gav240z

2+2 bumpers are wider than 2 seater. Also 260z 2 seater bumpers appear to use different mounting brackets but the bumpers look to be the same otherwise. Finding 2 seater bumpers is getting harder.

Just bumping this up again. I came across this video recently. Then I started digging: Some background here: http://www.storiesofbike.com/stories/the-crushing-of-the-kommune Similar to Deus Ex Machina etc.. Workshop in Sydney. https://www.risingsunworkshop.com/ Kustom Kommune http://www.kustomkommune.com.au/

$50 each I'll send you payment for them in a second. .

LOL, I know it's an S30Z, but I can't bring myself to like that either.

Quick bump for G and GongZ...

Whilst it's all fun and games until someone loses an eye. Can we perhaps steer back on topic?

As much as I try, I just can't bring myself to like the vinyl roof on these cars.

Maybe the early metal fan's on an early S30Z are not that great after all .

Apparently this 1 is quite rusty. But original. $10500 in LA. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/6124396890.html

Well thanks to George (Geos260) who dropped this bonnet around today. It's got a lot of surface rust from sitting around and the front nose has had a nudge in the past (bogged up) but the overall side profiles seem to remain relatively untouched. https://goo.gl/photos/6rSjPR6R9q6ENaj68 I've only mucked about a little bit, but already the alignment is better than the other bonnet. https://goo.gl/photos/6QBqXzb3hCKZe9cp8 This is with the torsion bars in and the bonnet shut. I'm just pressing down on the headlight surround (sugar scoop) because I haven't bolted it down. https://goo.gl/photos/BNAv4YPSgczfvPnr9 The gap here looks worse in the photo than it is and I'm sure could be adjusted given a few minor tweaks. https://goo.gl/photos/uDE1g15MUYevLTUCA https://goo.gl/photos/a1yR1o78f6EEjPTh9 Gap up near cowl is good. (again some minor tweaking required). https://goo.gl/photos/1zoJ9RTR73UVnvkD9 It's actually sitting a little high on the driver side now. https://goo.gl/photos/29Xg8G46TKYzcPpX9 You can see the front of this bonnet droops just a touch. https://goo.gl/photos/LFTp9vxjxR4BMrSy8 Closed with torsion bars in (not sitting high). https://goo.gl/photos/moXJXadHt7ywKeb57 https://goo.gl/photos/JEtmcQ9wnZMP6FCP7 https://goo.gl/photos/2N3MnymS1mrFiKWQ9 I only really messed about with it for an hour so considering how much gymnastics I've done with the other bonnet so far, not bad! I did notice that the mounting points on the bonnet where it attaches to the hinge were slightly elongated on 1 side so that might also be at play here. The other thing with the original bonnet is that it hasn't been buttoned up yet (lips folded over), spot welds to join frame and skin and that in itself might cause the bonnet frame to sit a bit differently and perhaps allow for better fitment in general? It's at times like this you can only sort of guess that you're almost in the right place before finalising things and welding it into place. In the interim though I've got some high spots to take care of and some other detailing work because spotting it into place. So I'll have a bit more of a play around with the alignment and see how it goes.

It's not that I'm unwilling to share it, it's that I was asked to set it up in such a way that those who contribute to the community would be able to gain access to it. I just haven't got around to administering that yet. Easiest method I thought of was to create a private section of the forum that only donating members (or members above X posts can access). If you're desperate for a copy send me a PM, you'll need a Google Account to access it from GoogleDrive.

Hooray another early girl accounted for. ?

Worth looking at also in future (bookmark for myself). http://phantomjs.org/page-automation.html Great way to snap shot a page before it's taken down... Think of Gumtree ads that get pulled within an hour or 2...

A good example of auction fever driving up prices.

So it looks like the MK63 caliper weighs the same as the stock twin pot? I would love for someone to weigh up the Toyota 4x4 S12 or S12W calipers. I suspect they are much heavier. I just recall driving a late 260z 2 seater with these brakes (S12s) fitted and you really feel that extra unsprung weight in the front wheels. PS: Can't believe he offered you Fosters, does anybody actually drink that stuff?

It will have the solid pillars (no vents in hatch). It's a 71 model. Would love to see photos of it! Closest I have to that number is HS30 00745 https://goo.gl/photos/Bvce1juMKTCiG5pi6 I wonder how many other rare gems are hiding in Tasmania - a couple of early cars have come from there!

Welcome Greg, what year is your 240z? Any photos (attachments are not working right at the minute) but would love to know which car it is?

Meet the million-dollar Torana Classic Holden up for auction in Sydney. http://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/meet-the-milliondollar-torana-20170509-gw1310.html

Not all cars remain desirable the early series 1 Rx7 has always been a popular car and probably very difficult to find in original shape by now. I certainly see a lot of 90s cars becoming cult classics. Silvias, Supras, Skylines, rx7s, wrx's, evos etc.. They are all very popular even now, no reason in 30 years they won't bring mega money to my mind. Especially in original shape as so many have been modified extensively.

$55k for the Series 1 RX-7! https://www.facebook.com/shannonsinsurance/videos/1554968694516207/?hc_ref=NEWSFEED *edit can't attach images. (looks like a web server issue :S) Series 1: 55k Series 2: 37k Series 3: 27k I am blown away by that, I would have thought a series 1 would get $30k at most.

I wouldn't mig them together anyway, much better to Oxy weld them together (or TIG if that's an option). Mig welding is a hard weld and cannot be easily manipulated after you weld the 2 pieces together. Oxy however can be beat into shape. It's not unusual that aftermarket steel is thicker than the standard Nissan pressings. https://tabcoparts.com/cars/datsun/240z-260z-280z-1970-1978/16730.html If you can save the original skin it might be less work..

Assume you were referring to this thread? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/3202-tutorial-door-skin-removal-for-dummies/ All aftermarket panels need fettling to get right... there's a reason OEM is best.

Hmmm Lurch's thread was actually about removing the skin and repairing it, my part of the same thread was about fitting a rare spares skin. I have to admit it wasn't as straight forward as you'd think but at the same time I don't recall having issues getting the lip over the edge of the door frame. Rather the biggest issue is the top edge where it meets the fender the gap is larger than I'd like. Should be an easy fix by simply mig welding on the edge to increase the height in that area. Got any photos of where you're stuck? If I do this again I'd rather try repair existing skins where possible, although my drivers door had rust up the top where the chrome trim sits so I decided to bin it. (I still have the old drivers door skin, but the lip was cut off when I removed it). Tabco in the US do the lower half of the door skin section so you could repair the old skin (if you still have it?). If I was in Melbourne I'd come around to have a look (my folks are near you I believe). I might come down in a week or 2, looking at a property for sale. But no promises.

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