Cozza Posted August 22, 2013 Posted August 22, 2013 Also found a pic of black brake lines on a 1600, looks grouse I reckon! They do look good, do you think they are painted or something else? Mick Quote
KatoKid Posted August 22, 2013 Author Posted August 22, 2013 Definitely painted http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67212170-My-Dattos-FJ20ET-510-VG30DET-180B%28east%29/page4 Since then Ive seen powder coated and reckon that's the go. Quote
mossy Posted August 22, 2013 Posted August 22, 2013 Hey Dave did you end up getting your fuel tank done. Quote
KatoKid Posted August 22, 2013 Author Posted August 22, 2013 Coincedently......picked it up yesterday...pics and report tomorrow! Quote
KatoKid Posted August 23, 2013 Author Posted August 23, 2013 So, took my fuel tank to Melwide Radiators as there was plenty of rust and scale inside after sitting with no fuel in it for nearly 20 years also had a decent dent in the bottom and I needed the original fuel sender and pipes covered over. They quoted $400 to cut the tank in half, media blast inside and out, tin the whole of the inside so it wont rust again, weld it all back together weld in the plate for the fuel module and cover over the original sender and pipe holes. They cut the tank on the top side of the original flange where the factory joins the two halves so the welds aren't seen from underneath the car. In the first photo below you can see the welds, not the greatest looking but he pressure tests and guarantees no leaks. He did a good job on the lead filling and covering of the original sender and pipes. Reasonably happy with the outcome given the hours they put in, only thing I would do differently is pick it up as soon as its finished because in the week I left it sitting there the acid they use to tin the inside had put surface rust on all of the media blasted outside! Managed to get it inside my blasting cabinet and give it a clean up then gave it a coat of etch primer straight away. Couple of little dings that will get a wipe of bog before it gets properly painted. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 6, 2013 Author Posted September 6, 2013 So I need to get some clearance for my dual exhaust where it goes under the diff crossmember..... 1. Take two perfectly good crossmembers. 2. Attack with cut off saw. 3. Weld in 5mm plate and brace on back side. 4. Hey presto plenty of exhaust room. Quote
Riceburner Posted September 6, 2013 Posted September 6, 2013 I think the factory would be very happy with that sort of workmanship David. Do you plan to do it to the rear cross brace also? Quote
KatoKid Posted September 13, 2013 Author Posted September 13, 2013 Do you plan to do it to the rear cross brace also? Don't need to Gareth, there is enough room if you run them in the right place. Ive mocked up a couple of versions of the rear muffler as I just cant bring myself to like the stacked twin pipes ala 432 style. After speaking with Mick from Devonport I'm going to go with a muffler the same size as the Reinhard rear muffler with twin 2 1/4 inlet and the pipes merging inside to a single 3" outlet with a down-turned tip. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 13, 2013 Author Posted September 13, 2013 Given the amount of brake, fuel and oil lines I need to run I lashed out and bought an Eastwood flaring tool. A very nice piece of kit and brilliant to use. Because I have rotated the control valve on the top of the WRX steering rack 180 degrees I had to make new hardlines to the cylinder. I wish bending was as easy as flaring! Quote
KatoKid Posted September 13, 2013 Author Posted September 13, 2013 A box of stuff arrived from Summit which included my Russell EFI adapters http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/adapt_fit/fuel-efi.shtml . After reading a few comments about the ones without the screw on end caps coming off I thought this the safer way. One problem I didn't anticipate when trying to fit them to the BA/BF Falcon fuel module was the lack of space between where the tube comes up out of the module and does a 90 degree turn and the collar which the adapter end cap screws down on to. The "head" of the screw on end caps is 5mm thick which is plenty so I took 2mm thickness off this and it gave enough room to fit the end cap over the tube. Had to do this on two of the tubes, middle one was OK so all good now. Quote
Retro Z Posted September 13, 2013 Posted September 13, 2013 Hey Dave can i ask what the muffler will cost you?. I'm basically looking for the same thing as yours but in reverse with a 3 inch inlet and 2x 2.5 inch stacked tips/outlet. Quote
44014 Posted September 13, 2013 Posted September 13, 2013 This build is simply amazing dave big props! Can not wait till my thing is this clean underneath. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 14, 2013 Author Posted September 14, 2013 Hey Dave can i ask what the muffler will cost you?. I'm basically looking for the same thing as yours but in reverse with a 3 inch inlet and 2x 2.5 inch stacked tips/outlet. Tai, send a PM to Mick Bellinger zed240au. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 21, 2013 Author Posted September 21, 2013 So, wanna see what a thousand bucks looks like these days? Quote
KatoKid Posted September 21, 2013 Author Posted September 21, 2013 Couldn't believe how quickly it all adds up for the above...fuel lines, power steering lines and cooler, engine oil lines and cooler. At least the clutch line was cheap. Two sections made up by Better Brakes in Bayswater......one from the master cylinder under the dash then behind the heater box to a firewall fitting which uses the original hole where the choke cables went through. Second part goes from the firewall down to the slave cylinder. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 22, 2013 Author Posted September 22, 2013 BMW power-steering systems are renowned for overheating if the cars are tracked, most punters install a proper power-steering cooler in place of the typical loop of pipe (like most cars) that normally serves as the cooler. Under-driven pulleys are also an option but don't really fix the issue. Either way I couldn't use the original BMW loop of pipe due to a lack of space so a proper (albeit small) cooler was going to be needed. The original BMW loop cooler sits in front of the rack on the cross member and this logically is the best place for a proper cooler. I fabricated a bracket from 3mm plate that is welded to the lower front edge of the cross member and the cooler sits on top of that using rubber isolators top and bottom of the mounts. In the photos the bracket is just tacked for now and I need to get some nice stainless domed Allen head bolts and nylocks to finish it off. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 22, 2013 Author Posted September 22, 2013 The cooler is the largest I could practically fit in the available space....Harmonic Balancer sits very close at the top of the inlet and outlet hoses which required the cooler to be offset slightly for clearance. Lines are braided teflon -6 from the pump to rack and then to the the cooler with a -8 hose tail and rubber hose back to the reservoir. Quote
Riceburner Posted September 22, 2013 Posted September 22, 2013 So, wanna see what a thousand bucks looks like these days? Doesn't look like much does it Dave? It's good mechanical insurance and the last thing you want is cheapo coolers that spring a leak. Are you running a thermostat for the oil cooler and where are you going to locate it. Also how did you figure you'd need one? Edit: All these coolers mean track days are in order! Quote
KatoKid Posted September 22, 2013 Author Posted September 22, 2013 Are you running a thermostat for the oil cooler and where are you going to locate it. Also how did you figure you'd need one? Edit: All these coolers mean track days are in order! Gareth, M3's come standard with a pretty substantial engine oil cooler and there is a thermostat built into the oil filter housing where the cooler lines originate. The M3 oil filter housings and coolers are a popular add on for anyone modifying a lower spec M50/S50 series engine as they are a bolt on. The original M3 cooler is the same width as the radiator which it sits under but its only about 70mm high so its wide but narrow and again I couldn't use it as the front of the Z is just too small. In front of the radiator was the only option for me. There are three holes arranged in a triangular pattern on the front of the radiator support cross-member which lined up well with the Earls cooler I had chosen so like the PS cooler I used some 3mm plate to fabricate brackets and made the same rubber insulators as the PS cooler. Still need to add a lower bracket and the -10 hoses. Track days.....yeah probably! Quote
Agno Posted September 22, 2013 Posted September 22, 2013 This has to be above and beyond my favourite build on here. So much thought goes into everything and for that my hat goes off to you Sir. Quote
KatoKid Posted September 22, 2013 Author Posted September 22, 2013 Thanks Agno, sometimes I wonder why I'm doing this as I feel I spend more time planning and researching than I do actually working on the car! When I do finish a component and its come out well and I'm happy that's when the payback comes. Quote
620Z Posted September 22, 2013 Posted September 22, 2013 Looks great Dave. You have spent some much time and effort on this car. I hope you enjoy driving it for years to come. Any idea on putting a date to getting it on the road. I am actually putting an oil cooler (Finally) on my car in the next few weeks. So I printed a few of your pics and might steel your mounting design. Ha As for the cooler on the power steering. I am holding off on that for now. I am still amazed by your enthusiasm and dogged determination to finish this. Keep up the good work. Quote
620Z Posted September 23, 2013 Posted September 23, 2013 Dave have you done a mock up with your front sway bar in. You might find your P/S cooler is in the way? Just a thought. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted September 23, 2013 Moderators Posted September 23, 2013 Its time invested well with all that research done; saves you learning through delays and more cash if you just jump straight in. Like everyone..can't wait for the finished product! Quote
RB30X Posted September 23, 2013 Posted September 23, 2013 Where did you get your fittings and hose from? With a build like yours it would pay to find a cheap dealer such as those through ebay and it could save you hundreds. I know I used a guy with an ebay business, who was at least $5-10 cheaper/per fitting than most local stores. Quote
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