Hs30-01415 - 904 White And Blue Interior - Auto - 71

[GongZ]

Hi Gavin,

 

Does this car have the bolt on flange at the front of the driveshaft or a slip in yoke style?

According to my reading of the parts manual, the change-over was 8/71 build cars (auto and manual transmissions).

[gilltech]

 

 

Interestingly I was speaking to someone from NZ who is almost certain he saw blue interior 240z's before the days of Japanese grey imports.

Yep there sure were different colour interiors in NZ-delivered 240Zs. I recall seeing cars back in the day which had either a blue, dark red or tan interior, and thought them a bit of a curiousity at the time. Of course non-black colours weren't very popular, not being seen as very 'sporty', so some owners changed the whole interior colour often just using vinyl spray. (Some pretty much had to when they opted to completely change the exterior colour). Wish I'd taken more photographs back then, but it was pre-digital.

The NZ car assembly plants closed one-by-one in the '80s and ex-JDM grey imports (called 'Jap imports' over there) completely took over. A number of S30 cars of a range of years turned up, some early '240 style' others '260 style' and 2+2 but all the ones I saw had black interiors.

Edited November 25, 2017 by gilltech

[gilltech]

 

 

I was always wondering if the AU market owners manual was different to the US spec manuals, but unfortunately they are the same. So any old US manual will do for those wanting to have the original look for their cars.

Yes basically the same but, well, there are some differences. FWIW, I have the following:

1973 240Z manual, dated 1st Nov 1972, obtained NOS from the USA, for a LHD car. Publication no. OM3E-0S30U0

1974 260Z manual, dated August 1974, obtained NOS from the USA, for LHD. Publication no. OM4E-0S30U5

260Z manual, dated July 1974, this I obtained used here in Australia, is also for a LHD car but has differences to the above and it also includes a wiring diagram inside the rear cover. Publication no. OM5E-0S30G0

Yet the manual which I got with my NZ-new '74 260 is dated March 1978 (obviously not the original) and it covers both LHD and RHD controls. Publication no. OM8E-0S30G2

Some clues are there in the publication numbers.

Edited November 25, 2017 by gilltech

[Ponyo240z]

Well done Gav, great looking car and thanks for sharing.

Love the white and Blue also and I don't mind the cobra rims either.

[gav240z]

Hi Gavin,

 

Does this car have the bolt on flange at the front of the driveshaft or a slip in yoke style?

According to my reading of the parts manual, the change-over was 8/71 build cars (auto and manual transmissions).

I will need to check for you next time I'm down there. Just got another auto box today which is the slip in yoke style as a spare. So kind of hoping it's the later style.

 

PB260 has donated an original style fuel pump and Locky donated the insulator for mounting it. So now just need to get some fuel lines and hose clamps etc..

[PB260Z]

PB260 has donated an original style fuel pump and Locky donated the insulator for mounting it. So now just need to get some fuel lines and hose clamps etc..

So what are you waiting for

[gav240z]

Time...

[gav240z]

So crowd sourcing has paid off, I tried to find out what the wheels that came with the car were. I could not find anything on them.

Turns out that according to Kyusha Shoes they are Fuji Auto Cobras.

Which must be rare because even knowing their names I see no information in a Google Search for them.

Not listed on. http://kyushashoes.com either.

[theremm]

Interesting.. Gotta say, I really love those wheels

[gav240z]

So I finally got down to go see the car again and see what it really needs. I haven't driven the FD in a while, and since the car is stored out West towards the Blue Mountains there is a good run along the freeway, which is my favorite type of driving to do in the car.

 

It's got quite a bit more dust on it than when I last saw it. From sitting in the shed.

 

First thing I did, was remove the god awful cold air intake thing..

 

Then I removed the seat covers, which were deteriorating and flaking anyway.

 

The drivers side base has seen better days..

 

The passenger side is in much better shape (no rips).

 

The rear plastics have faded over time, so the blue looks greenish now.

 

 

 

 

[gav240z]

Blue interior with seats covers removed.

 

OEM arrow tip antenna and harada motor.

 

For some reason both strut tower plastic covers are cracked.

 

In amongst a bunch of stuff with the car was the original rubber strips (dent protectors) that have fallen off on the drivers side. They appear to be stuck on with glue (not drilled in like in US market cars I've seen). Not sure what kind of adhesive would work best here? But I will need to straighten them out as they are a bit out of shape after being wrapped up. I was worried about finding matching strips, but thankfully I have the missing bits.

 

 

I refitted the passenger door trim so it is less likely to get damaged sitting in the boot of the car.

 

 

[gav240z]

Here is something that I overlooked the first couple of times, Datsun branded mudflaps!

 

 

 

Never seen these before, I am guessing dealer fitted perhaps? Might also have helped reduce rust as the crud was less likely to enter the wheel arch area and sit there.

 

Compliance plate - doesn't state transmission is Auto.. however dealer delivery documentation says "auto" so if I do convert to a 71A box, there will always be a breadcrumb back to it.

 

 

Here is where my nightmare begins.. aftermarket alarm system.

 

However I threw a battery in it, and tested some of the electrics.

- Yes I did dust it a little lol..couldn't help myself.

 

 

1. Headlights, tail lamps, instruments all light up.

2. Radio is working - when I saw the car before buying we couldn't hear any noise out of it, but today I managed to hear it working, which is a bonus! But Antenna switch is not expanding/retracting the antenna. Will need to look into it.

3. The aftermarket alarm appears to have some kind of kill switch below the steering column..

 

At first it wouldn't crank, but after messing about with it for a bit I managed to get it to kick over. I still haven't figured out exactly what sequence of events I need to do to disable the alarm / immobilizer system, but I had to figure it out twice. I may write it down if I can get it 100% confirmed.

 

I will eventually remove the alarm system and immobilizer and return the loom to stock I think.

 

She cranked over, but I think no fuel is getting to the engine, previous owner told me it started with a can of "start ya bastard" sprayed down the carb throats so I think his electric fuel pumps (that kept giving grief) has probably died. I tried to hook up the mechanical pump but I need to get some new hoses and jubilee clips.

The previous owner told me he just put water in the radiator - which concerned me as I had no idea how long it was sitting and was worried may be corrosion issues, but I checked the radiator and it's got green coolant in there, so although it could have been sitting a while like that, I think that's better than straight water in it. I'll flush it once I've got it running.

 

I hadn't intended to work on the car, just go see it and write a list of stuff, as I was not appropriately dressed for working on a car in a greasy old garage. However once there I couldn't help myself. May head back tomorrow, really want to get it to fire up and run again on it's own.

 

But the free cranking motor and working electrics is a positive. 

 

 

[gav240z]

Also had a better look at the hubcaps. 1 is mangled - which the previous owner told me, it fell off and got collected by another car apparently.

 

I actually think I might be able to straighten it out and repair it, but worst case scenario the center D badge is salvageable.

 

The other 3 are very good!

 

The alarm is that old, that the phone numbers are too short to dial today.

 

I also found this switch on the dashboard. Toggle switch where hazards go, lights up yellow. I suspect it would have been for a defrost glass? But the car has a non-defrost rear glass.

 

 

So not really sure what it does yet.

 

[gav240z]

I'm putting this easter egg here as a reminder for myself. (Forgot I posted this here)

https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/datsun-makers-group/things/page:1

 

 

When I was putting the door card back on I found the little plastic washer that goes behind the window crank. On my 72 240z I'm missing these and keep forgetting to source them.

 

However the above link has a template for 3D printing these. So I might give that a try.

[gilltech]

Can't you just cut some out of a plastic ice cream container using your one as a pattern? They're completely concealed. Low tech solution.

[gav240z]

Yes, but I'll need to buy ice cream then!

[Cozza]

Or raid someone’s yellow bin.

[RAP260]

Or raid someone’s yellow bin.

"No, officer, I'm fine. Just looking for spare parts for my Datsun"

 

I have a vision of Gav walking the streets, peering in bins... Lol

Edited May 30, 2018 by RAP260

[gilltech]

Young fellas. Always going looking for high-tech solutions, with scanners, 3D printers, etc etc when very often just a pen and paper, or a pair of scissors, are needed.

Or maybe they don't know how to use a pen and paper.....

But everyone likes ice cream... 

[andyk_79]

Young fellas.

 

But everyone likes ice cream...

Aren't most young people either vegan or lactose intolerant these days?

[Cozza]

Aren't most young people either vegan or lactose intolerant these days?

Haha, so true.

We’ve bred a bunch of weirdos.

[PB260Z]

Hi Gav

 

That rubber strip is a local dealer added extra that was very popular in the 70’s and early 80’s

Sold off a roll with adheasive backing, usually at very high profit.

From memory made by 3M.

Commonly called “Protection Strips”

 

Cheers

 

PB

[GongZ]

Brand name = Protecta Strip

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13938-andrews-yellow-240z-sydney-australia/?do=findComment&comment=165247

[gav240z]

So today was spent removing the electric fuel pump.

 

Interestingly, the pump itself was warm, but I don't believe it was pushing fuel.. I haven't tested it off the car though to verify, but when I removed it hardly any fuel came out of the lines and it seemed to be on the side of entry not exit from the pump. Whilst an electric pump would be a good idea, I'm not confident it's a good enough pump and more reliable than the mechanical OEM ones. Also the wiring job on it, left a bit to be desired (exposed wiring without rubber caps to protect from rain water / crud under the car etc..). So I'm glad to remove it.

 

 

I tried to crank the motor with the mechanical fuel pump hooked up and 1 end open in a container (old water bottle), but as I cranked no fuel was coming out... I thought it odd.

 

So I removed the valve cover as I thought maybe they removed the offset lobe on the cam sprocket that drives the mechanical finger on the pump. However when I lifted the valve cover it was still there. So I pushed the pump finger with my hand and fuel came up.

 

 

The colour of the fuel was very yellow, looked like "piss" to be honest and smelt a bit like varnish. So I'm not sure how old it is, but I am guessing it's not helping much?

 

I also replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay (but the old 1 didn't appear blocked), the spark plugs looked very blackened with carbon etc.. which I thought can't be helping so I replaced those with new ones too.

 

I could not get it to fire up however, despite cranking for many 30 second intervals (max), I am thinking fuel is not making it to the float bowls so i'm going to take a look there next.

 

I may need to bring a can of start ya bastard too, so I can verify it will actually run if it gets fuel into it. That way I know it's not an ignition issue. I guess if it fired up right away it wouldn have been too easy.

 

The 1 unknown here is the alarm system and toggle switch under the dash, I can't help but think it might have been a fuel cut switch? Or ignition kill. So I am not sure if that's a problem also.

 

So current plan of attack.

1. Get can of start ya bastard and spray it down the throat of the SU's, see if it will kick over or even sputter.

2. Replace old fuel hoses (already have new ones) and verify mechanical pump is actually pumping fuel up when driven off cam (I verified pump worked, with hand, but not sure if there would be any reason for it to not work off the cam?)

3. Check ignition system for spark.

4. Check compression (if req.).

5. Drain old fuel, put new fuel in.

6. Verify fuel is making it to the SU fuel bowls.

 

If the above all seems good and it still won't run. Then look at wiring loom.

 

I do have an electronic distributor to replace the points (stock 1 on there), but figure first verify it can run as is before removing and testing with electronic distributor and introducing any other unknowns.

[Cozza]

Hi Gav

Did you try looking for spark from one of the leads?

This can be done by removing a lead from a spark plug and sliding the plug lead rubber cap up the lead and holding the end of the lead terminal near (but not touching) the plug or engine block whilst cranking the engine to see if there is any spark jumping from the lead across to an earth.

Not that this eliminates any ignition system problems but, it is nice to know if f you have spark or not.

 

Cheers

Mick