gav240z

Thanks mate, I've added it to my registry. Side note, I need to finish converting my spreadsheet into a BigQuery table. Then work out a way to make the data more accessible to folks. So people can confirm if a car is in the register or not. I'm just cautious about making it available to the wrong people who may want to rebirth cars down the line...

You can try fix the original mechanism, but in my experience once it was back in the car (after having it on a test bench) it stopped working again. And it's pain the butt to get in and out again. The original mechanism clogs with dust/dirt (doesn't take much) to stop the gears moving and it's reliable long term. The best repair is to get hold of a later 280zx era clock with Quartz movement in it and install that in the 240z Jeco clock (with 240z face etc..) and then hope that performs better. I had a few clocks done this way and restored by Ron at Zclocks.com, the only problem is that ZX's and their analog clocks are getting harder to source these days. Ron at Zclocks.com was looking for an alternative mechanism to replace the ZX ones to repair Jeco clocks and may have found something, it's been a couple of years since I talked to him. Is it worth having a working clock? In my opinion absolutely, I hate gauges that don't work!

It's been beautifully done. Well worth asking price.

FYI: HS30 00004 is up for auction in the next 3 days (8th December). https://burnsandco.hibid.com/lot/224051982/1969-datsun-240z-build-no-4?ref=catalog There is some detailed photos in the listing.

Nice. Sounds similar to the E31 head from HS30 00150 I sent to Les a few years ago. In terms of work required to repair it.

That looks great, after all this work and time.

Join the club, but I also think our summers are hotter now than 20 years ago and I find it pretty intense in a Z in summer days. Definitely a +1 for aircon.

HS30 0004 is going to auction: https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=592055046493282&id=100070663746176&rdid=XmWEkbdcg4p55c7T Could be a good litmus test of what people are willing to pay for an early AU HS30.

Photo I have of #48. Not a good photo.

Sulio (or Toecutter username) hasn't been on the forum for many years now. But yes, I own chassis #51 I've been mulling the question of what it's worth... Certainly a challenge at the moment, given the market for vintage/classic cars is definitely down - especially after interest rates have increased globally and IMHO prices are still pulling back for many cars. Half finished cars are also much more difficult to value, given it's hard to gauge what's there and what isn't. Obviously the more solid and straight the bodywork and less rust the shell has, the higher the value. Along with all the early S30Z parts that are difficult to find, but it sounds like the loss in this case was the chassis, not so much all the associated parts that go with it. IMHO and I find it hard to put a price out there, but I think somewhere in the $20-$30k AUD range may be where I'd value it at the moment. But it's highly subjective and placed on Bring a trailer or similar, who knows what money it could bring? Speaking of BAT HLS30 00051 appeared on BAT back in 2013 i believe, and recently resurfaced in this thread here: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68900-finally-found-a-69-240z-51-time-to-finish-a-30-year-multiple-owner-restoration/ I feel like @George who owns #19 might also be a good person to ask re: value. Not sure if I've been helpful?

Cuong's old car

Not sure it was a 240z registration might be too early for a 70 model if that's Victorian rego no.? Could it have been a Datsun sedan?

Yes Violet or 4 cylinder rally mags. I have 3 of them myself. I found a cracked 1 in Bendigo but passed on it. So need 1 more to make a complete set.

Unfortunately there is a lot of them on Facebook now. It's basically the majority of listings. Zuckerberg doesn't care. He's built his doomsday bunker in Hawaii.

It's been a long time, but I believe the other plug is for the Japanese market Parker lamp switches. So yes it works fine even if that other part of the loom is left as is.

Has Les done a build with 1 yet?

If there is 1 thing I hate, it's those hideous poorman connectors. I had to remove them in my white 71 as that was how the alarm system was integrated into the car. Ugh... Pretty sure he doesn't want to do another after that also?

Other company I've heard of is Lumley https://www.lsvcarinsurance.com.au/

Absolutely, I was just looking to practice

Oh nice, do they do an early version (with the hatch vent holes pressed into it)? The only difference with early vs later hatches is those vents, so if they only make that piece you can just cut out the vents and patch them into a non vented 1. I spent ages at my night Tafe panel beating class shaping that lower section, it's actually not flat at the bottom but curved which complicated things for a newbie like me. The problem though is that often the hatch frame is rusted out also, not just the upper skin. I have another early hatch I got off someone else who had started to try and repair it, it was a bit beat up. So an excellent guinea pig for trying to repair with a new skin panel like that.

None spare, I would need to get more made.

Lovely, great progress.

If you got a PM from DaveBrook7 I've just deleted this member. Upon further investigation they appear to be a Russian scammer.

Topic locked group buy is full.

Hmmm I've got the same issue with my 240z, I assumed it was the cable that gets out of round or square over time. But perhaps not, although I don't hear anything in terms of noise from mine when driving. I don't yet know how to fix it though!