blu260z

Unsure if the timing plate was stuck. I just wanted to illuminate potential causes so an entire ignition overhaul needed to be done (leads, cap, rotor, plugs) were changed a few months back. Yes 17deg at idle and 30+ deg total

Hi Aircobra, when I started to read your post I did think that. However over the last week I checked all my timing marks again for what felt like the 1000th time, and guess what it was correct !! So I decided to rebuild the 280zx dizzy especially that I found ball bearings in the bottom from the vacuum plate. Everything got stripped, parts all cleaned. The body got a sand blasting to look like new aswell as the reluctor and stator as the we're rusty. I had to make a brand new ball bearing holder/breaker plate component as that had fallen appart. Then finally re-build with some grease, put on a new ignition module and a new MSD master blaster coil. The car now runs beautifully at 17deg advance. I now just need to fix the stumble/ flatspot as soon as you open the butterflies and everything should be sweet. Thanks for everyones help

I will take a look at checking TDC. Especially the balancer I will rock it backward and forward to find the exact TDC. I am also considering a full rebuild on the 280zx distributor as I found a ballbearing when I removed it the other day.

Ok guys a couple more videos first hopefully showing the white timing mark on the crank pulley better and how far its off the scale. The bottom mark on the timing scale is 20deg so its upto 40deg advance at idle. https://flic.kr/p/ZxEPo1 Second video is of me trying to adjust the timing back to around 17deg with the distributor only before it runs rough and stalls. https://flic.kr/p/CurK3q

Alan I will try get a better video today of the white mark on the pully and the timing scale. Hopefully that will make it better

Howdy in the pictures on my first post the distributor has a white texter mark where the No1 lead points at TDC. The cap is in good condition and distributor vacuum moves and holds when sucked on and springs back. Scott I think I have the pump drive correct as per the picture in the manual. Thanks Alan thats something I will keep in mind. I did get somewhere over the last couple of days and mannaged to get the engine to run without a missfire. I re checked plug gaps and made 2 plug gaps smaller, must have got caught and bent them out a little. However I messed around with the distributor advance and found if I set it lower than 20deg it causes the backfire and rough idle. When the advance is set to 25-30deg the car runs and revs quite well minus a small stumble on initial acceleration. What could cause it to need so much advance ? I have included a few videos so hopefully it can explain it a little easier First is with the timing light. As you can see it is running off the scale and the last mark is 20deg https://flic.kr/p/ZuB1pj Second is the engine running at the 25-30deg advance https://flic.kr/p/YuegsL Thanks for everyones help it is much appreciated Chris

Thanks Howdy. Yea I checked that aswell.... Dissy cap reads anti clockwise 1,5,3,6,2,4

With a timing light 10deg. But doesnt seem like it improves if I make it more or less.

Hey guys I have been going around in circles for a long time now. I have read all the books and searched the net high and low with nothing that has really stood out. I seem to have what I think is a timing issue but cant seem to find what is causing it. The car starts and idles but when the throttle is pushed it backfires from the exhaust and also the carbies and stumbles like its misfiring. It doesnt matter what I do to the carbies ot just keeps happening. Things I have checked and seems to be ok -Valve clearances. -Carbies. Floats, needles, 2.5 tuns out on jets, dashpots drop with a clunk ATF oil in them. -Distributor is 280zx. Matching base wired to diagram on the net -Coil is pertronix 3ohm. Bench tested with multimeter and is within specs -New leads, plugs, cap and rotor -checked for vacuum leaks and have nothing I can find. -Compression check 150psi over all cylinders -Checked Timing marks and cant see an issue but maybe overlooking something. Both cam lobes are both up. Sprocket is set on 1. Chain doesnt seem to have stretch according to the notch. Crank pulley is zero'd at TDC and cylinder 1 piston is at TDC. I have included a few pics of the timing marks at TDC can anyone see any issues. Does the rotor look like its not pointing at exactly TDC 1

Turns out it was a faulty brand new distributor cap. So that fixed my starting issue but not my running issue... small steps at a time

Thanks Greg, ok then I will check out the cap. The cap and rotor are brand new so should be ok. I will double check it though.

Hey guys had a quick look today and found no spark with the timing light on the leads. The lead from the coil however is producing spark. So I have spark upto to distributor but no further. This is further making me think it is the 280zx module. Can anyone else confirm this?

Thanks Greg. I have pulled the fuel lines and I definitely have fue. The coil is aprox 1 yr old Pertronix 3 ohm coil so it shouldnt be gone but that will be something I will keep im mind. It still doesnt answer why I get no spark when I ground the plug and when I remove it from the ground it will spark?

Hi guys. Any help would be appreciated. Recently took the car for a drive and notice it ran rough abouve 3500rpm and when returned home it was hard to start and ran rough even at idle, and sometimes didnt even start. Thought it was time a did a bit of a tune up so got some new leads, plugs, rotor cap and button re-assembled and its still the same. So I started more checks, checked fuel, timing, compression and spark thats when I found something strange!! I pulled a plug and ground it on the valve cover and got no spark however when I lifted it off a few millimeters I got a great spark. Leading me to think when the plug is screwed in it wont be getting a spark. What could cause this ? The car has the 280zx distributor upgrade could it be the module? I have also checked the engine and body grounds and all have checked out with less than 0.5 ohms resistance so I dont think it is a grounding issue. Thanks Chris

Hi Jeff Maybe look at this topic for front lip styles. www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/3140-types-of-s30-front-air-dams-and-where-to-get-them-in-aus/ Unfortunately some of the pictures have been lost due to Photobucket, however there are still quite a few useful pictures and info on there.

Or a fine tip paint marker from a Newsagency/ stationary shop.

Thanks I will look into that. The vacuum plate moves but I have never checked to see if it has full movement, I may even consider dissembling and cleaning it to ensure its ok.

Just a quick update guys. I have now got the glass back in, powdercoated bumpers on, new door/ window seals and FINALLY the carpet installed. I have recently changed careers and time is pretty scarce unfortunately, however I did get a chance to get a permit and take it out for a quick spin the other day. As always the first drive in 16 years was a little bit nervous as I listened for every strange noise, but the bigger problem I had was no power over 3500rmp. On closer inspection with a timing light I found the engine would not advance past 25deg advance !! I messed around and checked timing and carbs and everything was OK so switched my attention to ignition. I removed the distributor cap and found a very black/sooty rotor button so that cant help, so I have now ordered a new cap, rotor and leads so hopefully this sorts out my issues. If not atleast I can eliminate those items! I will post some pictures soon hopefully, happy Zeding guys. Chris

Looks like a theatre room in a hospital for god sake!!! love the work mate well done.

Little update the inner hatch seal from Zcardepot seemed to be a little big but that wasn't an issue I just cut out the extra and glued the ends with some Loctite 408. Also go with the 3M weatherstrip adhesive or sikaflex 227 in black. I was told by the person at Repco that the best stuff for weatherstrips is Selleys windscreen sealant as she reads the back and told me it bonds to everything. Stupid me took her word for it and used it, WHAT A MESS.. The stuff doesn't set and doesn't hold anything. I was then told by Sprint Auto that Permatex sell a weatherstrip adhesive but its a yellow/brown colour so decided against that. I might eventually buy another inner seal and start fresh as this seal now has windscreen sealant stuck to it and i cant find anything that cleans it up.

That white 2+2 sounds like it could be trouble, if the owner says it "has heaps of typical Datsun rust and body filler" it must be bad. Also appears little care was taken when painting.

Thanks Peter I will look into it. I have a bit I can take in for a sample. Thanks

Peter did you get your seals from clark rubber ?

Wanted.. 260z 2+2 inner hatch seal on the odd chance someone has one laying around.

Hey guys. I purchased the Zcardepot 280z 2+2 weatherstrip kit for my 76 260z 2+2 and so far everything has fit great. The only parts left to go on is inner hatch seal, front and rear glass seals and the professionals will be installing them.