blu260z

Like most have said I think they will increase in value but over how many years, I dont know. I definitely dont think it will reach anywhere near the value of a 240 or 260z but look at the 260 2+2, everyone always says we scrapped them for nothing back in the day.

So finally put the rest of the front suspension together the only thing left is to rebuild the calipers. The entire front end has new urethane bushes, tie rod ends, ball joints, springs, rubber boots for shocks and steering rack, flushed and re built wheel bearings and new rotors. Cant wait to feel the difference between the sloppy old front end to now. The rear will be getting the same treatment so that will be next. The fuel tank is out to make space to drop the rear end and to paint the tank black with silver straps. Its amazing how new parts can really kick you back into gear Picture time

I will pm you Andrew I am sure we could sort something out

I don't think Andrew was clear enough with his terminology. I think he is looking for the actual downpipe not a gasket. I could look into making the flange for you but it will be around the $50-$70 mark

Hey mate I have 1 but your local auto parts shop should be able to get them in

Been a little quiet over the Christmas/Newyr period unfortunately this is a busy time of year for me due to shutdown work. Quickly before Christmas I started stripping the front end suspension and painted up some components which had plenty of time to cure for the 3 weeks the shed didnt even get opened . Today I managed to score a random day off and although here in Adelaide its 40 degs I braved it cranked the fan and spent some of the day down the shed. Although I worked over chrissy the parts didnt stop coming in, I got a new set of front and rear lowered king springs and a full bushing kit from Prothane. After this will be new brake rotors, lower ball joints, tie rods and a rebuild of the calipers Pretty standard grubby front end. Factory rubber bushes, springs and 25yrs of grease The full bushing kit from Prothane looks to be good quality. Half built front end. Fresh brush on sound deadening and painted parts, I used gloss black kill rust and sprayed it with a gun amazing how hard that stuff sets. [/url]

The car is in original condition inside and out? Pretty strange this one must have been the only 260z to come out with an original 350chev motor.

Half the time its almost the same price to just get new rotors. Have you replaced the steering coupler bush ?

If anybody has looked closer at this picture it definitely shows cracked paint and scratches all over the rear hatch and quarters. For $50k I would be expecting something in alot better condition..

This is entire build is doing funny things inside my pants...

I cannot speak on behalf of Locky because I have never seen any of his work, but if he knows what he is doing I would say there would be no more issues. I just know that they dont even like you drilling into the chassis let along cutting a section out and welding it back in. I am sure someone will be able to point you in the right direction mate.

If your RWC is anything like south Australia they will not be passing that, sorry to break the news. If they even see you have messed with the chassis it wont pass. You may say your welds are "strong" but in the event of a crash or even harsh driving the chassis will crack right next to the weld as you have fatigued the steel next to it. Even then if your insurance catch on you wont be covered and it will snowball from there. I am a fitter /fabricator and even I would be sus about doing work on my own chassis :/

Alex and Red76z how did you secure the spoiler to the hatch? I have heard some bolt but some sikaflex them or is there another way ?

When I looked at the two cars I was going to strip the orange car for its parts and sell or scrap it. But I had nowhere to store 2 cars and the girlfriend would have cracked it . Thanks for the info on the spoiler alex I will definitely keep it in mind. Its good when you can say (I) built the car from a rusty old wreck

Hi alex really nice work there mate. When I was looking for my 260z I stumbled into these cars aswell. I had a look and decided it was to much work and hassel, but very glad someone snapped them up. What Did you end up doing with the orange car ? Also what spoiler are you running on the 2+2? Chris

Is there an Australian company making jumpers and shirts like this ?

As most of the engine work has been completed and my zx distributor is on its way thanks to dat2kman the weekend gave me a chance to catch up on a couple of small jobs. I stripped and re-painted the rocker cover and installed my 8mm leads, also finished off the cover for the fusible links and other fuses getting rid of the ugly standard one. Also made up a battery hold down strap to replace the old rusty one. Next step will be suspension and brakes I really need to keep in mind the purpose of the car, which will be occasional daily drive and weekend hack through the hills. (Springs) - king springs "low" (Shocks) - still unsure but possibly KYB (Brakes) - standard rotors /quality pads rebuilt standard calipers (Bushes) - probably poly So if anybody has info on shock type or springs or do's and dont' please feel free to post it. Or even if you have a set of used springs you would part with let me know Chris

Thanks mate I might have a 260z one sorted but would probably prefer the 280zx one, i might pm lurch

Weekend update.. Gave the 350 holley a bit of a tune I will be changing the powervalve and jets as it is running a little on the rich side. A few months ago I started a topic in the electrical side of the forum regarding my distributor rotor being 180deg out. Turns out it wasn't my oil pump but my distributor shaft, somebody previous to me must have put it in 180deg out. I started to dis assemble the distributor only to find the plastic swivel assembly for the vacuum advance to be in pieces soooooo I will be on the hunt for a 260z or 280zx distributor 1 step forward 2 steps back

Hi guys looking for a 260z distributor but would also consider a 280zx distributor with all the gear for electronic ignition. let me know what you have Cheers chris

Also Something that you really need to decide is what am I going to use the welder for? Just sheet metal or would you like to use it for thicker steel. Then ask do I want to tig weld aswell or will I want to down the track? do I want to use your mig to aluminum weld ? Do you want to run shield-gas mig in the shed and be able to take your welder down the back and arc weld the gate or fence? Ask these questions before just buying just a mig welder. If you just want to mig 1mm-4mm mild steel grab yourself a bunnings special for $300 If you just want to weld 1mm-10mm and think I wouldnt mind trying aluminum or stainless mig and run some gas or gasless aswell go for something like the Lincoln 180c or similar $800 - $1500 If you want to mig stainless, aluminium, mildsteel upto 10mm run gas or gasless. Also have the option of and arc welder and a scratch start tigwelder for welding stainless only look at something like the CIG 175i or Lincoln power mig 210MP $1000 - $2000 Its worth a look around and definitely worth shopping around but one thing I really want to stress is dont buy from ebay or similar sites. Welders sometimes break and they cost ALOT to fix last thing you want to be doing is paying to post a 30kg welder back to china or even Australia to be replaced or fix. Most welder service shops wont even touch shitty no name welders because they just cant get any parts for them. Happy welding fellas chris

GongZ most of the time anything running a 10amp plug will only be around the 130-150amp cheap bunnings style welder. For your s30 panel work welding say 2mm sheet a 130amp will be fine. But if you want to weld thicker steel 5mm-10mm you really need those extra amps meaning 15amp plug. In terms of gas vs gasless it gets difficult, gasless burns much hotter than standard wire and is alot more messy with spatter it means you will deform light guage sheet very quickly. People always say gasless is not as strong, this is rubbish if you cant lay a strong weld its to do with you (eg cant weld, metal to thick/ wrong material and not the welding unit/ gas type like most blame.

Ok guys engine problems are sorted a big thankyou to RLY240 for giving me an exhaust valve and showing me his car ☺. I now just need a new intake/exhaust gasket and I can start to tune. I have also decided the blue engine cover is not going to grow on me its very bright probably to bright, I will be changing is to silver with black lettering and stripes.

The perfect home welder mate. Only problem is it has a 15amp plug, there are ways around it but I will not say on here only other welder I can recommend is the cigweld 175i transmig. Both great welders

Yea that would be good if you could have a look roger head dia is 35.2mm and length is 117.4mm lomg Thanks chris