blu260z

Hey Brabham 409 stainless is cheaper but it also copes better with the heating and cooling of an exhaust system. I used 316 everywhere else as the tube isn't where the heat is held for long periods of time. I went with the cat to cut the fumes and to also take some of the rasp out of the exhaust note. Its up near the gearbox so stops that underbody drone. Oh way to loud a hotdog is even worse than a straight through muffler you may aswell not even have it in there. I have had noisy, droning car exhausts before and the loves wears thin pretty quick, plus the added attention from the police

Exhaust is finally all welded up and bolted on and sounds great. Glad I went with a triflo muffler instead of straight through otherwise it would have been way to loud. According to a free db meter on my phone its at 84db at idle so well under the legal 96db for South Aus. There were a few changes to the exhaust, originally it dogleged slightly to clear all rear suspension. However this made the exhaust sit 80mm off the ground, so that got chopped out and now a straight run from the muffler goes under the rear suspension. Giving me a very nice 115mm lowest point ground clearance so that should keep the law happy ☺ And just a picture of the girl working on her tan.

15k! Is that you supplying parts (engine, suspension, brakes)? its seems very cheap.

No messing around here!! Straight into it, nice work AK

Today I mannaged to get the exhaust all tacked up. Its All 2" 316 stainless tube apart from the muffler and catalytic converter which is 409 stainless. I decided to go with a stacked style of tips on it, it should look and sound good ☺ the plan is to now set up a purge and start welding. I thought I would chuck up a little stainless tube tip ☺ unless you have 3 arms so you can tack, put in filler and hold at the same time! This is something that has saved me over and over again, especially working alone on stainless tube. This is a stainless tube clamp and by simply drilling aprox a 16mm hole it acts as a tacking clamp with a pair of vice grips it works great and holds it perfect as you can see. So if you ever decide to do a stainless tube exhaust grab a couple of clamps they pay for themselves. Enjoy ☺ BLU

Andrew look into getting a "strip it disc" for a 4" or 5" grinder. They are a little expensive at around $25 but that will do aprox 1/3 of a car. They are perfect for paint and bog and saves the damage a heatgun can cause and will take half the time. ☺

Nice 260z Andy. What I love the most is the spotlights drilled into the bonnet, it shows the value of the cars back in the day compared to now. Now the fun begins ☺

Some new boots for the old girl ☺ 16inch performance superlites +4 up front and -4 at the back. I would love to go a little lower to get better fitment but I am getting pretty close to that 100mm clearance mark.

What about this one forsale? Good price http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15317-front-spoiler/

Hi guys BLU is still getting some love even though I am full steam ahead paving the verandah/ entertainment area. I have recently finished working on the brakes I have completed the r31 handbrake brackets that bolt upto an existing point where the old flex to hard brakeline bracket originally bolted upto. I was having a heap of trouble with the 350 holley and spent alot of time chasing my tail. I checked everything pretty much stripped the engine back to bare and with all of that I was back to the carby. So with a wanted add on here tracked down some 240z hitachi carbs and manifold. Someone at some stage had painted both the carbies silver but with some thinners and a toothbrush I got all the paint off, luckily the paint protected some of the parts from rust. At this stage I also rebuilt them botled them upto the car set them to factory setting and bang it fired up. Now I am currently collecting stainless exhaust bits so far I have all my 2"stainless pipe, stainless triflow muffler, 400 cell stainless cat, lazer cut stainless flanges all thats left is some elbows and some argon for my tig. I cant wait to start on this ☺ Happy Zeding guys☺ Mr Blu

Same car but now being sold without the RB26 engine to go with it

WTB is wanting to buy champs54 ☺

I think this has gone past the point of being a wanted add now!!

Hi Clarky. Hilux and r31 systems work well for most people but a master cylinder upgrade is also recommended to a 15/16" master. There is a tutorial in the brake section for both the setups. Here is the R31 as a kit from a member on here all you need is rotors and pads http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=201627960292&alt=web Here is the 2 links for the brake tutorials http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/2667-tutorial-hilux-calipers13-rotor-front-conversion-for-260z/ http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/7330-tutorial-r31-skyline-rear-disc-conversion-for-240260z-handbrake-update-1012/ Hope this helps

These add where only on gumtree and 1 stage but they seem to pop up more here now! Add another 10-15k mate and you might be close. You might get a 2+2 for that price but even then it might still have work needed.

Great spotting Simestime! I just purchased them for $150. Thanks for all who pm'd and replyed. I will still be chasing the linkages that go back to the main throttle linkage near the brake booster. Hopefully I can get some locally. If anyone has a set feel free to pm me though. Thanks

Thanks Alan I will keep you in mind but I am really after a set of round tops. Thanks

Hey guys. Seriously considering ditching the 350 holley and running some nice SU round tops. What would be ideal is complete assembly removed from a car with manifold, and linkages. I would consider buying bits and peices but just to cut down on postage If I can get a full setup I would rather that. Still unsure on budget but for the right setup it can be sorted out. Let me know what you have ☺ thanks

Ok guys I spent the day doing alot of head scratching. The ZX distributor was a complete unit and has the 90deg base and appears to have not been rebuilt as it still has its original paint marks on the bolts. I checked the timing today and all is 100% so its making me think I may have jumped the gun and blamed the distributor. The engine is running a 350cfm holley which I purchased second hand. It ran a little rought but has got worse now it has a larger camshaft, I am now thinking it could be a "Frankencarb" bits and pieces from all different carbs chucked together. So I will send it off to be tested on a bench test engine, hopefully this answers my issues. Thanks for your help guys

Thanks linton the oil pump is set correct but the it still seems to fall half way between 2 leads. I have moved the oil pump in both directions and it still lands halfway between. So instead of firing on 1,5,3,6,2,4 the rotor falls on 1.5, 5.5, 3.5, 6.5, 2.5, 4.5. If this makes sense? So I can only get the engine to run on max advance as this would be closest point the ignition aligns.

I searched through the attatchment jeff but couldnt find anything. I am wondering if possibly my crankshaft timing is out by 1 tooth on the sprocket. The coil is just a trial for now. Chris

Hi Jeff yes both piston 1 and cam lobes are correct and harmonic balancer is zeroed. Thanks

Already sold !!!

Hi guys I havent searched for this as I dont even know how to explain it! So I hope this makes sense.. After searching for a missfiring/running issue on my L26 I set the engine to TDC and came across what seems to be a 280zx distributor that is half out on its firing sequence. Is this something that can be fixed. I am pretty certain my oil pump shaft is set correctly and I purchased a complete 280zx distributor including base.

Nice work Andrew. In regards to engine bay colour its a personal choice. The black engine bay really emphasizes the engine, and therefore the engine must look neat and clean !! I asked the same question in my build thread and got a few pictures for an example. Here is some old pics of mine, I am still tidying up cables and hoses etc