Cozza

Thanks, and castor?

Good info, so what alignment geometry do you run? For a 240z King Springs recommend KDFL08 for the the front which are progressive and, KDRL09 for the rear which are linear. Unless they’ve changed since I bought mine 4 years ago? BTW, here’s a link to a gumtree ad for the rears. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/st-clair/brakes-suspension/king-springs-kdrl-09-x1-pair/1106285691 Pending price, I’d be grabbing those Illuminas too.

d3c0y here is a quote from the OP “The goal for this build is to build a fun lively and predictable sports car. Excitement and enjoy-ability is key. This means I am leaning away from the "track car" style setup, but still want liveliness and predictability.” I don’t think you need to spend anywhere near $4k to achieve this. And why spend more than you need to? Also Koni yellows are externally adjustable at the shock top. I Wouldn’t be saying the Koni is “high end” in quality but, considering the price point of the MCA blues, I’m guessing the Koni yellows may be an equivalent quality shock to the ones MCA use, although a different length body to suit a lower ride height better maybe? I’d like to know the shock type MCA use though as a couple reviews I’ve read say they are Chinese made.

No, the Koni’s don’t need revalving if you run a medium weight spring rate but, if you were to go into something very stiff, I would think that it would be required. From memory, I think you can cut about 25mm out of the strut tube to suit the Koni yellow shocks to suit the 300zx. If You were to cut this out of the strut tube below the spring perch, I reckon you would get quite a nice stance. Probably an inch lower than the pics of D3c0y’s car that you are looking for. However, you may be getting into ride height territory that affects steering geometry enough that bump steer becomes an issue. My 240 currently runs King low springs and Tokico Illumina shocks. I cut the top coil from each front spring to get a more desirable ride height. The top coils had no effect on the ride as they were bound when under normal load anyway. I think this setup has been quite a good compromise as it’s comfortable on the road and with a 24mm front sway bar has been ok for track events. I’d like it to be a little lower but with the current spring rate around 170lbs/“ I reckon it may bottom the shock out if I go too low and then hit a decent sized bump. I rarely get the opportunity to drive it much anymore and becoming more focused toward track events, so want to stiffen it up a fair bit. I’m now going through my options as to my best solution and, what I can afford. MCA coilivers are prolly on the cards. Personally, I’d be putting the LSD pretty high up the list of to do’s, as it made a very positive change to the behaviour of my car.

Yep, far more rust than I’d be prepared to take on but, from the photos I’m not sure it’s the worst we’ve seen on this forum? I hope to see it stripped and blasted or deeped to see the full extent of the cancer.

That body solder looks interesting but, what’s the difference between that and a traditional body filler. I’m guessing they both plug holes but neither actually mix with the parent material like a weld. Looks like a proper metal repair though.

I can just picture you blokes tearing up Bathurst after watching this fella.

Yeah, I agree with d3c0y. If you’re looking for an enjoyable street car, don’t worry about spending big money with adjustable hoohaa, get some good springs and shocks, rebuild the original brakes and steering as required and enjoy. The z is a great setup straight out of the box and doesn’t need much more for the street. If you decide you want to get more track orientated later, and need more castor / camber worry about the adjustable arms then. I spent about $1200 a few years ago on my Subi lsd including the output shafts but it seems prices have risen a little since then. I found it to be a worthy upgrade as the rear end became more predictable than with the single spinner. Enjoy.

It’s still a flexible adhesive however, T Rex Power is one of the go to construction adhesive/sealant products these days. Sticks like oop to a blanket as they say. http://soudal.com.au/trexpowerbond/

You crack me up Peter ?

So your shift will go: 1 1+ 2 2+ With the OD unit switching on or off for every shift? Is it designed to do that?

What about Soda blasting? That’s what I did to my Weber carb bodies. It was reasonably gentle on the alloy but cleaned them up nicely. Cheap option too.

Cool, do they offer a variety of ratios? If so how do you pick the one you want? Interesting drive coupling from box to OD unit. Who you gonna get to build it all up?

To check this, set the engine up to TDC on number 1 firing. This can be done using a screw driver down No. 1 plug hole, then look at the timing marks on the balancer to confirm the pointer is aligned with the TDC mark.

If it's predominantly a road car and you're only going to the track once in a blue moon surely you get the optimal road tyre and enjoy whatever performance it provides at the track. Comfort and confidence is key to a road tyre I'd reckon.

Spot on Gordo. I also prefer a narrower road tyre than track tyre. No power steering makes 225's hard work plus get tram lined on my local roads with the wide and stiff side walled semis.

I would imagine replacing the 3 phase motor with a single phase would be reasonably inexpensive. Just a few hunjy I'd reckon. Probably cheaper than selling your existing and buying a new one. You could then sell the 3 phase motor separately to recoup the cost or, hold on to it on the off chance you move back to a place with 3 phase.

To post pics I'm pretty sure you must be in the full version, not the mobile version of the site.

That looks great. Is it a retro sound antenna too? I hope you've got a few hours spare for a cruise tomorrow arvo cause I'm sure you'll sail through the inspection. Congrats Mate.

Sounds a bit strange. Dwell shouldnt change by adjusting your dizzy. Dwell is relative to opening time of the points. Do you mean timing?

With my current setup, 0 offset would obviously scrub more but, with some stiffer springs prolly wouldn't be an issue. I need some stiffer springs to stop my door handles scraping anyway. 200lb/in is good for a road car but not enough for track work.

Moar pics Mossy, you're car looks great!

I run 225/45/15's Nitto semi slicks on15x8 +4 wheels as track tyres. Guards are standard. They clear the strut no problem but sometimes scrub the wheel arch a little bit if I drive home from the track with them on and hit typical Sydney potholes. Nothing serious though. I run King low springs all round on standard struts and Tokico Illumina shocks. I'd imagine if your car was lower or had softer shocks you would notice more scrubbing. Cheers Mick

Congrats on a job well done, and well deserved. You must be over the moon. Now it's all about drive time and minor refinements. Enjoy!! I'm looking forward to seeing it in the metal some time. Mick

Wow, what a fantastic finish you have achieved. It looks fantastic Mate Congratulations.