Andrew_L26

From what I've researched it does work on a larger scale just not very well haha

Finished (bar primer) product. Ready to be sent off! Both left and right dogleg sections are $145 each + P&H The upper most lip can either be removed or used depending on the severity of rust. If it is to be used and not cut off extra folding and bending may be required (to suit the lip around the wheel arch) As with any rust repair section, minor adjustments may be required to fit your car. Cheers, Andrew

I haven't but I was actually going to do a bit of an experiment awhile ago but forgot about. My plan was to get two small sheets of paint free, oil free steel, connect one piece to a block of zinc and leave another with no zinc and leave them out in the weather for a few weeks. That would give a fairly good indication of the real world protection. I'll defiantly be trying it out on my z once it's complete!

Got any before and after photos? Love get my windows refurbished!

I would say that having an original reconditioned would probably cost at least as much as a new alloy radiator. Copper and aluminium have roughly the same heat conductance (copper is slightly better) however Ally radiates heat better. But yes. I reckon the orig radiators look far better than the typical big shiny ally ones! Andrew

So what's the go with the Elephant oil caps. I managed to score one from someone for next to nothing. I reckon they're pretty cool and it seems that they have something to do with the rally success in the late 70s?

Hey mate, I studied this in a fair amount of detail at uni and they don't actually do anything. These are useful when the entire object is submerged in water or under ground (usually salt water) to create an electrical connection. The reason they don't work on cars etc. is because the air surrounding the car isn't electrically conductive (preventing a full circuit). Another form of cathodic protection called passive cathodic protection would be more useful. This makes use of a process called galvanic corrosion in which a more reactive metal such as zinc is electrically connected to a less reactive metal (in this case the steel car body). This causes the zinc to corrode rather than the steel. It's by no means a perfect way to prevent corrosion but when used in conjunction with other rust preventative measures it can provide another barrier to rust! This uses the same idea as galvanised steel, even if the zinc protective coating is scratched in an area it still won't rust as it is protected by the sacrificial zinc Basically, you can buy a block of zinc and bolt it to your car and it will help fight rust. If you do intend on doing this you'd be best off making a steel bracket for the block and bolting that to the car as to prevent reactions between the car's steel and the block of zinc. Here is some more info for you, it mentions anodes that have been designed to be used as sacrificial anodes which would be worth looking into! https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/sacrificial-anodes-galvanic-corrosion-protection-thomas-niemeyer Hopefully this has helped! Andrew

Progress on the dogleg section. Going to be sorting out a neater way to roll the lip on the end of the repair section.

Hey all, I'm going to be heading up to Narrandera NSW from Melbourne in the next week or so. Will be coming back on Thursday or Friday. Let me know if anyone wants anything moved around! Andrew

Hi all, I'm currently working on producing some low cost rust repair sections. Currently I have basic front fender section (no lips for the wheel arch etc) for 50$ each side plus postage. I am also partway through a dogleg repair section for a 2+2 which will have the cutout for the door and the lip around the wheel arch. These will be priced at around $75 Each Plus postage (subject to changes) This is more of an EOI so let me know if you're interested and we will go from there! Cheers, Andrew

If it goes away when the clutch is depressed then it will not be the release bearing, if it starts when you push your foot on the clutch then it is the release bearing

I've taken out a few manual gearboxes including the one out of my 260z, what I do is get it all unbolted then lie on my back and use my hands and knees to lower it onto my chest then roll it onto the ground. Probably only weighs around 20-30kg Auto gearboxes are a different story though! they would be closer to 50-70kg Andrew

They are different between the 280zx-260z I know zx pedals won't work on a 260z and I would assume 260z pedals won't work on 280zx Good luck with your search!

I've been thinking about making one of these for awhile. Andrew

I got mine from uniflow: http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d141.html Technically yes you will need an airbox but in most cases due to the car being fairly old it won't be an issue (depending on the inspector) I haven't received your message yet? Andrew

Haha yeah, I take photos of nearly everything I do!!. I have cut the maximum suggested which ended up being around 20mm. Once I mould it all back together with stikaflex as well as the leftover rubber it should hopefully still have a fair bit of flex available! Andrew

Hey mate, I have a spare cable clamp that I would be happy to part with. As for air cleaners I had a pair of "Ramflow" Filters on my British SU H6's which had a great induction noise and seemed to perform fairly well. This shows how they mounted and what they look like. It would probably be possible to make something custom or re-drill your stock airbox.

Certainly took me awhile haha Hope you enjoy! Andrew

It's been a little while since my last update but things are moving forward! Engine bay is finally getting there with seamsealer and primer, inner cowl panel has been replaced, L/H rear 1/4 work is getting done (including dogleg and sill area) in which a few mediocore repairs were discovered. Fuel tank has been taken out, cleaned and stripped. I have been experimenting with the modification of strut mounts to lower the car (old racing trick so I've heard) I'll even it all out when I glue it all together with stikaflex. Think the dogleg area looks somewhat ok? Well I thought "I'm not spending 4k to have someone spray over a possibly bodged repair! so I investigated and found out it wasn't as bad as I thought! However , this z did not escape the obligatory dogleg/sill rust! Had an interesting idea of having a polished/unpainted (clearcoated) chassis number with a clean oval around it. I will have to talk to my painter about clearcoating over polished metal. I've modified my Kaizen Garage wiring loom so that the ECU will be able to read the oil temp, oil pressure and a signal from a knock sensor as well as extending/ trimming wires to allow the wiring to be tucked and routed neatly. The ECU I am using is the Adaptronic e420d I made a start on my custom copper fuel rail for my 720cc Denso injectors Part No: 195500-0830 As I'm going to be running straight E85 (and switching to flex fuel when I get the chance) I chose copper as it is unaffected by ethanol. The Lead based solder will react with the ethanol but on a very small scale and this does not concern me. I've chosen a ProFlow 300lph fuel pump, it is a Bosch 044 based design with some modifications to support E85 properly as well as pump a little more fuel. Also got a 100 Micron pre-filter and a 30 micron post filter, I plan to have a 10 micron filter just before the injectors (or is this overkill?) All of the supporting modifications to the car should support up to 350kw on E85 (other than the stock FPR which I will change in the future) despite me only aiming for 230-250kw to begin with. The intercooler piping shown on the motor is only temporary to keep the dust, dirt and water out of the motor/turbo. Also received my intercooler which is sized as following: 550x300x76MM CORE 740 x300x76MM OVERALL LENGTH 2.5" inlet/outlet This is the absolute perfect size for the s30 as it allows matches the stock A/C condenser very closely preventing turbulence between the intercooler/ac condenser/radiator hurting the performance of all systems. The inlet/outlet can be easily directed through the two fresh air holes by using two 2.5" silicone 90 degree couplers, The side going into the intercooler needs to be trimmed so they will fit. I found it a little challenging to find an intercooler that would match the radiator/condenser as well as allow the inlet/outlets to pass through the fresh air ducts without any modifications to the radiator support or the car/ac condenser/radiator in any way! As this is important for an engineering certificate. The only modification I had to make to the car was to bend the supporting tab for the a/c condenser pipe about 45 degrees to prevent it from rubbing on the intercooler end tanks. Custom brackets were made out of aluminum U stock however I will probably CNC billet mounts at uni as I have found myself in the Formula SAE team (allowing me to learn stacks about the engineering involved in suspension, composites etc.) but also allowing me to have access to equipment that is worth more than anything I will ever be able to afford on which I will hopefully be able to use for a few personal things (as long as I provide materials etc.) I'm really looking forward to learning about suspension design (and probably why cutting up suspension mounts is a terrible way to get the #hellafush look haha) My main concern now is my transmission, the current 280zx 5 speed I have is in need of a rebuild however even if it is rebuilt I'm pretty sure it will nuke it's self at 230kw. I'm tossing up between a VL gearbox (71C) and the far more expensive but stronger Z32 gearbox option. I've decided what I'm doing with this build (until I change my mind anyway) and that is to make a high powered zed with all the nice things such as A/C and a good sound-system, yes this won't be as fast, or handle as well as a lightweight build but it should be a beautiful car to not only look at but also drive! Managed to get noticed by Cigweld and they sent out some merch! Going to get the engine back in and sort out intercooler piping, get the wiring routed correctly and any other things before the car is painted as I'd rather scratch primer than the actual paint! Special thanks to Scoota for providing me with some affordable rust repair sections and misc parts, Gareth for the rear sump pickup, sump and various intake parts, Simestime for the oil pickup, Cigweld/ESAB for the awesome merch, Proflow for helping me select the correct fuel system parts and of course Stephen (SGR65) for being an absolute legend after there were a few issues with the turbo kit! Moving forward!! Andrew

What about cutting an s130 airbox in half, cutting a section out of another and welding them together. A plate could be made for the back that would replace the hose connection? They're cheap and easy to find. Just an idea! Andrew

Has anyone used an RB30DE Gearbox out of a VL Commodore. I believe the RB30DET boxes are completely different (MX7) however I'm pretty sure the standard RB30DE boxes are 71C based. They are a little easier to source when compared to RB20 Boxes and may be stronger? Cheers Andrew

PM sent last night!

"ACCIDENTAL POST*

Hmm ok, what about RB boxes such as the RB30 and RB20 (MF5) are they actually the same 71C or are they able to handle more power? What about the VL Turbo MX7 Boxes (I believe these are completely different but not sure) That's what I was thinking. I'll check if the shim is missing but from memory I believe it is. I'll also check out some diff oil! Thanks Guys!

Thanks, where would I source a new set of bearings. Just match the part numbers on the bearings and order some quality replacements? I'm not wanting to spend stacks on this box as let's be realistic I purchased it for $150 and I might upgrade to a SR box as I'm hoping to be pushing 220KW at the wheels (Turbo L28) How are you able to identify the box? I'll defiantly check all that and seriously look at some new bearings. There is a little rust on a few of the gears as well as one of the selector forks. There is a fair amount of pitting on the first gear (closest to bellhousing) on the countershaft, would this be the cause of the noise and is it an issue? I would imagine that it will wear the opposing gear quicker and possibly cause the tolerances to go out of whack over time leading to failure. There doesn't appear to be any chips in any of the gears however the oil that I put in it about a year ago (has probably done maybe 30Km on it, was really black and had plenty of metal shavings in it. the gearbox did have some sort of grease additive caked on the inside of the housing which had plenty of metal shavings in it. I will investigate further when I get home! Thanks stacks for your replies! Andrew