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Posted

Make sure you wear gloves when installing and thoroughly clean them before starting motor or you may get fingerprint spots etch into the stainless. Just ask gareth.

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Posted

Can I ask what the full Fujitsubo system cost once landed and imported to your door etc..? If you would rather PM feel free to do so?

Posted

Can I ask what the full Fujitsubo system cost once landed and imported to your door etc..?

 

Was close enough to $1900

 

Roughly $1350 for the parts ($625 each for the exhaust and the headers)

$650 odd for shipping and commission (Jesse Streeter)

 

Considering the quality and what it can cost to get an exhaust bent up anyway I was happy to pay that.  I could have got the exhaust without the headers to save some money but that could have meant a lot of stuffing around to fit my existing headers (get flanges machined, welding etc) so I went the whole hog.  They will be on the car for a very very long time and I know I'll smile every time I look at them!

 

Will list my existing headers (which are reasonable anyway) for sale once they're off.  I think they might be Genie/Pacemaker or similar extractors - haven't seen a brand stamped anywhere.  Might be factory if they came with extractors from the factory (again showing my ignorance of the smaller details).  Not sure if any of the existing exhaust will be saleable.

Posted

I've got the 432 style exhaust also and do not regret paying for it one bit. And smiling to yourself every time you see your car from behind.. It's all worth it!

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Posted

Was close enough to $1900

 

Roughly $1350 for the parts ($625 each for the exhaust and the headers)

$650 odd for shipping and commission (Jesse Streeter)

 

Considering the quality and what it can cost to get an exhaust bent up anyway I was happy to pay that.  I could have got the exhaust without the headers to save some money but that could have meant a lot of stuffing around to fit my existing headers (get flanges machined, welding etc) so I went the whole hog.  They will be on the car for a very very long time and I know I'll smile every time I look at them!

 

Will list my existing headers (which are reasonable anyway) for sale once they're off.  I think they might be Genie/Pacemaker or similar extractors - haven't seen a brand stamped anywhere.  Might be factory if they came with extractors from the factory (again showing my ignorance of the smaller details).  Not sure if any of the existing exhaust will be saleable.

 

$1900 is a good price considering how much work it would be to make a set, I've seen some headers in Japan cost close to that on their own!

 

Going with a full package makes sense and you'll have a better overall finish as a result no doubt!

 

S30z's came with cast exhaust manifolds. They look like this. Not many still have these things fitted after 40 years of service.

36623d1276877869-exhaust-manifold-question-1971-240z-e30.jpg

 

NB: Photo is a US car, with extra emission tubes going into the headers for an air pump?? (I think).

 

I think your only concern with fitting this exhaust system is that the rest of your engine bay may look a little bland in comparison.

Posted

 

S30z's came with cast exhaust manifolds. They look like this.

 

I think your only concern with fitting this exhaust system is that the rest of your engine bay may look a little bland in comparison.

 

Thanks Gav - the existing ones are definitely not factory then !!

 

And yes my engine bay will look a little sad I think ....... especially in current stock form until I get either triple carbs or injection with ITBs and get the engine work done.  Here's hoping next years bonus is a cracker so that I can start getting into all those fun parts (and get back to living in a house of our own of course)

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

The bits of work the mechanic is looking after have finally started now !  Steering rack and brake booster are off and have been delivered to the respective rebuilders.  A lot of the taking apart is underway - still some parts to come (the ones I hadn't organised myself) before the putting back together happens.  Estimate is currently 2 to 3 weeks from mechanic for everything to happen, which I'll double to 4 to 6 weeks to avoid disappointment.

 

Outside chance I might have a roadworthy, registered Z for the October drive

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Have made quite a few noob mistakes already along the way it would appear.  I bought standard sized shocks and with the car at the mechanic's workshop I didn't even think of trying to get the struts measured/checked before buying, only to now discover the tops of the struts have been trimmed/machined for a shorter shock.  Spring perches have not been moved at all, just the top of the strut changed slightly.

 

Letting the mechanic source the shocks now !!

 

Set of Koni Reds to go up for sale once sorted............

Posted

Well time for a proper update rather than an agony aunt random post now and then - mainly been putting little updates for my own posterity so sorry if everything is a bit boring for people to read !!

 

The car comes back from the mechanic tomorrow.  Some of you may have worked out that after umming and aaahing over how much work to take on myself I ended up getting the mechanic to do a lot of it (not all of it), especially the fiddly stuff.  Mainly at the suggestion of my wife who didn't want to come to 2 years down the track with me still fiddling away with an unregistered car !  I am a bit clumsy so I think this was a good option and whilst I know I could have saved some labour costs I think this was a good option.

 

Perhaps the best news was that the Koni Reds ended up being able to be fitted and I didn't have to try and buy set of shocks number 3 (first set of Tokicos I got stuffed around and ended up getting a refund).  In cleaning out the crap at the bottom of the strut it turned out there was a concave washer in there as a spacer.  These were removed and new retainer nuts were machined up with slightly longer threads so that the konis could be accomodated in the slightly trimmed strut.

 

Done and ticked off:

 

  • Steering rack rebuilt, including new inner tie rods made, new rack bushes machined
  • Outer tie rods and ball joints replaced
  • Brake booster rebuilt, master cylinder and brake hoses replaced, brake system completely flushed
  • Worn shocks replaced with Koni Reds, springs replaced with King Lows
  • Auto trans adjusted (was in reverse when shifter said park) and serviced
  • Diff gasket and seals replaced
  • Car rebushed from nose to tail - interesting to see how hard the ride is on the energy suspension nolathane bush kit I bought.  Some of the bushes were well and truly stuffed and some force required to remove
  • Basic tune done to get the engine running properly.  I need to get a full dyno tune done to get the SUs better but at the car is drivable and running a lot better now.  Going to fit a pertronix kit (probably later once registered) to make the dizzy electronic so will get the dyno tune done after taking this on
  • Full service including all the usuals like spark plugs, points, dizzy cap, filters etc
  • coolant hoses and water pump replaced
  • Ignition barrel replaced

 

The mechanic is putting trade plates on and driving the car back to me rather than me having to pay for another tow, which has got me a little excited because it shows how far it has come !

 

Still to do on the short term list:

 

  • Re-foam and recover the seats.  The seatcovers and foams were the first parts to arrive when I started ordering parts but are looking like they'll be one of the last things to go in
  • Install the new carpet and sound deadener
  • Sort out the lights.  Mechanic has referred me to a local auto electrician he uses for this sort of stuff.  The sparky has suggested dropping it off and given the age of the car getting it completely rewired.  I am understandably a little hesitant to go through this process so I'll go through and replace fuses, fusible links, lamp etc (car came with a new spare set of lamps) before going down the rewire path !!  I'm thinking of replacing the fuse box with one of the bolt-in ones from MSA with the more modern fuses while I've got the console out for the carpet but am researching whether there was any difference between the USA and AUS delivered 240s in terms of fuse box and fuse box loom
  • Fit up my shiny exhaust !
  • Tyres for roadworthy and a wheel alignment
  • Get rid of ghetto blaster speakers sitting loose in the boot that one of the previous owners has wired in - don't fancy one of those smacking me in the back of the head under heavy braking and I suspect any roadworthy inspector will feel the same way.  Seriously who does that!  I know the factory speakers were close to useless but seriously!!

 

I'm aiming to have the car finished and registered before the end of November, depending on how much grief the lights/electrics give me.

 

Then I can focus on the other bits and pieces and I want sorted.  The plan is still to keep the car period sympathetic as much as I can.

Posted

 

Some of you may have worked out that after umming and aaahing over how much work to take on myself I ended up getting the mechanic to do a lot of it (not all of it), especially the fiddly stuff.  Mainly at the suggestion of my wife who didn't want to come to 2 years down the track with me still fiddling away with an unregistered car

 

She makes a good point, it will take you ages to get it on the road and I can see the appeal of outsourcing most of the work. It'll bring you joy sooner rather than constant frustration.

 

That's not to say that spending time working on the car isn't considered fun and many enjoy this more than the actual ownership of a functional car. It takes all sorts. ;)

Posted

Fern has returned !!!

 

Aside from the above list of what's left, the brake hoses haven't been changed because they were seized onto the hard lines.  I'll take it to a brake shop that can shape a new set of hard lines before I stuff the shape of the old ones to the point where they're a useless template.

 

Also what was originally thought of as being just some adjustment needed to the shift linkages turns out to be worn shift linkages where the linkages connect to the T bar.  I've posted up in the wanted thread trying to get hold of a replacement, but once I've taken out the seats and the console this week I'll take a look at exactly how it all works to see what can possibly be done.

 

Quickly found out what you guys already knew - a 42 year old car is like peeling back an onion, with each new layer there is a new set of tears ! I keep thinking of Shrek when Donkey says "You're so busy peeling back the layers onion boy..."

 

The other slightly ominous thing was that for the first time it started blowing a lot of smoke when I was driving it into the garage when the engine was under load.  I am hoping that it is just that it still needs a proper dyno tune (although it is running 10 times better than it was) and that the accumulated crap of not running for however long just needs to be blown out.  If not then the engine build that was 2 to 3 years away might happen a little sooner.  I was not popular when after reversing it into the garage with the internal access door open the whole lower level of out townhouse stank !

 

Anyway some photos.

 

Loving the stance now that the King Lows have been fitted.  Also seeing how it looks now I'm thinking I might even keep the original rims (I guess they are factory but happy to be corrected).  They've grown on me somewhat !!

 

2014-10-22181419_zps9a6863a6.jpg

 

I could quite easily waste a lot of time staring at photos of Z's, but especially one I own!  They are just such a great looking car

 

2014-10-22181430_zps46f58bda.jpg

 

 

Posted

Very nice mate! Like the color a lot.

 

Those wheels are 260z alloys, so they're definitely a period mod. Guess lots of 240z owners might have fitted the 260z alloys to 'keep up with the times'

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Posted

With regard to the engine smoke it could just be the valve stem seals. They harden up over time and can stop sealing out oil from leaking down the valves and into the combustion chamber. This happens if a car has been sitting for a while also.

 

The seals themselves are dirt cheap, but you gotta remove the camshaft and tappets to get to them so labour is where it gets expensive.

 

Do a compression test to see how healthy each cylinder is, if they are all good it could just be the valve stem seals, but a compression test usually doesn't tell you if the oil control rings are toast.

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Posted

By the way you'd be surprised how good those wheels could look with a good polish.

Posted

Do a compression test to see how healthy each cylinder is, if they are all good it could just be the valve stem seals, but a compression test usually doesn't tell you if the oil control rings are toast.

 

Thanks Gav.  There was a compression test done as part of it all.  Don't remember the exact numbers (I think the range was from about 140 odd PSI to 150 odd across the 6 cylinders) without the paper in front of me but the mechanic said it was pretty good and reckoned I should be happy.  Hmmmmm, cam out for valve seals - I can hear the sound of a cash register dinging with a new profile cam being rung up............

 

 

Thanks George.  I think that has sealed the decision - a new set of rims are now not on the wanted list.  I might PM Wittie/Dad for some tips

Posted

If it blows smoke under load - I suggest it's oil rings

If it blows smoke on over-run, idle or when you very first move off, then I suggest it's stem seals.

 

The stem seals leak most when there is high manifold vacuum (something that is likely to have increased with a tune and replacing a few leaky hoses) as the engine is trying to draw air into it against closed throttles - so it will pull it down from the rocker cover, past the stem seals and bring oil with it.  Manifold vacuum is at it's highest on over-run and then at idle (everytime the throttles are closed).

 

I hope this isn't an lesson on egg sucking and was of some help.

 

MaygZ

Posted

If it blows smoke under load - I suggest it's oil rings

If it blows smoke on over-run, idle or when you very first move off, then I suggest it's stem seals.

 

The stem seals leak most when there is high manifold vacuum (something that is likely to have increased with a tune and replacing a few leaky hoses) as the engine is trying to draw air into it against closed throttles - so it will pull it down from the rocker cover, past the stem seals and bring oil with it.  Manifold vacuum is at it's highest on over-run and then at idle (everytime the throttles are closed).

 

I hope this isn't an lesson on egg sucking and was of some help.

 

MaygZ

 

Not a lesson on egg sucking - I am first to admit a lack of knowledge so any pointers welcome!  So it does sound like it a fair chance of it being rings then - consistent smoke when under load.  As long as it passes emissions for roadworthy I'll leave it for now and take it for decent drive to hopefully blow some crap out of it.  If it is rings........... well I have some decisions to make around what to do with the engine while the head is off!

Posted

Common zed problem if you have been just driving it in and out of the garage, the engine will start to blow smoke from not having a decent run and can foul the plugs up. take it for a good run first and see what happens. if it still blows smoke and is using oil than you have a bigger issue.

Posted

Don't want to sound too nit-picky but I think they should be gunmetal, like the tailight panel and grill. Well I reckon it looks better gunmetal anyways.

 

5664100_0008.JPG

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