gav240z

There was an old Yellow Pages commercial on TV years ago, 2 old men, neighbours watering their garden's when 1 decides to wet the other and then they are both spraying each other with garden hoses until 1 of them ends up with a water logged ear. The ad is about finding a doctor in the yellow pages to help the old sod get on the mend as he nurses his ear (ear pain can be horrible mind you). Anyway point is, the way these 2 argue is like the old men bickering in the yellow pages commercial. I really wish I could find the commercial again, but sadly nobody appears to have uploaded it to Youtube yet. It would make for an excellent Internet winning meme.

Pair of 40mm Solex/Mikuni carbs. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/forster/engine-engine-parts-transmission/mikuni-solex-40mm-carbies/1148630107 $250. Good price.

If anyone can get the chassis no. please let me know?

The main value difference is usually RHD vs LHD. So I don't see why not? Not many cars sold into NZ (240z's) so I'm not entirely sure on specification differences but from what I've gathered not many. It's still an HS30.

In NZ RHD 240z for sale $15k HS30-11537 Will take a bit to make original again. https://preview.trademe.co.nz/motors/trade-me-motors/cars/1331300708

Very nice! I recall not long ago an SP RX-7 (FD3S) at Shannon's going for close to $80k. That's why I thought this would go a bit higher. Given their legendary status in Australia etc.. I wish I bought 1 a few years back but I've got enough toys for now. Besides I love my FD. By the way do you know some of the other subtle differences for AUDM BNR32's vs Japanese imports? I tried searching for it before auction and couldn't find much. I just recall the tail lamps being the giveaway.

Yeah I wish I could find the first owners of my cars. Would love to talk to them about buying them new.

I may try and source a better rear valance section, but in the interim I'll have a go at repairing it. On the left hand corner below the tail lamp it had rusted out. I beat the panel into shape (just so I know what i'm working to). Rust repair corner. I had to remove the rear tail lamp garnish clips (which I didn't want to do because I'm worried they'll go missing). Started to curve the replacement panel using a shrinker. I use the shrinker on the top edge as that in turns curves the panel in. Not much more progress ;(

Well now you know who the original owner was (JackWarnock), that's gotta count for something surely? HS30 00741 Engine No.: L24 031211 Colour: 918 Kalahari Tan

Go for it.

I'm sure they have records going back a lot further, they just don't make them publicly available.

https://goo.gl/photos/gm132WqLwMTb5brm7 She ain't very original no more..

Car is looking good, I too hate bonnet alignment problems.

So it's been a while between posts, but whilst I am working on the bonnet I've got to a stage where I really need guidance on the finishing bits and whilst the teacher is busy with other students I don't have much to do. I decided I should probably tackle the rear slam panel while the teacher is busy and start making progress on that. Since I don't think it's going to be too difficult (famous last words of course). Removing it was an utter paint in the arse, but given the rust damage and the fact the car had a light nudge in the rear many years ago it really was the only way to do it. What I found odd was the factory sealant behind the panel in the box section. It sort of just sat here. I'm guessing a light impact in the rear disturbs the sealant around the panel, water ingress comes in and then she rusts out from the inside. Rear valance / beaver removed. The panel itself isn't actually too bad considering, but it is quite dented and the rusted areas would have been a pain in the butt to repair using mig. For those playing at home, here are most of the spot welds. I certainly found a few hidden ones which made the whole process very frustrating I must say.. Now compare the profile with the replacement spare I got from Canada. How it looks without the panel at the rear.

Actually I think I may have been getting it confused with this car. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1976-Datsun-260Z-2-2-Coupe-2dr-Auto-/192146573482 Same wheels and colour, sold in eBay back in April. I didn't realise but you can actually search for completed auctions on eBay using the advanced search option (how I found this car). Only problem is that the search seems limited to the past 3 months. It would be awesome if you could go back years, the amount of 240z's I could account for would be awesome!

This video made me almost like Coldplay.

1976 Datsun 260Z Manual Asking $28.5k https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-4749538?WT.seg_4=AutoAlert;PCAA

Have fun gluing down gear knob inserts this weekend fellas. Let's see some photos of them installed

A small number of posts went missing when the server was migrated across. Sorry about that.

So this has been a lot of faffing about... So thanks to George for letting me borrow his rusty (surface mostly) bonnet to compare alignment with the 1 off the car. Even though this bonnet had had a couple of love taps of it's own the side profiles down the bonnet appeared to remain as factory. This served as a good reference point as to where my bonnet should roughly follow or line up. A tip I've discovered is that you really should bolt up the fenders and sugar scoops along with fitting the bonnet latch / catch because all these things impact the way the bonnet ultimately sits on the car. As you can see the bonnet on this side still sits a little proud of the fender by about say 5mm but that's because it hasn't been welded (the skin) onto the frame yet. So it naturally wants to sit high. My tafe teacher last week helped me spot a couple of spots where the bonnet frame wasn't quite right, which is very subtle to the untrained eye and I reckon this has helped a little with some other minor adjustments I've been up to. For example in the panel beating business there is a saying "whatever works". The front right nose area of the car was sitting a little low and wasn't coming forward enough. I was able to coach it up a few mm using a jack under it and a block of wood. But getting it to come forward is a little more tricky. Still I think it's close enough for now to allow me to get the bonnet alignment looking a lot better than before. It's not sitting perfect at the rear here because the skin isn't folded around the frame. But if you give it a gentle push down it will sit nicely. Another issue with this bonnet is that it used to have body filler up toward the passenger end of the bonnet from a previous ding or dent put in it, this had a low spot that we unfortunately made worse trying to repair it, in fact I've made a lot of mistakes during the course of this bonnet repair. I'm actually surprised it's turned out this well so far. I really thought I'd need a new bonnet. Doing some heat shrinking (which I'm only sort of good at) I managed to shrink this area back into shape and then the Tafe teacher came over and gave me a few tips on where to focus my heat shrinking. We then filed up the bonnet, there is still a few minor low spots but we can use regular body filler (which would be no thicker than 5 or 10 cent coin. Engineers blue dye is used to help spot the low areas when filing. Most of the darker ones are so small you can hardly feel them when you run you fingers over them, but they are there! Body filler should make them disappear. Knowing my luck by the time I get this bonnet looking right a NOS 1 will appear. It's always the way it works..I guess at least this 1 is the original off the car.

I'm actually looking forward to it, (oil being phased out) and electric replacing it. For what it's worth I still think classic cars will hold value and nostalgia for folks like us. I can imagine we'll have to pay a carbon tax to use these cars and as a result may be confined to track days or similar? But I'm not sure the tipping point is that close. It's kind of like Cloud Storage, not long ago you paid a fortune for disk space, now it's cheap as chips. Batteries will go that way and their range will extend "Moore's law" and all that. As for engine swaps, don't worry it may be electric but we can make it sound like an L-series at 10,000 rpm.

Only photos you've got? The car was recorded on the first page of this thread, original owner tried to find it with no luck. Thought it was crushed. Hopefully it's still out there though! Those photos seem to indicate it was solid enough. Shame about the holes cut in the door shell.

Found this business on Gumtree. Has anyone here used them before? https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/sydney-city/cars-vans-utes/sydney-vapourblasting-/1147633589 Sales pitch. Website here: http://vapourblasting.com.au/ Video from their website.

Cheap 2+2 needs work. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wolffdene/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z-2-2-rolling-shell/1147842264 $1,500.00

Take a punt fellas on what you think this will bring at auction? AU Delivered R32 GTR. https://www.motormag.com.au/news/1705/australian-delivered-nissan-skyline-r32-gt-r-for-auction I'm going to say $85k. 1 way to distinguish AU delivered cars is via the rear lights, they have the amber turn signals