Andrew_L26

I decided to take my rocker cover of to polish and take some photos. Any ideas?

How are you able to tell if it had hydraulic lifters and what is the better Style for what applications. Cheers, Andrew

You should be able to cut out the inner arch down the bottom and access it. You could either repair what's there or replace it with a piece of angle iron which is what I did (welding new nuts on/tapping the angle iron) What it looks like inside Replaced with angle iron Also, I would run a tap through all the other holes to clean them out, using plenty of WD-40 in the process. Also make sure you replace the bolts with high tensile as they can be under a fair bit of force. Cheers, Andrew

Hi all, So I've found out my motor is an L28 with the F54 block, P90a Head and flattop pistons. Seems like an odd combination, anyone know what this combination would be good for? I'm currently giving the British SU's an overhaul and I'm wondering what kind of power I could expect to push with a good tune on them? Cheers, Andrew

I might be needing to get a welder down from Brisbane to Melbourne soon, if anyone is doing that route anytime soon there is a slab of your preferred beer waiting in Melbourne Cheers, Andrew

So not much has happened lately as I'm super busy with school however the previous owner did dig up a few photos of her from 2004, surprisingly she was painted black! I had no idea as I haven't found any overspray or paint under what I've removed. Looks fantastic and interestingly there doesn't seem to be any issues from the photos, however I have been told that there were issues with rust at that time... The car was purchased in 2004 for $1300, sold in 2011 for between $3000 and $3500 For some of the guys who have been into zeds for far longer then me, what condition 2+2 could you get for $1300 Perhaps someone even knows something about her haha The rego was: QZG 069 Interesting that it was re-registered with the newer style plates, might have been off the roads for a while.

260z 2+2 for sale on Facebook. It's got an NA FJ20 in it and he wants around 15k for it. I think he has only owned it for a few months and doesn't appear to know anything about it. It was resprayed recently, apparently a bare metal full resto but I can't imagine anyone letting a fully restored body going for 15k and considering he doesn't have any photos of the bare metal respray + the fact that it's got eBay fender mirrors would lead me to think it might be a bog, spray and sell job but that's just my personal thoughts and I seen it in person so I can't really say much. Does look really nice though.

Hey mate, I was wondering if you've heard anything? Cheers, Andrew

Is that the factory purple?

I've pretty well decided not to replace the entire rail as the entire rail is fine except for the very front bit. I'd be really interested in seeing some photos from the front end repair as it would really guide me through the process! Cheers, Andrew

That would be fantastic, trust me, I've already drilled out my section and it's certainly a time consuming job! But it's worth it! I've actually just cut around my service flaps so that I don't have to fiddle around aligning the brackets which should make it a fair bit easier. Cheers, Andrew

I'm planning to remove my inner cowl panel (drill out spot welds etc.) so that I can wire wheel the lower water trap under the windshield and weld in a little patch where some rust has taken hold, the section that I am going to remove is pretty stuffed on my car and I think it would be best to just replace it. Anyone got one that I could buy? http://www.hangoverture.com/240Z/UnderCowlRaw.jpg Thats the part I'm after Cheers, Andrew

It certainly does emphasise the engine! I might do my bay in black if I do go for the dark purple otherwise if I go bayside blue I might do the engine bay in colour!

Got my LH fender off, the dogleg looks to be in goodish shape with just some surface rust and rust juices from the fender. The fender is a different story, a section has been cut out previously and they've done a pretty good job, not fantastic but it's not really worth re-doing. They didn't treat the panel correctly so the rust has come back and I'm going to need to cut out a small section and weld in some fresh new metal. I also managed to make a new section for the frame which will be getting put in properly when I take the motor out some time this week. Much much better then the last repair that I did. I was able to use my schools workshop which allowed me access to some great hardware and tools. Just starting to pull things out of the engine bay so that I can get the motor out, do my repairs and paint it. I am starting to lean towards the Bayside Blue colour however I'm still keeping 362 Purple in mind. I'm also wondering if anyone has any nice looking engine bays in black, do they look good in a different colour to the body or is it better to keep it all the same? Cheers, Andrew

When I spoke to him about 6 months ago he said that he has to run his other business over seas and is planning to re-open in three or four years.

I was actually thinking about that but I don't know if anyone would have a sample or the code for it.

That's actually crazy, me and dad were thinking about using one of these exact eBay gazebos to paint it in! Dad's got a full respirator and everything that he uses for his work so I'll be sure to use that! I'll definitely check out the second video + some others!

Ah ok, I thought they acrylic was easier to paint? If 2pack I easier to get a good finish then I'll go with that

That green is quite nice! The reason I'm going to respray it (possibly before a rwc and rego) is because the vinyl wrap looks ultra tacky and as though it's hiding something and unfortunately in some areas where the wrap comes off so does the paint. I'll see how it goes once it's all off though,if there is only a few spots then I'll deal with it with color matched paint otherwise I'll wait for better weather to respray.

I've decided to give my z a paint! I'm going to do it myself in Acrylic, I may not be able to get the best finish but I should be able to get the car looking decent. I'm thinking of doing it in the R34 Bayside Blue colour which should look fantastic, I'm also going to re-do my front rail repair properly, now that I have access to my schools machining shop I will be able to fabricate a proper section to fit in as well as a far better MIG welder (Cigweld Transmig 170T) which is fantastic to use and far far easier to get a good weld, especially with thinner metal! If anyone has any suggestions for a colour then let me know! Cheers, Andrew

I'm considering replacing the rails because the front section on both sides (about 10cm in front of the sway bar mounts to the radiator support) is pretty badly rusted, I've cut out the sections of rust on one side and a previous owner patched the other side, the rust is limited to those areas however I don't think it's really the right thing to do, cutting out a section and welding in another. Although, it is forward of the motor mounts and the suspension.

I was actually thinking today that if I welded in suppprts all around the front end (basically building a frame around the car), removed the rails and then installed them with the help of a mate who is a professional welder, get everything straight following the measurements of the factory service manual. Then take it to an accident repair place to have the car straightened. It's probably not worth it but what do you guys think? Because I can't see myself spending that kind of money on a 2+2, if it was a 2 seater it would be a different story...

Hi all, I was wondering what a front frame rail installation would run me, I'm planning on properly inspecting the sills in my 2+2 and if everything is up to scratch then I might seriously consider replacing the rails. I got an estimate of around $3,000-3,500 for the rails to be replaced from a local classic restoration joint. That was if I removed the motor crossmember etc myself. I feel that the price they gave me is a fair bit more then what it should be. Are they in the ballpark? I was expecting around $1,000 to get them replaced + the cost of the rails. Cheers, Andrew

It's not actually rusted that far (or the flat steel repair thats in it doesn't go that far) it's just there is a huge dent along that section and it would be easier just to get a longer repair section. I'll look into the rocker panel though

I'm actually starting to think about getting into TIG welding and I've noticed that a few welders have the ability to do both, are these worth it or are they one of those things that you're better off getting seperate units?