gav240z

Well that was fun... Used paint stripper to remove the black paint. Next to waterblast.

Reported again, not sure where they get all these vintage accounts though! Might be time to send a few emails to john65w@hotmail.com ?

Good examples of how the original floors *should* look here. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13990-1971-240z-original-survivor/?p=166256

2 more panels on their way (rear 1/4 panels). Progress has been slow, but I may end up needing the left hand side for #150 - but RH side should be for sale.. Unfortunately I missed out on the rear valance (another vulture got in before me).. hate seeing these cars parted out..

Next time I see them in person I'll tell them that the S30Z community is disappointed. They have come into the office a couple of times for Youtube related events.

It would be awfully hypocritical of me to hand out warning points, when heaven knows I probably need a good dose of them myself.

The Joys of Triples.. https://www.facebook.com/jdmlegendsofficial/videos/1186125518085408/

Report it, I saw that car a few years ago at a Pickles Auction, it sold for around $28k back then (2014).. https://photos.app.goo.gl/bu0YzCC3L6lH5coF2 Click on the report ad link on eBay, I have already but if a few of you do it the more likely it will get pulled quickly.

European and Japanese market cars often didn't have the # stamped on the ID plate. Just the type.. As far as I know all Australian delivered cars should have the L26 engine no. on them, but perhaps were imports from other markets? NZ perhaps? *Edit then again it shouldn't have a compliance plate if it was an import I think?

George that Jute material on the firewall, I think I'm in love... you may also be able to make some money making more! We shall have to catch up and talk as this is 1 product I wasn't sure how to tackle on my own cars.

Weird ain't it? A bit like money laundering into Real Estate no problem? http://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-07-13/should-australias-anti-money-laundering-laws-be-extended/8703354 But import a few gaskets with Asbestos in them (cause you know that's how they were made back then) and suddenly you're in deep shyte...#Straya!

It's all a bit silly and knee jerk reaction really.. it will however mean that cars already here will command a premium because of the nightmares associated with importation.

Gas Monkey Garage SR20 280z

I like to think every 240z can be saved! Especially an HS30... It depends on what you want to spend, but given you have some history and nostalgia with the car already I'd say it would be fitting for you to restore it. However I don't know your budget constraints etc.. I would slot the original L-banger back in with Triples, but that's just me. I kind of like the hot rod V8 too.. The chassis rails look non-standard and the photos show extensive rot, this will require some patience. What chassis no. is she? She looks like she was 112 lime originally? Colour now looks more Safari Gold (but a bit too yellow)? This kind of Waggot?

MCM Fairlady Z episode - I haven't watched it myself yet.

Barn find Cobra, with a perhaps pretend barn find car mixed in? I do like though!

Gaskets! Some gaskets had Asbestos in them, only a problem if you decided to grind them up and have dust fly everywhere!

Good topic, I'd also like to know, but outside of your mentioned parts I don't know of any? The fuel line wrap seems to be something added by dealers and on 260z's. Never seen them on 240z's.

here ya go... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59745-definitive-70-71-240z-su-fuel-level-thread/

Now there is a guy who knows how to get repeat business!

Obviously he's joking, this video will explain it all.

You can get a kit to convert your R180 open diff to an LSD. By the time you do the adaptor conversion etc.. it works out about the same. I looked into it a while back. Speak to Les Collins or Lurch about it.

Must be an early cover thing... My later cover was different. I thought of asking you but wanted to try figure it out on my own lol..

So I'm in the middle of my SU carb rebuild and want to get a few parts water jet blasted. I figured I'd get the 2400 OHC cover done at the same time, but it's been painted (ideally paint should be removed - since you're charged by the hour for the water blasting and paint can be difficult to get off through this process). So I've got paint stripper and as I did with my other BIG NISSAN cover I wanted to remove the inside baffle so that when it's cleaned all the crap under the baffle can also be cleaned up. Slight problem.. It looks like someone was here before, where as with my other Nissan cover I was able to use a heat gun to melt the adhesive that is put over the fasteners to prevent them working their way loose in a motor, someone has put some kind of solder on these.. That wouldn't be a problem, but the heat gun was not melting it at all, so I went to bunnings and got a Propane Torch, tried that, but again it won't melt... not sure what this solder material is, but I'm thinking the only options I have are to grind it off with a dremel tool or use an angle grinder to cut away the baffle plate and then cut off the screw heads (not so easy given size of angle grinder etc.. I obviously don't want to damage the Nissan 2400 OHC cover, given how rare they are.. Any suggestions?

1 to watch, Hemi Cuda 1970.. survivor. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1970-Plymouth-Barracuda/152941461399