Andrew_L26

I've had 17x8.5's fit with a +4 offset that fit under the stock guards, 235's on the back and something a bit smaller up front as they do foul some components. Going to an 8" wide in a smaller diameter you'll have no issues

Hey, the heater core I believe is actually copper so it shouldn't rust. Would be worth taking it out and giving it a good clean though. As for the valve you're probably best off cleaning it up with a wire wheel. Paint probably won't last too long so perhaps look at getting the part nickel plated or give it a go yourself. May just be easier to buy a new part! Andrew

They're easy enough to come by once you get to know the z world a little better. Keep shopping around, perhaps put up a wanted ad on gumtree and on this forum. I have a brand new clutch and a used flywheel if you're interested? Andrew

Yeah I was speaking to the owner of the widebody z, the rear 1/4s look to be mostly in tact but the guards have been cut and would require over fender. I would have picked it up if it had compliance plates but they've been lost at some point along the way.

Check out this Datsun 260Z. https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Datsun-260Z-1977/SSE-AD-5351224 Thoughts? 40k for a 2+2 is hard to swallow...

Normally 50 years is celebrated with gold so I think that's where it came from!

To fix your muffler slant you'll most likely have to cut and reweld it unfortunately, unless you have a vband or something

Hey, the exhaust on my 77' 2+2 has one strap at the very rear of the car (where the exhaust tip is) and another strap on the other end of the muffler. However there was a hanger in front of the factory resonator. Not sure where it mounted though You can see the factory mounting points from this image here: Cheers, Andrew

Seeing as all the steering linkage is worn out on my zx I'm wanting to convert my reciprocating ball steering to the series two Rack and Pinion power steering. After the cross member and steering rack. After the Series 2 power steering rack and the crossmember to go with it. Preferably in Melbourne Also after a zx A/C condenser and the dust cover that goes between the engine and the flywheel (pictured below) Andrew

I was running 17x8.5 +4 offset and they fit perfectly in the rear under the guards, the front would only fit with a lower profile 205 tyre (compared to the 235's on the back) 235's will fit on the front if I trim the front valence a little though!

Just after a rear roof cut off a 2+2, perhaps some leftovers from a sunroof repair? Don't need the roof skin just the frame. Cheers, Andrew

So a few years later with far far more knowledge under my belt I decided to tackle this. I would imagine that just about every 2+2 with rust spots around the hatch hinge would look something like this, maybe not quite this bad but still! I'm going to be looking for a donor cut to repair this. Failing that I will make something up which will no doubt take many many hours! Andrew

Yeah, not really a fan of them. I'm wanting to keep the body as stock as possible however if I do need additional cooling on top of the factory vents I was going go with something like this. Andrew

It's worth saving for sure! It's bad but it doesn't appear to be past saving. I would say that it doesn't look much worse than my 2+2 that I'm saving (Mine has just had all these sections repaired very poorly so they require re-doing) If you can do the rust repairs yourself it won't actually end up costing you much money however it will take a hell of a lot of time. Door skins look pretty good really, guards also very repairable, bonnet has been modified and is stuffed. Hatch's can be replaced if worst comes to worst. Focus on the core body of the car and go from there. The undercarriage other than the aftermarket frame rails looks alright, very hard to tell from photos but the big filthy V8 has slung plenty of oil around which is good to prevent rust haha. The rear 1/4 appear to be in excellent shape other than the rust spot on the passengers side (I assume there was a dent there) and of course the doglegs. Surprisingly the lower rear 1/4 look excellent with what looks like minimul/no rust. The biggest thing is that there doesn't appear to be any/much body filler in the car which can give you confidence as that often means the car lacks shoddy repairs. Sure the car needs a heap of work but I wouldn't consider, even for a second that it isn't worth saving. I would get it stripped back (media blasted preferably) and go from there, It is very hard to tell exactly what is hiding under the paint and behind the panels but you're far better off finding out asap. If you decide that this car isn't the one you think is for you then I am certain that someone would get this car back on the road! Andrew

I had the asbestos wrapping around the fuel lines on my 77 260z, I think it was to help prevent vapour locking?

Hey guys, sorry to bring up the old thread! Just wondering how much modification these need to have a really good finish, I'm planning on grabbing a set (-the hatch) for my street zed on which I want a really polished finish. My current guards and bonnet are essentially garbage so I thought I could save a tonne of money and weight by using fiberglass as they appear to be about half the price of a repo steel one and probably less than half the weight, another reason I'm interested is that it's one less thing to worry about rusting! Love to hear your thoughts on these panels and how they compare to say repo steel panels. Cheers, Andrew

Yeah, It's looking like I'm not going to be able to get the vented version! I think I might just pick up a standard one, make a mould of the vents from a steel bonnet and then make a fibreglass vent section, cut and glass the section on. I might wait a little while as I'm not in any rush and if one does come up it will save me a heap of work! PS does anyone have any experience with Alfa motorsport, their panels are extremely cheap (something like 600 for a brand new bonnet and the guards are only around 400$ each) so I'm not sure what the fitment is like etc. Cheers guys, Andrew

Cheers! I'll check them out! I saw them, my only issue is that the bonnet isn't vented which is important for me as I'm going turbo so the extra heat has to go somewhere. I might see if he would sell just the guards though. Thanks guys

Hey guys, I'm after a fibreglass vented bonet and a set of fiberglass front guards. Just looking to reduce a little weight whilst avoiding rust repairs! Not too worried if they are damaged etc as long as it's not too serious! Happy with the older front guards without the hole for the indicators however I would really prefer a vented bonnet! Located: Melbourne (happy to organise freight) Price: Negotiable Cheers, Andrew

I can sketch up a design on solidworks if that would help you? I've got a few spares somewhere!

Yeah, I will do that when I get home tomorrow! Andrew

I've got a near new mechanical fuel pump that I'd be happy to let go, let me know if you're interested. Andrew

It's been awhile since I have updated this post but here is the latest! I have continued work on the passenger dogleg rust repairs, really happy with how it's turned out so far! I'm going to leave it unfinished for a while so I will be able to do some rust prevention once I finally get the supplies. Also got stuck into the rear hatch slam area and tail light surrounds. The slam area was a pretty easy repair but the only thing left to complete is the upper panel. I should be able to repair the one that I removed as it is not too badly damaged. Managed to source some good condition cuts from another 2+2 so I decided it would be best to cut the mess out around the tail light area. After being "repaired" quite a few times in the past I don't think it was feasible to do anything else. The fuel filler area was a funny one. Given the quality of repairs in other sections of the car and the view from behind I made the choice to make up a replacement section before even removing the filler. This would have worked great however I have sourced a cut from Scoota which will make this repair a breeze once it arrives! The amount of body filler was once again incredible! Got my copper fuel rail/wiring sleeve finished and mounted. I might end up replacing this with a palnet fuel rail in the future but I will see how this one goes first! Found some rust underneath the lead filler in the top of the passenger 1/4, wasn't expecting this so it was a bit of a pain but I will patch it up! Got my L28ET running which was a real motivator to hear the turbo spool! https://photos.app.goo.gl/fTRBXouX0zBTgdY93 Began work on my 71C gearbox conversion Finished off the bodywork in the engine bay and finally got it primed in a quality 2 Pac Primer! Got my front crossmember in as well as the rest of the front end. Motor is mounted! Using a modified Subaru GC8 Impreza fuse block for all the relays and fuses related to the turbo kit as well as the upgraded headlight relays. Intercooler piping coming along Got the engine running in the car with all the wiring functioning https://photos.app.goo.gl/N3P3AbYpR6pIyuAq1 Started work on the 3" exhaust 3" offset Magnaflow muffler and a 200cpi magnaflow catalytic converter (save the planet!) Custom twin stacked ANSA styled tips with duel 2" outlets as the last thing I want on my z is a huge fart cannon style outlet! Full stainless 3" exhaust Also managed to score a genuine working 260z radio! I've just picked up Liam's 1979 280zx hard top which I will also be working on. The link to that build thread is: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11913-280zx-project-bringing-a-beast-back-from-the-dead/?hl=beast If anyone wants to get updates as I work on the car I post all of my builds (Including a KE30 Corolla) they can follow my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/andrew_langford88/ Cheers guys! Andrew

As some of you may know I have decided to take on this project! I will be doing repairs in parallel with my 260z 2+2 and hopefully getting this zx back on the road whilst I continue work on my s30 I'm keeping roughly the same final vision however I will probably change to a gloss black instead of the matte going with ZG flares and fender mirrors. I started the small amount of rust repairs (by comparison to my s30) by repairing the small amount of rust that had eaten the surrounds of the fuel filler. I noticed that the metal on the s130 is significantly thicker than that of the steel in the s30's but I managed to find some thicker material lying around. I'm going to focus on reassembly of the engine bay for the next little while whilst I make up templates for s130 dogleg and rear guard repair sections I will occasionally post updates here however I mostly use Instagram to log my builds. It can be found at: https://www.instagram.com/andrew_langford88/ for those interested Andrew

Pm'd!