MikeZ

Exactly as you describe Dave. No flanges at the diff U joint, direct from the U joint to splined stub axel.
Lachlan has confirmed that these are probably Skyline half shafts, and it makes sense that they'd eliminate a set of flanges. He's also got some sets available so all sorted!
Thanks guys

No worries, glad you're sorted.  I was going to offer a 1600 shaft for you to either try or for me to measure up if you couldn't get what you needed, went down the shed for a look but all I have spare is a pile of worn out ones with dead uni joints and another pile like what you already have. The ones with splined end that I fitted to my brother's car were definitely from a 240K coupe, I pulled them out of it myself.
For completeness in case anyone is interested, the halfshaft is 400mm from diff flange to hub flange when fitted to a 1600 (well, when fitted to a rear suspension assembly sitting on the floor, may be a slight variations when in the car with weight on it).

If central bolt fixing system then they could be from an early Skyline, a 240K or an early 280ZX.

Do you have the halfshaft that is splined on the inner end and bolts direct into the diff with one central bolt, rathe than the more usual ones that have a flat flnge on either end and bolt onto a little stub axle that then is bolted into the diff ? I probably didn't explain that too well.....Anyway, I swapped out an R200 in a 260Z ages ago for an R180 out of a 240K, it used these different style of shaft so I had to swap both 240K diff and 240K shafts into the zed.
The original R200 260Z shafts I took out are now in my 1600, they fitted fine. I'm not going to guarantee it would work the same way, but perhaps 1600 shafts may work for you and be easier to find than R200 zed shafts ? Early 180B's also used the same shaft as 1600's till they swapped to the alternate style later in their model life.

They are exactly the same Mike.

Ok, looks like We can only have 15 max out side. And that’s not going to work. 
So let’s postpone the event to January. Sunday the 17th. Still with fingers crossed. Sorry for any inconvenience .
Hopefully by then 50 can be a realistic number.

This filter has only been used for 400km and is like new.
I'll throw in a bottle of ITG filter cleaning solution too. 
Cost me $600 to land from the US.
Selling for $400, pick up Melbourne south east or post at buyers expense. 
(picture from ITG website) 

Speak to Rob at the ZFactory in Melbourne : http://www.zfactory.com.au/price-lists.html

I finally replaced the oil feed tube for the camshaft in my 71 240z.
I was originally going to use the 1 out of the engine that was in HS30 00150, but as you can see it was quite bent! I have no idea how that would have happened, perhaps done deliberately to put more oil over the camshaft rockers (is my guess?). But it meant the plate that goes over the back of it wouldn't sit flush and there was all manner of gasket goo in between them and I wasn't confident it was a good idea to install it.
So instead I got the 1 sitting in the E31 head from HS30 00051 instead.

Here you can see the missing part on the L24 in my white 71 (HS30 01415).
NB: It has bolts holding it on (instead of countersunk screws?), I get the impression this 1 was messed around with previously also. Unless Nissan changed the design at some point?

Left is the bolts I took off HS30 01415 (white 71) and right is the countersunk screws I removed from HS30 00051's E31 head that held the oiler bar on.

FWIW I went with the bolts when installing the oiler bar since I could apply a bit more torque to them and felt they would hold the oil bar on better.

You can see the cam towers in early heads had a large orifice for the oil gallery, the oiler bar has a tiny orifice. I guess the forced oil into the oiler bar forces it out onto the valve train? (pressure change).

I degreased the oiler bar and removed any contaminants and then used compressed air to make sure all the holes were clear and not blocked up. My guess is HS30 00051's engine last ran 20 years ago..and has sat ever since then.
I do not plan to run the oiler bar on any of my 240z's in future. I'll be converting to the internally oiled camshafts which are a more robust and reliable design.
I ran the car after installing it and noted there is still a little valve train noise, but I am yet to adjust the valve clearances on this engine. The rocker cover gasket I used also seems to leak still. I think it's a poor quality gasket (most likely) so I guess I'll be removing the cover again. Good thing about these cars is everything is so accessible it's not a big deal.

After that I gave both cars a good wash (much needed).

Well I finally got the MSD 6AL fitted on the weekend. I also removed and sorted out a sticky choke tube on the front SU carb. Now that I have a Hall Effect dizzy and the MSD ignition I can say the car starts easier and idles much better and sounds crisper. I haven't had it out on the road yet, but soon. Getting a bit crowded under the bonnet now.

Thanks to @600Z, @260z_2+2, @Mike260, @RAP260, @RobDC, @XIV280 for all your recent donations.
I also received a donation from a Michael Co**an but I am not sure what username that is tied to here to add you to the donating member user group?
Please feel free to PM me if you want to be added to the donating members group. 

Created a little abomination by sticking together ebay special retro style radio and original hitachi fascia, few finishing touches and it'll be only distinguishable by the little buttons instead of traditional ones.
If there's any anyone on the forum with 3d printer the fascia could be easily printed and you have a good alternative to retro-sounds without breaking the bank! 

Thanks Mike260, I'll bear that in mind, thought much appreciated! I'll see how I go.
All good now thanks Mike. With the window still in there's very limited access into that blind top corner. But, finally, after a good deal of cussing and what seemed like an OTT amount of applied force the rod suddenly came free, and the nylon keeper looks none the worse. Replacement handle is on, looks much better, as the chrome on the old one had bubbled.
I made sure I wore gloves too as lots of sharp edges, have learnt the hard way previously when working inside doors.
Next job is to remove the lock mechanism itself.....
Looks like the rear window guide will have to come out first before the lock mechanism can be removed, just so I can examine it to see why it no longer locks. Neither the outside key nor the inner pull knob will operate the locking, so I must assume the problem is in the mechanism itself. Another fun job, not, best saved for another day.
 

I've got some spares still on my old original handles, the handles themselves are stuffed so if you get stuck I can send you the nylon part. 

This has been a multi-day effort, sorting through fasteners etc.. was the first step, which allowed me to finish the radio and the fuel pump and begin the rebuild on the Mikuni/Solex carbs and of course find the hardware for the steering wheel.
Sorting through replated bolts is not fun. I can thank Covid-19 for giving me idle time...
Nikki Fuel Pump is now rebuilt.
Mikuni/Solex carbs and associated parts are much better sorted now. I bought half of them in bits and with spares etc. so half of what I'm doing is sorting through what I do and don't have. Even that is a pain. With half my jets floating around in plastic bags. I have a few gasket kits but it turns out they are for the 5 screw lid, not 4 screw. There is likely a few hundred dollars of parts to order but since I'm not working I'm trying not to spend money on non-essentials at this point. So just doing things that have 0 cost. I'll order gaskets and jets and parts missing once the economy looks better and I've got some work again.
I've also been messing with the Antenna for the radio, putting power to the unit I can hear the motor, but the antenna mask doesn't extend, no idea why yet. It seems fused. Like corrosion is stopping it move.

I had nearly finished this steering wheel a couple of years ago and it's been sitting collecting dust. Until I got the hardware back and installed it and WOW, it just adds a new level to the restoration! Especially considering how poor the wheel looked before.
I got this wheel cheap off a friend in San Francisco (think it was $100 USD). And I put about $300 USD worth of effort into restoring it. :). This is for #51 when the time comes.

Should change this thread title to, "What have you done to your Z since Covid-19 Lockdown?"
I disassembled an AM radio a while ago that was damaged in transit (seller only put it in a cardboard box and the chassis took a good hard beating on the way over from Europe). Whipped the PCB off a corner. Which I repaired.
To remove the chassis from the circuit board you have to de-solder a few points (sadly). Which makes this tricky and time consuming..
Video of it working here.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VonPvkZ95MR1McA46
I still need to find the RF Choke which goes in the fuse holder, order a new fuse holder assembly and OEM plug (http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/66) and re-apply the model sticker/decal.
Greg Hassen I believe made reproduction labels here.
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/53334-wtb-hitachi-radio/?do=findComment&comment=502985
Condition of radio before.

After...

If there is interest in creating a step by step guide on how to disassemble these and re-assemble let me know? I have more radios to restore...

Today was a good day to get in the garage. I rebuilt a D609-56A distributor and installed a Hotspark ignition module with the recommended Beru Blue coil. This is a Hall effect module similar to Pertronic. With this system I can remove the ballast resistor. I only have to finish the wiring tomorrow and set the timing. This will replace the Crane XR700 that I had set up on another distributor. I have recently installed the 240z 3 screw twin carbs after giving them a good clean. So if all is good I may refit the front body panels and get it out on the street over the next couple of weeks. 
David.

I reckon this thread needs a fire up! I'm sure lots of people have a bit more spare time of their hands. 
I've been installing an Innovate wideband afr gauge and an sii-4 unit which accepts 4 inputs. I've got it logging afr, rpm and tps on the triple Webers, with a knock sensor on the way. 
This is all with the plan to road tune the Webers on the new motor coming soon.
I've found the Innovate products to be pretty easy to install and configure so far.
A couple of screenshots from a video:

 

I reckon this thread needs a fire up! I'm sure lots of people have a bit more spare time of their hands. 
I've been installing an Innovate wideband afr gauge and an sii-4 unit which accepts 4 inputs. I've got it logging afr, rpm and tps on the triple Webers, with a knock sensor on the way. 
This is all with the plan to road tune the Webers on the new motor coming soon.
I've found the Innovate products to be pretty easy to install and configure so far.
A couple of screenshots from a video:

 

I reckon this thread needs a fire up! I'm sure lots of people have a bit more spare time of their hands. 
I've been installing an Innovate wideband afr gauge and an sii-4 unit which accepts 4 inputs. I've got it logging afr, rpm and tps on the triple Webers, with a knock sensor on the way. 
This is all with the plan to road tune the Webers on the new motor coming soon.
I've found the Innovate products to be pretty easy to install and configure so far.
A couple of screenshots from a video:

 

I reckon this thread needs a fire up! I'm sure lots of people have a bit more spare time of their hands. 
I've been installing an Innovate wideband afr gauge and an sii-4 unit which accepts 4 inputs. I've got it logging afr, rpm and tps on the triple Webers, with a knock sensor on the way. 
This is all with the plan to road tune the Webers on the new motor coming soon.
I've found the Innovate products to be pretty easy to install and configure so far.
A couple of screenshots from a video:

 

Well it's taken some work. I was very nervous with the first start up close. Having put many hours hand building the motor all I wanted was oil pressure and for it to run.
What a great day it's been in lockdown.
VID20200328161858~2.mp4

So! The kit is installed and i can give you all some feedback on how it turned out (followed at some point with pictures) 

Trans tunnel: perfect to a fault, turns out on left hand drive cars the handbrake is still located on the right hand side of the centre console aaaaaaaand in doing so is located a lot further forward than where it sits on a right hand drive car. This led to the cutout for the handbrake to be a good 30cm too far forward. To get around this I made a template of the hole and cut it out where the handbrake was actually located and then used some excess trim offcuts to fill in the  original hole. between the hole being located so far forward and lineing the excess trim up with the surrounding pattern it gets hidden nicely. 
I applied this trim over sound deadner but even with the extra layer it fit quite well, a few relief cuts required and if you wanted a completely smooth appearance over the tunnel you will need to apply either extra deadner or some other material around the inconsistencies stamped into the metal. 

luggage raiser: easiest to fit, no cutting required, however make sure to do this last as the side edges and hemmed seam over the centre console will present better than the other pieces. 

strut tower and wheel arches: start at the back and then work towards the front of the car with these, some small cuts required around the luggage raiser. Found it hard to get these to stay tight as the carboard pieces that sit against the strut towers kept moving slightly. all up they don't look perfect but i'm more or less happy.

overall quality: pretty good (8/10) you will need to put in relief cuts and more than likely modify the trans tunnel piece but the materiel itself is really nice and workable. i went for the vinyl option over the genuine leather and couldn't be happier. Looks almost identical to the original 240z trim.

Great drive today, although I had to peel off in east Warburton to make a brunch in Croydon with the missus - that'll teach me for not locking in a cruise earlier!