Sirpent Posted October 10, 2012 Author Posted October 10, 2012 OK another update in the lead up to the 17th / 18th of November So have burned about a grand of the stash in the past week, and will be hopefully building an engine trolley for the motor and trans and getting it across to Alloy Race Components in Mordialloc in the next week or two to get the adaptor made and the engine and gearbox married and back home in time for the chassis build day. The RX8 rack went out the window when the seller was unable to supply the EPS module to drive it, so after a lot of surfing and research I came up with a modern front mount alternative which I may try running using an electric power steering pump that the seller recommended out of a Mazda3, either that or the standard Benz pump. Pic below (Thanks to Dave KATO for the original Zed rack pic I lifted from one of his threads) shows an FG Falcon, these were acclaimed when they came out as they are engineered with avariale-ratio technology Quote: The rack-and-pinion steering gear now boasts variable-ratio functionality, for optimum low-speed steering sensitivity and a more relaxed tiller at higher speeds. While the old car’s 11.0-metre turning circle is retained, the 2.6 turns lock-to-lock is a 0.2-turn reduction, claimed to be achieved without a nervous feel during straightline driving. Another steering-relating change is the local-first adoption of a Y-shaped steering rack – an invention by Australian company Bishop Steering Technology. Porsche and BMW are among Bishop’s other customers. All measures up well with the mounts sitting well inside the rails of the engine compartment, column alignment shouldn't be an issue, only mod will need to be the mods needed for the tie rod ends. I'm also talking to a mob in Thomastown about having to full length RHS channels mandrel bent to the rails and back up under the rear hatch floor, this should allow for a lot easier and precise fabrication of the overall chassis as opposed to welding and gusseting sections together. So the purpose of this update is to do a final roll call, my hope is to have the entire drivetrain motor box diff and steering rack sitting in the fabricated chassis by EOB on the 18th. My son will be setting up a time lapse camera of the build over 2 days which will end up in a 10 or so minute grab of the entire process, so any interested parties still willing to assist or join in, your confirmation would really be appreciated. Cheers John Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted October 10, 2012 Moderators Posted October 10, 2012 Good to hear you are getting John to do the work on the adaptor plate.. I get him to do all my brake slotting...very quick and professional. Quote
Sirpent Posted October 13, 2012 Author Posted October 13, 2012 Good to hear you are getting John to do the work on the adaptor plate.. I get him to do all my brake slotting...very quick and professional. Yup Dimitri, John and I had a very long chat on the phone, and the guy definately knows what he is talking about, afterwards said he was eager to be part of the build as its the first time a manual box is being stuck on the rear of a M112. So had some RHS sitting around behind the shed, dragged it out and made up a trolley frame today, 1800 x 800, purchased some 100kg rated castors off Ebay and got out the MIG and did some welding. Should have it painted next weekend, engine mounts are here in Australia, and delivery is on Monday, next weekend I will mount the whole lot, box, and engine onto it and then transport the entire assy to John at Alloy Race Components. Cheers John Quote
garvice Posted October 13, 2012 Posted October 13, 2012 What is the reasoning behind the frame? Quote
Sirpent Posted October 13, 2012 Author Posted October 13, 2012 Transport the engine and box via trailor some 50 km each way, have it delievered back as a complete unit, do the test fit to the chassis, then back on the frame do I can work on the unit outside of the body later. Quote
garvice Posted October 13, 2012 Posted October 13, 2012 Would it be worth making it forklift friendly (I.E. some supports where the forks go) then so that it can be easily unloaded at the workshops? Quote
Sirpent Posted October 13, 2012 Author Posted October 13, 2012 Would it be worth making it forklift friendly (I.E. some supports where the forks go) then so that it can be easily unloaded at the workshops? Thats why its on wheels so it can be wheeled around, otherwise I will add some block and takle hooks to get it on and off. Quote
Sirpent Posted October 14, 2012 Author Posted October 14, 2012 Ready for wheels and mounting up next weekend. Quote
KatoKid Posted October 14, 2012 Posted October 14, 2012 Pretty yellow.....you know youre soaking in it! Jeeze, showing my age now. Quote
jamo240 Posted October 14, 2012 Posted October 14, 2012 sounds like you're well on the way John, but I can advise I am very happy with how the subaru rack worked out with the Nissan R33 skyline pump. It has a very nice weighting to it, and is noiseless. Cheers Jamo Quote
KatoKid Posted October 14, 2012 Posted October 14, 2012 ^^^^^what he said. Why reinvent the wheel? Quote
Sirpent Posted October 14, 2012 Author Posted October 14, 2012 sounds like you're well on the way John, but I can advise I am very happy with how the subaru rack worked out with the Nissan R33 skyline pump. It has a very nice weighting to it, and is noiseless. Cheers Jamo ^^^^^what he said. Why reinvent the wheel? Guess it's just me wanting to push every boundary, not indifferent to the two of you and the three of us as a whole when a lot of the purists here (Said with all love and respect) ask why don't these guys just run L series engines in their rides. Because the V6 wont be relying on the original Zed cross member, it gives me the option of looking at other alternatives, so as much as ppl may ask why I say why not lol guess I sound like Obama, "Yes we can" Anyhow, it's all good. Mounts should be here on my desk at work this morning all going well, and I'm itching to get everything mounted and off to John ASAP, this is the biggest hurdle I have to overcome with the drive train and chassis, once its out of the way, I can split the build into 2 and have the body done while I have clear access to work on the motor etc (Read Peter Mc LOL) Roll on the 17th and 18th Quote
NZeder Posted October 14, 2012 Posted October 14, 2012 Pretty yellow.....you know youre soaking in it! Jeeze, showing my age now. I even remember watching that in B&W too time stands still for no body old timer or should that be old "nancy boy" timer Quote
KatoKid Posted October 15, 2012 Posted October 15, 2012 Guess it's just me wanting to push every boundary, not indifferent to the two of you and the three of us as a whole when a lot of the purists here (Said with all love and respect) ask why don't these guys just run L series engines in their rides. Because the V6 wont be relying on the original Zed cross member, it gives me the option of looking at other alternatives, so as much as ppl may ask why I say why not lol guess I sound like Obama, "Yes we can" Anyhow, it's all good. Respect to you John for not taking the easy route! This will truly be a technical "tour de force" but I am glad you didnt go the Mazda EPS route as I could see too many potential issues to overcome that may take the shine off the whole project. Keep at it mate! Quote
Sirpent Posted October 15, 2012 Author Posted October 15, 2012 David This is one of the reasons I am really looking forward to having members like yourself, Peter Mc, Jamo, Dimitri, Rev and so many others I apologise not mentioning, the coming together of different idea's methods, problem solving and pure craftsmanship each will bring to the 2 days I have planned will make this all not only a reality but something I hope all can enjoy and take pride in their contribution in the future, its the culmination of everything good about this forum and creating a physical result as we did with Simon's car last year. Cheers John Quote
Sirpent Posted October 15, 2012 Author Posted October 15, 2012 A major Hick-up ! Ordered 2 mounts, only got 1 ! Now theres another 7 day wait for the second Fugger ! These things are enormous ! Quote
jamo240 Posted October 15, 2012 Posted October 15, 2012 Guess it's just me wanting to push every boundary, not indifferent to the two of you and the three of us as a whole when a lot of the purists here (Said with all love and respect) ask why don't these guys just run L series engines in their rides. Agree John, but having run two L-series in my Z (N/A and turbo), both of which went great, and now running an RB, I feel qualified to answer the question. I don't run the L-series because it's a clunker. The RB drivetrain is so much better (performance, refinement, fuel consumption, breathing etc etc etc) than the L-series it's hard to compare. The L-series was a great thing for it's day, and if you want to keep your car original, obviously it's the only way to go, but comparing it with 20+ year younger drivelines is the mutton vs lamb thing. Cheers Jamo Quote
Sirpent Posted October 15, 2012 Author Posted October 15, 2012 And Jamo I agree with you totally. Yes I tossed and turned over my decision, and came to the compromise that I would keep the original matching numbered L6 and only make mods that were easily reversable, bolt in. So in years to come, changing everything back to OEM if that was desired wouldnt be a drama. I love a well restored Zed like Adam Fairfax's in NSW, but to me pushing the envelope and achieving not only a good reliable but something that keeps you up at night plotting and planning is an experience in itself. Quote
jamo240 Posted October 15, 2012 Posted October 15, 2012 Yes indeed John, there is certainly a place for original cars. I too have kept my original bore, original numbers-matching L24 engine for the same reason. But I find the car a much more enjoyable thing to drive with a few improvements, as well as the fun of planning, researching and executing the modifications. Cheers Jamo Quote
Sirpent Posted October 21, 2012 Author Posted October 21, 2012 Well, Couldnt mount up the motor and box this weekend due to only one engine mount arriving during the week, so looks like next weekend now fingers crossed. In the meanwhile, looks like Im about to blow a load on a M800 Motec set up on Ebay that ends in a few hous time, some serious damage will be done if I win http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320999774637?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 So as always the parts hunt continues, and have done a fair load of reading on some of the ulternatives being used out there, came across some guys in the States using Camaro radiators, then worked out the measurements available on the S30 rads and what would fit width and depth wise in the S30 bay. Came up with this combo out of a BA / BF series Falcon, total cost for new All alloy V8 Rad and New Thermo's $322.00 delivered. Measurements overall (L) 76cm's (W) 46cm's (Thickness Rad and Thermo's) 40mm Any thoughts on the negatives of running this set up? Cheers John Quote
jamo240 Posted October 21, 2012 Posted October 21, 2012 Good to hear it's coming along John. I don't see a problem running the cross flow BA setup, and it will cool your engine no problem. Only issues to consider are packaging the mounting system, and the overflow bottle and coolant fill points. As you know, the original car did not have these, and you have to have them for the modern systems. Also, make sure you have considered how to bleed the air out of the system when you fill. Either the fill point has to be the high point, but if not, then you have to be able to bleed the air out of the system at the high points. In the case of my RB installation, I kept a bleed point above the cooling jacket in the inlet manifold to let the air out.. Finally, if the bleed point in the engine is higher than the fill neck of the radiator of overflow bottle, then you will need a stand pipe to provide a head of coolant to fill ensure there are no air pockets. Cheers Jamo Quote
Sirpent Posted October 21, 2012 Author Posted October 21, 2012 Hey Jamo You always pick up on these issues, good to see, the AMG has a cooling system bleed nipple in the system, so thats one issue out of the way. As the right hand skirt area will be devoid of the usual S30 ignition and electrical gear and wiring, Im planning to mount the pressure tank and also the intercooler tank in this general area along with a Johnstone CM30 water pump for the heat exchanger which should hopefully provide me with ample play to secure them at the correct relative levels. Ford sell bolt on brackets with the correct rubber bushes to seat the radiator and lock it in 4 places, you can see the pins welded onto the radiator. So all in all Im pretty confident that this rad set up will mimic the Benz set up and sit well within the provided Zed space. Cheers John Quote
KatoKid Posted October 21, 2012 Posted October 21, 2012 BA/BF should be fine. Lots of guys (not Z's) favour AU set up for the effectiveness of the fans so I'm assuming BA/BF will be as good but they do suck amp's. Having said that your alternator should be up to the task. Mine is a 130 amp to run all the BMW lecy bits so yours should be pretty similar? Quote
Sirpent Posted October 21, 2012 Author Posted October 21, 2012 hey david Yeah just checked, the benz is rated at 150 amp's so dont forsee any issues there either. As far as I can tell, the BAF/F set up is the same with minor cariation in overall height to the AU. Cheers John Quote
Sirpent Posted October 24, 2012 Author Posted October 24, 2012 Yup It's official, you all thought it and now I can confirm I am a nut case ! As I mentioned previously in this thread I wanted to get a custom made alloy donnut tank for the car which would sit in the spare wheel well, well I came across something that will do the job with some conversion, won it on Ebay last night. LPG donnut tank, for $5.50 ! Hey I figure if it dosent work, was $5.50 really going to kill progress on the car? Cheers John Quote
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