blu260z

d3c0y do you think you will have any trouble with heat transfer to the coil? Especially sitting near the block ? I am thinking about mounting mine on one of the redundant a/c bolt holes, but I am worry about the heat.

Thats a much better pic d3c0y. I like the satin black look especially if the engine is clean and really pops like you said. I think I will take some time to try hide some of the wiring, radiator overflow bottle and charcoal canister etc. Thanks fellas

So with all the engine work coming along nicely, I thought I might take a look at the engine bay. What I have is a large battery tray rust issue, because of that battery acid has either stripped the paint or discoloured it. Should I paint it blue again or shoot it all satin black? The reason I am thinking black as it will hide most of the wiring and hoses and make the cleaned engine and freshly painted BLU engine block really show ? What do you guys think ?

I used CEVA to get my 260z from Victoria to Adelaide, the price was ok for a car that wouldnt run but had working brakes. Thats where the good stopped I was told I would be called 30min before drop off so I could leave work and sign the papers that didnt happen, My girlfriend then had to leave work because she was only 10 min away. He unloaded the car into the driveway and proceeded to let the drivers side door smash into my fence, then said "lucky its only a project ayyy haha". Lucky I wasnt there in time otherwise I might have put his head between the door and my fence. Yea wouldnt recommend them at all

Very nice Gongz its a really nice colour and car.

Thanks ☺ yes its original 307 blue and it will be kept that colour I quite like it. I have spoken to my paint supplier and he said he shouldn't have an issue matching it as its a fairly basic blue. Its Strange you have a 307 blue 240z as I thought it was only a 260z colour ? Are you sure its not a 115 or a 903 blue ?

A couple of weeks ago I ripped the engine and gearbox out with the intention of stripping the head down. While its out tidy the engine bay up, give it a good clean and try and hide some of the wiring and also fix the rust under the battery tray. I ordered a HOT little cam to go straight in and it should go nice with the port polish I am working on (pics to come) here is a couple of progress pictures

Thanks mate. They are pretty strong engines

Hey guys Is this something that could be applied to a street engine Or is it unnecessary? Do you need the high volume pump? Any chance you could put up the write up on this topic Gareth ? Thanks

Also d3c0y what you are reading is cam lift at .331" thats not valve lift. At I believe a 1.48 ratio it will be .489" valve lift

Thanks enzo. I will definitely take your words into consideration. I will do a bit more asking around before I make the change.

I was told by camtech that I can use my same rockers, aslong as the cam or rockers don't have signs of serious wear. He said also unless I am racing the factory valve springs are fine aswell

No it will be going on a l26

So I made the purchase today of a Camtech camshaft very helpful guys. Should be on my doorstep in about 2 weeks, beacause it in billet form now. Here are the specs

Thanks d3c0y I wasn't sure if the c2 grind was the same as the magical C grind. I am looking at changing it out for a CrowCam medium performance cam, Or atleast something of similar specs. Is there any brands you guys would recomend? Looking for something hot for the street but not racespec.

Hey guys ripping the head off the l26 today. But I noticed the camshaft was stamped C2. I have heard before the c grind was a nismo option and they used the C grind cams to finish off the last of the 260z production blah blah blah. But I have done some research and cant find anything on a C2 grind cam. If anybody has some info please let me know. Thanks

So after stripping back to bare metal and cleaning it was time for some primer. I was recommended to use valspar AP33 as its a 1k etch but also has high build properties and can be topcoated straight over it. Over a few weekends fighting between warmer weather I finally had it primed and ready for guidecoating and blocking. Starting with some 320 wet and dry to remove the first guide coat and some 800 wet and dry to remove the second guide coat. Wow do I hate blocking back does that give you a sore arm or what And after blocking and guide coating Now I plan on leaving the body for a while and moving onto the engine and suspension then when that is all complete paint the car. Cant wait to get onto something other than bodywork

I purchased my first 260z approximately 9 months ago and body work is now complete. One thing to remember when you look at your rust that needs repairing, is ×2 if you can see it chances are there is a heap more you cant see. But most importantly don't give up here is my project if you want to have a look http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15772.0.html

Thanks red. Looks good to me. I think you have just solved my 2+2 bobtail issue

nice work mate is that the 240/260 spoiler. What did you end up doing to it ?

So while stripping panels back to bare metal I figured I should find some side mirrors considering BLU only had one. Also so I know if I need to fill any holes where the old mirrors where. I search for a set but I refuse to pay $300 + for a 260/240z pair, off to my local wreckers I go. Found a set off a 1970 honda civic chrome mirrors in poor condition but spent an hour polishing and they turned out great And only $20 cant complain. Here is a pic of one polished one in wreckers condition. Sorry for the massive pic guys struggling with photobucket lately especially with the app

Hi azman. No the 2+2 has a totally different setup.

I have written a how to Click the link for a look http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,16176.0.html

I have Been chasing replacement 2+2 door locks for a few weeks now without any luck. I have posted on here and it seems others have the same issue so I have taken the time to write a HOW TO on using standard 240z/260z locks. Level of difficulty 2/5 (if you can weld) Tools needed/ hacksaw or grinder, ruler, finepoint sharpie, welder (mig or tig), file Ok so you will need to purchase a set of locks from your local auto shop aprox $50 as you can see they look nothing alike to the original 2+2 locks You will need to remove both of the arms and mark a line 16mm from the end on both. This will be your cut line. I recommend cutting with a hacksaw but to the butchers out there you could use a grinder. Now clamp and tac part A and B Now test fit the lock make sure it engages and obviously unlocks the door. Once you know it fits and works you can weld and flush back with a file. Replace the rubber on the arm now I used some vacuum line. hey presto a brand new 2+2 lock Hopefully this can help out some 2+2 owners experiencing the same issue Regards BLU

Ok so no surprise that the 260z locks I ordered where not the same as the 260z 2+2 locks But !!!! If you are capable of using a welder this can be an easy fix. Cut the new arm weld on the old. I will do a full HOW TO on the weekend and post it up because I am sure people will benefit from it.