blu260z

They work great no issues here. 100x better than points and alot easier than hunting for a 280zx distributor with all the bits.

I have ordered a new set of 260z locks from my local Autopro hopefully I can swap the arms over. Failing that I will cut the arms up and tig them to work

Hi guys I am having trouble with door locks lately. I stripped the trim off and had a look.at the lock it was pretty stuffed, so I decide to look into buying some next locks. But my lock looks nothing like any locks I can find. Is the 2+2 locks differnt from 240z& 260z because of the extra internal door latch/handle. If so where can I find a set ? Or can I just swap the arms on the 260z locks Thanks guys

Let us know how you go red76z as I think there is a few people out there that would be interested. I didnt even realize there was a difference lucky I didnt go just buy one The bre style is very common I am surprised nobody has started moulding them for a 2+2 and selling them on ebay especially now alot of people are restoring 2+2s

I have seen this car a few times. A little bit of paint fade on the roof and definitely a knock on the passenger front qtr but other than that its in good original condition

Thats a very good example of a 2+2 project from the pics. Looks rust free along the body

That is an amazing 2+2 If you don't mind me asking how much ? Any specs on it Ultrasuede?

I have also installed a pertronix electronic ignition and coil. What a difference!! it starts much nicer now when cold and doesn't loose any power in the rev range. my future plans will be to spray the bare metal with an epoxy and put the body panels in storage for a bit. My intentions are while I have no pretty paint and no bonnet or guards I will do some work on the engine. Plans for the engine include removing the head and doing a port/polish, fitting a set of extractors and possibly putting in a higher lift cam. Also detailing the engine bay including paining the rocker cover and tidying up some of the vacuum lines and wiring. I then intend on working on suspension and brakes and then finally spraying her in original 307 blue And its as simple as that should be done in a week or 2 easy more like a year or 2 :'(

Bit of an update. I have had a week off work and thought I get some work done on BLU.I have completed most of the rust repairs that where visible, so decided its time to start getting back to bare metal. I have been using a mix of paint stripper, heatgun, STIP-IT grinder discs and orbital sander to get it back and to be honest I was shitting myself about what I would find. The previous owner told me it had a respray a fair few years back and from what I found elsewhere someone had a go at "patching" rust. But to my surprise it wasn't that bad so here are some pics of the panel prep

Price wise I am unsure, I would say more expensive. Protection wise 10/10 I have used it for a wile now and cannot fault it. Chemsearch it a very good company and make many top quality products. For example most people use WD40, RP-7 or CRC 5.56 for seized or rusted bolts they have nothing on chemsearch YEILD Its liquid gold. I am a mechanical fitter and yeild is my saviour Top quality company, top quality products

Thanks reverendzed I get it from work but you can buy it direct from chemsearch. Its 10x better than the supercheap stuff for rust prevention. It sets like a resin and only comes off if you scrape it with a screwdriver.

Ok after putting off the drivers side for weeks now I had to do something . My nightmare got worse when I started removing paint when I hit it with the grinder POOF in a cloud of dust half my dogleg and door jam vanished It was a previous rust repair I must say they done a great job with the bog because I Missed it completely. I started with this Ended up with this :'( But a little bit of cutting, bending, blending and belting I managed to re build the door jam and the dogleg. Also this is the chemical I have been treating all my panels with. The product is Chemsearch Chelade it is a rust converter that changes the properties of rust so it cannot keep rusting, it also prevents future rusting. I brush it on with a paintbrush wait for it to dry (dries dark blue/purple colour) then paint over it giving it that extra barrier of protection.

That sounds spot in mate. It doesn't really bother me just confused me

Ok had a look over the weekend and with cylinder 1 at TDC the distributor rotor is pointing at the point that should be number 6 plug. What could be 180deg out? The distributor can only go 1 way because of the groove on the end of the shaft. The car runs great just the leads are 180deg out

Thanks guys I will have a look over the weekend

Hi guys taking a look over the 260z today though I would check the spark plug lead resistance as I was chasing a missfire. I pulled out the service manual to get the leads right on the distributor cap followed the order, cranked it over pop back through the carby,Telling me 180deg out. But how I havent moved the distributor. I swapped the leads to the opposite number on the distributor and it fires up. How is this possible? Its like the dizzy is 180deg out but its not.

I should be able to get it a little better I plan on filling the holes and re chromeing the bumpers.

Bit of an update, the rear has been smoothed and re assembled in waiting for the rest of the rust to be removed. I thats the passengers side of the car completed and now to start on the drivers side. Here is a few pics of the smoothed bumper after assembly and the rust damage on the drivers side :'(

Thanks PB260z but already looked into it and will not work due to shipping Thanks anyway

Hi guys I am after a set of basic headers for my 260z l26. Hopeing somebody has a set lying around they might have upgraded on, not fussed on paint colour or minor surface rust as I will blast them back and heat wrap them. Looking for something in the adelaide and surrounding areas Thanks

@Brabham. Your local hardware should stock it. I am a fitter/fabricator so we use it at work. I will be sanding It back but its just protecting the raw steel while I do other stuff.

No BLU will be staying blue :)it has the number plates BLU260 but the redoxide looks like its taking over the car

Bumper rust all fixed and smoothed off. Many hrs of work welding in patches and smoothing Soon project BLU will turn into project RED with all the rust getting cut out

Yea the holley runs great. It will be great when I can finally tune it on the road but other than that no complaints.

Just a bit of an update on project BLU. Switched the 4cyl flat tops with a 350cfm holley and intake manifold, which means changing to throttle cable instead of linkages. And installed my ebay aluminum radiator and some thermo fans. But enough of the fun stuff I Should probably get back to cutting rust. Here are some pics