Andrew_L26

PM sent! Andrew

Most likely H6 British SU's They're relatively common on 260zs

Will do cheers!

Yep certainly is, Black and chrome is going to be the colour scheme in the engine bay, plus blue of the body colour. But that is yet to be revieled.

Front suspension has been rebuilt with new SuperPro bushings as well as new Roadsafe ball joints and KYB shocks The old ball joints have so much play it isn't even funny... Also tidied up the motor and both my carbie N47 intake and my new P77 L20ET intake (Which I port matched and did an EGR delete on. Also shaved it down and neatened up the 65mm throttle body (Unknown what it's from) Yes I'm aware that I painted my brake rotors, the pads I have on now are going to be replaced anyway so I'm just going to use them to remove the excess high temp paint before swapping them out. Lots of turbo stuff too! Waiting for my 720cc Denso injectors to arrive (Overkill I know but running E85 I wanted at least 550cc and I got the Denso injectors for a good price. Plenty of KBS rust seal everywhere, I decided to do the front of the radiator support in KYB as it will be susceptible to stone chips etc. Pretty well all the rust has been removed in the engine bay so it's almost ready to paint. Just have to get a new inner scuttle panel and weld it in! I just have to swap the oil pick up over on the motor as well as make a custom fuel rail and the motor will be done!

After the slightly longer style oil pickup. I stupidly pushed my L20ET oil pan (with the rear sump) on my L28/F54 without realising that the oil strainer/pickup was from an l26 (with the middle sump) and damaged it. I believe that the one I need is from a 280zx New sump As you can see the new sump (L20ET) has the hump further back preventing the old oil pickup/strainer from fitting. Cheers Andrew

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/120794-cosmo-racing-coilovers-in-my-77-280z/

I didn't think that the 280z had power steering. The 280zx did however the rack is rear mounted and is not suitable...

I know some other manufactures do keep many of the stamps etc for body panels and perhaps Nissan is one of those manufactures, especially considering they were making plenty of rust repair panels for many years after production ceased. Would be awesome!

Haha I would say the same! Though the 300zx did sell the best so perhaps they are more common (certainly are on the roads anyway)

Found a few articles mentioning that Nissan is going to begin to produce OEM replacement parts for the R32 as well as the R33 & R34. They also mentioned that they will be reproducing parts for "various Fairlady Z generations" which certainly indicates that the S30 & S130 could be getting some OE parts remanufactured! Nissan Is Restarting Official Production Of Skyline Spares : https://www.carthrottle.com/post/nissan-is-restarting-official-production-of-skyline-spares/ https://drivetribe.com/p/b4RvFVtASraLESsOVPUJEQ?iid=Eqc1SjCaR-mo_osOSHljzw These sources may not be accurate but we can still hope! Andrew

Can't find any information on the two oil pumps I have. The H31 is what came on the L28 F54/P90a/flat tops. And I got a 17H oil pump with my turbo setup (I assume the 17H is from an L20ET but I can't find any info to confirm) which one will provide a higher flow/pressure and or be best suited to a turbo build with an oil cooler? Cheers, Andrew

Can't find any information on the two oil pumps I have. The H31 is what came on the L28 F54/P90a/flat tops. And I got a 17H oil pump with my turbo setup (I assume the 17H is from an L20ET but I can't find any info to confirm) which one will provide a higher flow/pressure and or be best suited to a turbo build with an oil cooler? Cheers, Andrew

Can confirm. My mate lived down the road from her and I occasionally saw her out driving on really nice days. Apparently she absolutely pampered it and never drove it out in the rain. Here is a photo I took of it about a year ago.

Ahh, good to know! I'm going with an aftermarket computer anyway so I'll look into ITB's as well as the different types of intakes! Thanks!

Hey guys, I actually had a look at one and compared it to my P77 intake from (I believe) an L20ET, I thought that the ports were bigger on the P88 and other 280zx manifolds however I was mistaken. It would appear that the L20ET manifold is the same size as the P88. The P90A head on my motor has 35mm intake ports whereas the P88 and P77 manifolds have around 31mm ports. Strangely enough the N47 carby intakes have 35mm ports which match the P90A head. Anyone have any ideas?

I got one for free off a forum member, usually people don't want much for them/A forum donation as they are fairly heavy and restrictive. Unfortunately I really want to keep mine despite going turbo, allowing me to go back to NA if I want to go down the originality path in the future. I think Locky said he had one when I was looking for one about a year ago? Cheers, Andrew

Hey guys, I'm after an L28/280zx fuel injection manifold preferably a non EGR version. Don't need injectors etc. Just the manifold. Also after the plastic injector spacers. Located in Melbourne. Cheers, Andrew

I was the one who purchased the intake and exhaust manifolds, I can confirm that they are both from a L20 however the exhaust manifold matches the ports on a P90a fairly well. I've done a bit of research and found that it is only the intake ports that are smaller on the L20. This intake (P77) is definitely a fair bit smaller than the ports on the P90a head. I think I'll see if I can get a 280zx non EGR intake and just swap everything onto it.

To reply to your question, the only time I've tripped the breaker using my 175i is when I was welding on nearly max power and there were a few other lights etc on in the house. If you're doing light panel work I can't imagine the welder drawing more than 4A so you should be fine unless you're welding some 6" + steel Cheers, Andrew

I have another photo of what I think is the same car? Alongside the photo is an article.

Note that most gasless only welders come pre wired for this, it's the ones that have the ability to run gas that you need to switch!

Yes for any structural welds allowing the welds to cool slowly is best as it will prevent segregation cooling rates where the outer layer may cool much faster then inside possibly causing cracks (as well as hardening the material which will promote cracks under flex). When I meant cool with oil I meant rather then using a damp rag (with water) you can use a damp rag with oil. The issue with using water is that when the metal is hot the metal will accept the hydrogen atoms from the water causing point defects in the steel/welds, when this happens it has the ability to weaken both the surrounding steel and welds. The reason oil is a better option is that it will not introduce hydrogen (or oxygen) into the weld but it will introduce a small amount of carbon which will strengthen the weld slightly but more importantly it should prevent rust on the welds. In many cases even when working with extremely low carbon steel (such as that on old jap cars) the heat from welding can upset the temper causing a microscopic clumping of carbon atoms (this is one of the reasons why welds usually rust faster than the surrounding metal) When cooling with oil, the new carbon is accepted into the weld and surrounding area increasing the carbon content and therefore reducing it's rate of corrosion. I think the reason that it isn't popular is because it really doesn't affect the final product a whole heap haha Cheers, Andrew

Hey guys, thought I'd come back to this. I found out recently in a my mechanical engineering course that using a damp rag will actually introduce hydrogen into the weld and surrounding metal, this can cause cracking and will overall weaken the weld, whether or not this will cause any significant issues with normal heat cycles depends on a large amount of factors such as heat when welding, type of shielding gas (or flux core), humidity etc. A better alternative would be either oil or sand, sand would be a better alternative however it may be harder to use on a panel. Oil will prevent hydrogen from being introduced into the welds whilst still cooling them! Andrew

Hey guys! Would anyone happen to be traveling from Canberra to Melbourne in the next month or so with room for an L28 Sump, intake, exhaust, turbo, dump pipe, oil lines etc. Cheers! Andrew