Andrew_L26

My girlfriends dad gave me a few old car mags, I'll scan all the datto stuff in properly when I get the chance. Interesting ZG style 2/2 As well as some fender mirrors I've never seen before

I'll bring a tarp don't worry

I might be able to make it (depends on what school is doing) and might be able to bring my Purple POS Andrew

It also depends on what diff you have and if you're wanting to change it. I believe that the 280zx boxes are more suited to the auto diffs however I'm still not sure how it all works (Just that my auto diff is fantastic with a 280zx box)

That's the first tutorial I've seen with sheet metal! Those tips will defiantly help! Thanks!

It's my car hahah, but I'm actually quite lucky I didn't end up with a car this bad given my knowledge when I purchased my z, I've had both my fenders off and it's nothing like that! But I suppose it all comes down to what the guy is after, if he didn't pay much for the car then it would have been expected.

Far out! I don't know if I've seen a build progress this quickly. You've certainly got some talents about you! Makes me feel better about my Z, knowing that if this is being saved mine surly can be! Andrew

Sounds good! thanks for the help! If I see anymore oil leak(s) I'll let you all know. Now the only thing I need to do to make my L28 completely leak free is do something about the sump gasket. Will the motor need to be lifted up to be able to remove the sump or is there an easier way? Thanks, Andrew

Hi all, so I got my gauges working and found my oil pressure quite low (and fluctuating a fair bit) so I decided to drain it and put the correct amount and viscosity in and I haven't had it weeping from the headgasket and the oil pressure seems more stable? I've never really paid much attention to it. When I start the car the gauge slowly rises to a bit below half way then when I begin to drive around it rises to a bit above the middle, seems to rise and fall between just below the middle and just above the middle, is this normal? Also, how quickly should the pressure rise, at the moment it's a little bit slower then say when the car is warm, you shut it off and turn it back on, the temp gauge rising back up to the level it was at before you shut the car off, perhaps 5-10 seconds? Andrew

Thanks all for your help!

So um... it was the "flasher" fuse... It all seems to be working since I replaced it. it had broken on the inside due to being knocked. It must have passed my check as when I push it together it works fine. I'll post pictures later Andrew

Also wanted to add that when I connect power the alternator seems to activate and output around 14.2 v, the voltage regulator clicks slightly, the engine dips for a second and it charges!

I was planning to replace them with maxi-fuses using the same housing etc and just having little adapters on top. I got the gauges working! sort of anyway. if I manually jump the power from the battery to all of the gauges (green wire on tach) they all work. I also found that the wire does link up with the voltage regulator directly it's the black and white wire going in the V.R. now I'm going to find out why there isn't any power going to that wire! I'll keep you posted Andrew

Boy do I hope thats the issue. I cleaned it off when I found the issue and I haven't had anymore oil come out, although. I haven't driven it... Thanks for the support, Andrew

I did make new fusible link wires about 4 months ago and replace them. I'll double check them though!

http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/289362-could-voltage-regulator-74-260z.html Sounds very similar to my issues. First thing for tomorrow is to clean those plugs and if that doesn't work then I might hotwire past the connecter and go from there. I'll keep you updated! Andrew

So, taking advantage of the unit we were doing at my TAFE (clutches) I thought it was time for some manual gearbox action. Got all my parts ready including a box (ZX) and everything went smoothly, I ended up spending $650 with a new master, slave, clutch line, pedals, gearbox, new clutch and pressure plate, machined flywheel, rear main seal. I think that I did it fairly cheaply which I'm happy about. Here are some photos of my fresh underbody sealer. I decided not to take too much of the old sealer off as the whole transmission tunnel had been protected with ATF from my leaky box. The hoist arms didn't fall through the sills! Enjoying that nice new clutch! Only issue I'm having now (after a free oil change) is firstly, I have oil weeping from my headgasket! I'm really worried about this. I drove the car about 30k and when I got home I noticed a small amount of oil had seeped from the head. The car still runs fantastically though... I haven't driven it since I got it home and I don't intend to. I'm thinking that it could be due to incorrect oil grade (I'm not sure what the boys put in but it was whatever was given to us by penrite) The oil could also be over-filled however I will double check tomorrow as when I checked it the car was on a steep incline and showed about 3cm above the full line on the dipstick. I also don't have any gauges at the moment which doesn't help due to (I suspect) a faulty voltage regulator. I really hope I'm not in for a rebuild of this beautiful L28 (F54 Block and P90A Head) Any ideas? Happy Easter! Andrew

I've been following some wiring diagrams and It's looking like the voltage regulator might be stuffed. I suspected this before and noticed one of the connectors is badly corroded but I cleaned it and still no go. However I did notice that when it was completely unplugged it made no difference to the gauges working or not. Anyone know what the voltage regulator actually does? Also, looks like the alternator interfaces directly with the voltage regulator which would explain why it's not charging? Here is a wiring diagram that I found online. It's pretty well exactly the same as the factory manual however I wanted to use this as I can draw on it etc. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-7sJCmAZ6KaTWs5a2JweXNoYmM/view?usp=sharing Sorry about the external link, the forum doesn't like the HUGE picture... Andrew

I've actually found quite a few other cases of this http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/303777-260z-gauges-not-working.html http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123110-260z-no-gauges-working/ I've decided tomorrow I'm going to #1 clean the under-dash ground, if that doesn't work then I'm going to take my tach out and manually ground it, if that doesn't work then I know it's power, which I will try next with and see if feeding 12v down that line will get all of my gauges to work. Is it 12V that the gauges take or 6V? If I still can't work it out then I'll probably make another loom for the gauges and do it that way! Andrew EDIT* http://forums.nicoclub.com/2009-240z-build-t403961-540.html Found this which might be worth a read if someone is having this issue?

Hmm, Mine was a 2+2 auto when the issue started. I hadn't changed any of the wiring etc. I also found that the kickdown switch didn't work. The was converted to manual the next day (it all happened the morning after I installed my clutch master and pedal) I'll keep you guys posted Andrew

That's sort of what I've been doing. Anyone know where the main ground is for the gauges?

As of now It isn't, would a failed alternator cause the gauges to fail as well? I'm thinking it's something else thats causing all of it not to work...

Hi all, a few days ago I started my z and none of my gauges were working (tach, oil, fuel, temp) the only ones that work are my clock, voltmeter (which seems a little dodgy) and speedo. I thought I may have knocked something out from under the dash as I was installing a clutch pedal for my manual conversion however I haven't been able to find anything. the only other thing is the night before I was charging the battery with another car. I drained the battery by leaving my door open all day whilst working on the car as well as the radio going. I left another car running with jumpers for about 15 mins to give the battery a bit of extra juice ready for a drive the next morning. The next morning I noticed first my tach wasn't working then my temp gauge/oil/fuel so I decided that I'd better run my thermofans manually due to my temperature controller being stuffed. Eventually the fans fully drained the battery and the car began to run really rough, so I shut her off and unplugged the fans (as they were running really really slowly) then got a jump from someone to get to where I was going. I think I have cooked something by charging the battery with jumper leads however I've checked all my fuses and they are fine (with a voltmeter) as well as my fusable link wires. Any help would be amazing!! Andrew

I was thinking matching them up in a list with their pressure plate heights such as 57mm Pressure plate - 25mm Carrier 42mm Pressure plate - 39mm carrier etc.

Hi all, I just put my new box in a few days ago and I thought I would say that if your pressure plate and thrust bearing come from the same motor they will be correctly matched. What would be fantastic would be a list of throwout bearing carrier sizes with their corresponding pressure plate heights which would make mixing and matching gearboxes much easier.