Let's hope Nissan is as committed to these cars as we are!

I can look it up, but I think I paid $250-$300 for freight but I imported 3 at the same time. Sold 2 and kept 1.

Somehow I doubt that... I imagine it will be a lot of service items and maybe/hopefully/fingers crossed panels.

I got that 1 from here: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/forum/garages/datsun-nissan-garage/287661-vintage-datsun-fairlady-z-and-240z-racing-and-rally-images However there is no captions with those images to tell you more about them. I believe however that the photo I posted above was / is a genuine PZR race car and had it's S20 removed and re-fitted with an L24 for a special type of circuit racing in Japan. I seem to recall Alan discussing it recently on Classiczcars.com in a debate about S20 vs L24 and which is better... If I can find it I'll post it again. I made a few edits last nigh to the tach, most probably wouldn't spot the difference but I didn't have a good example of the small inscription at the bottom of the tach where it says KANTO SEIKI and has the company logo. What's interesting is that I noticed Australian tach's have some kind of ADR mark I believe. Horrible pic but it was enough to allow me to trace what I needed. Note the ADR IC I am pretty sure that is for Australian Design Regulation etc..Would love to know if anybody else knows for sure? https://goo.gl/photos/tRwu75fzSYHugDa5A

Vintage car stereo's are in! https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c596810728 Sold for AU$703.92

Ahh so more than 1?

I've not had any experience with either, so couldn't say for sure.. By the way you may appreciate this photo. (can you see what Tach it's running?)