280Zx - Back On Track

[Dbeat16]

Hey guys

Have just bought an auto '82 280zx, decided log my adventures with it. I saw the car advertised on gumtree, flew down to newcastle from Brisbane, bought the car and drove back the next day. Amazingly lucky i didn't break down, I know. Anyway, I've attached a few photos of the car, some parts that came with it and the engine. Everything runs perfectly, all the electricals work and is a blast to drive. Few things I have noticed are a fairly steering smell of petrol, the car pulls to the left a little and I'm fairly sure the speedo isn't completely accurate. All in all though I'm very happy with it and think I've got a good starting point to make something awesome.

Declan

Edited June 29, 2017 by Dbeat16

[Dbeat16]

Gave it a clean then took it down to the water for a photoshoot, here's the best result.

[Dbeat16]

Just had it looked at for a rwc, turns out that despite it being registered in NSW there is no way it will be registered in QLD without some serious reconditioning. Guess some things are too good to be true huh?

[andyk_79]

Disappointing but not surprising on a close to 40 year old car.  I know when bringing a car TO NSW it is treated as though it is unregistered and goes through a full unregistered vehicle inspection (put over the pits etc)

[Dbeat16]

Yeah tis the same crossing the other way, we'll I guess it's all an adventure huh?

[PB260Z]

Hi,

 

That is a shame, but in some ways not exactly suprising.

When you say "serious reconditioning" what exactly are you talking about ?

 

Cheers

 

PB

[Cozza]

Disappointing but not surprising on a close to 40 year old car. I know when bringing a car TO NSW it is treated as though it is unregistered and goes through a full unregistered vehicle inspection (put over the pits etc)

Interesting, I have been looking for a new used family car, and searching all along the east coast. I thought a blue slip is all that's required to register an interstate car in NSW. Is it not? Is there something else?

[road rider]

'280ZX-Starting At The Bottom'

If you had purchased a 300ZX(first series,Z31), I would have agreed with you!

You could have done a lot worse than a 280ZX  And at least yours is a series two.

Has rack and pinion steering, R200 diff and C/V drive shafts. 

Shame it wasn't a manual

 

So what needs attention?

Can I ask what you paid for it

 

Hope it all works out in the end

[Dbeat16]

Haha yes indeed shame about the transmission, i have plans to fix that at some point in that nebulous point in time "the future". From what little i was told before a shake of the head and a cloud of dust i understand that basically everything rubber that could be worn out, has done so. I believe new tires might be in the works as well and exhaust needs checking, along with the timing belt and a few other knick knacks. And, of course, there is the rust. A little bit in the engine bay, all along the top of the windshield, a bit on the bonnet and around the fuel cap. I paid 2500 for it, which i considered reasonable, conidering i could actually drive the thing, and around 100 kg of parts in the back of it too. Im bringing it to a mechanic tomorrow for a full inspection, does anyone know a good reliable place in brisbane that cuts and fixes rust? That is a fairly high priority on my to do list.

[andyk_79]

Interesting, I have been looking for a new used family car, and searching all along the east coast. I thought a blue slip is all that's required to register an interstate car in NSW. Is it not? Is there something else?

Yeah blue slip is what I was referring to

[260DET]

You are not going to fix the rust yourself? It's expensive to outsource, paying others to fix the car generally can quickly send costs out of control. 

[Dbeat16]

I'm aiming to do as much as I can, for sure, but there are some things I will have trouble with so nice to have options I think. One other thing, is there much of a difference in quality for bushing? Will need to replace all of it and there are quite a few places selling them, not sure whether to spring for the expensive stuff, but will if it is worth it of course.

[Dbeat16]

Welp, got it back from the mechanic and it certainly isn't what I was hoping for. The bottom is full of bog, both the rails are destroyed and to my relatively untrained eyes, it looks like everything possible is leaking. I've put the list of what the mechanic found before he gave up, I'll put up pics of the problem areas later.

Edited June 7, 2017 by Dbeat16

[gav240z]

Well on the plus side the valve cover is worth a bit. It's the LARGE Nissan cover. Which is rare now. Every American will chew your arm off for it, but when you quote a price will go quiet haha.

 

Now is the time to decide if you keep it or move along I think (before you spend large). How much bog are we talking and how much will the rust repair cost? Do you still love it?

[Dbeat16]

I think the best way to describe it would be to liken it to a baby. It's new, and i love it, but it just shat itself for the

First time. I really don't know how much rust fixing would be, someone might be able to guess based on the pics I'll put up later?

[Dbeat16]

Also, which valve cover is this sorry? Cash is always useful.

[gav240z]

This 1..

 

You can see difference here:

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13512-nissan-big-valve-cover/

 

Do you know what cylinder head you have? Is it N42 or P90 or something else? It's usually stamped just above the spark plugs toward the front of the engine block.

 

[Andrew_L26]

All the mechanical issues aren't something to worry about (being realistic) as (if you are willing to do the work yourself) you should be able to recondition all the suspension yourself. Mounts for the gearbox, engine and diff can be DIY'd:

(I will be trying this method on my rear diff mount)

 

Valve cover leaking oil is standard, a 30$ gasket from ebay will do the trick, a new waterpump gasket should fix the issue there. Ball joints shouldn't be more than 100$, I did my rear main seal when I did a manual conversion (Seal was only 12$ or so from bursons) Manual conversions can be done for under 500$ including a brand new clutch, brand new clutch master and brand new slave. Not sure about compression numbers on the motor? As far as I know none of the early z's had bumpstops from factory? Shocks are a pretty standard thing to replace (you can DIY it using multiple ratchet straps to compress springs (you didn't hear that from me)) Tires are easy, you could get some second hand ones from gumtree for a good price if you want to save some money. 

 

Most of this is from my S30 cheapskate knowledge but things can be done affordably if you're willing to do the work, make a few mistakes, learn from your experiences and wait around on these forums and gumtree until a cheap part comes up.

 

Your issue will be rust! If you can get your hands on a decent welder, practice a fair bit you can do all of the work yourself which will cost hardly anything compared to paying someone to do it. Which rails are you talking about, the ones in the engine bay or under the floor pans? Floor pan ones won't be a huge job but for the engine bay ones they can cost upwards of 4k to have replaced properly.  RUST RUST RUST, everything else is cheap and easy (if you can DIY it anyway)

 

Andrew

[Linton]

going by your list I think you need another quote myself,  every mount is stuffed? and the water pump is leaking oil?? yeah right,, sounds like you are getting fleeced to me...not worth commenting on the rest of it,  rusty sure that will need attention and oil leaks fixed

[d3c0y]

Yeah I vote for getting a second opinion. Mobile RWC guys can be pretty lenient if you are keeping the car for yourself.

[road rider]

Sorry to hear about the issues with the car.

Sometimes the bargain you think you are getting doesn't always work out.

 

There are some sweet 280ZX's out there, but they usually go for between $10-15K

A bit more than 2.5K, but then restoring yours will set you back even more.

Rust is a problem for all Z-ZX's and fixing it properly doesn't come cheap unfortunately.

[Dbeat16]

Where do you think I should take it to have the rust appraised? Or who? If they are a mobile unit that would also be fantastic, cos I'd prefer not to drive it for really apparent reasons. Alternatively, anyone here in the know want to do so for a slab or something? And finally, how high would I need to raise the car to work on all that myself? I'm quite confident in my ability to swap parts around, I've been doing do as a job on kitchen appliances.

[Dbeat16]

Here's a link to all the pics I took of the problem areas, hopefully there's nowhere I missed. http://s50.photobucket.com/user/Declan15199/library/?sort=3&page=1

[Andrew_L26]

Where do you think I should take it to have the rust appraised? Or who? If they are a mobile unit that would also be fantastic, cos I'd prefer not to drive it for really apparent reasons. Alternatively, anyone here in the know want to do so for a slab or something? And finally, how high would I need to raise the car to work on all that myself? I'm quite confident in my ability to swap parts around, I've been doing do as a job on kitchen appliances.

I'd get one of the guys from here to check out your car as a lot of body shops may over assess the issue and not take into account that you would like to give some of it a crack. Doesn't look too bad to me but it's really hard to tell just from photos. If you want to do the work yourself I would suggest investing in a good quality floor jack (300$ new or buy a second hand one) as cheap ones will not give you the height needed. Obviously some decent quality jack stands as well. Your standard jack stands maxed out will give you enough room to work (though it may still be tight for jobs like the rear main seal)

[Linton]

Apart from the rust it is not real bad, what you need to do is get the car to some one that can lift it up and pressure wash the entire under carriage, I think you will find it is not as bad as you thought, replace the rocker cover gasket, fix the leak at the auto oil pipe, to the radiator, and maybe rear g/box seal. Oil doesn't, make a mess forward of the oil leak but it does go backwards and might explain the oil that is all over the place rear wards of the engine. With  4 jack stands locked at full height and you can do just about any thing under the car, buy good quality stands not the cheap ones that you slide the pin into the holes and place them as far out as you can, Don't put them under the sill panels or the radiator support. never work under the car with just a jack holding the car up, I have lost a couple of good friends from doing that.

I think had you washed it all down before the check I am sure you would have got a much better report. Good luck it's a journey that's for sure

HTH