Cozza

BTW, nice work Locky. Just wondering why you go from twin secondary’s into a single pipe and back out to twin pipes to the rear? Is there any rear muffling, or just the centre box?

Be careful Gav, next it will be mk63’s, then a LY head, then a works cam, then some factory coil overs, then...... ?

Great. Cheers Mate.

Nice pics ? Did you go flat through the kink Richard?

Should have asked Mrs Jeff, she’s pretty good on Datsun trivia ?

Nice work, they will look great after powder coating. Just wondering if you are going to press the bushes out of the lower control arms or leave them In during the process?

Sidetracking somewhat but I’m intrigued by your taste in property. How do you come across them, nothing like that has ever come up using my search criteria ? The Adelaide property is definitely unique but seems to stick out like a sore thumb in the neighbourhood. You’d grow some solid calf muscles walking the stairs. The Warragul one is enormous but a little hard on the eye.

Fixed

Wow. Good buy! Looks like it will come up well and, without too much work. Looking forward to seeing it on the road Mate.

Me too

Yeah they appear to be in quite good nick, just need a clean up. If you pm me a phone number, I will send some pics Price at your discretion Mate. You may have to give the courier a nice cold beer though. I’ll get him to touch base with you. ?

Hi Richard. The taillights are all yours for a donation of whatever you think they’re worth to the site. Doesn’t look like I’ll make Bathurst this year unfortunately. I think I will be able to arrange for another member to bring them up for you though. He likes beer ? ? Let me know if you want some pics but basically they look as per the images PB posted at the beginning of this thread.

Hi Guys. I still have a bunch of 280zx parts that need to go. I’ll be sending them to the metal recyclers in 2 weeks if there is no interest. Tail light assemblies GONE Door and boot locks and fuel tank cap keyed alike incl key Ignition barrel with key PS steering box and linkages Electric window mechs and switch gear Original radio (come on Gav) GONE Tow bar (no goose neck) Front and rear side windows with tint Air filter box Rear springs and shocks Booster and master cylinder GONE AC condenser Radiator Sugar scoops Electric mirrors Front Wiper motor Rear wiper motor and arm Front toe hooks Front and rear bumpers GONE Front sway bar Steering wheel GONE Washer bottle and pump Radio trim peices GONE T top bags Random electric bits and bobs ie fusible links and box, relays associated with vacuum pollution doo hicker etc. Luggage straps Horns Gear knob and boot Handbrake lever All parts are in used condition, happy to send pics if you pm me your phone number Happy to post at your expense Cheers Mick

About 4 or 5 years ago I used VHT roll bar and chassis rattle cans in satin black. I baked most parts in an oven, they came up great and have stood the test of time. Well 4 or 5 years anyway ? I’m quite happy with the results and I found the rattle cans to be convenient too. http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-roll-bar-chassis-paint There’s some pics in my build thread somewhere. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/7390-micks-240/#msg94155 Cheers Mick

R100 asking prices have been above the $100k mark for a couple years. I have no idea what the actual sale price is, or how long they take to sell at that price though.

Yeah seems to be priced quite low compared to the others. Maybe the market has turned!! ? quick everyone time to sell up. ?

I can see this being an issue under load/ acceleration but not idle. Sounds like the rear carb has a high float level or similar. I know you mentioned you’d swapped carbs front to rear and the problem remained at the rear. Any chance there is higher fuel pressure on the rear carb? Maybe leave the carbs as they are but run the fuel lines so the rear outlet of the fuel rail feeds the front carb and vice versa and monitor the afr’s. Checking the valve clearances would be a wise idea too.

The shaft in your 1st pic today doesn’t look original anyway, it seems to have 2 sliding yoke joints, 1 at the gearbox and the 2nd between the 2 parts of the shaft. From my understanding an original 71a box would have had a flange connection at the gearbox just like at the diff not a sliding yoke joint.

Good job Lurch you Datsun Weirdbeard.

It’s not so much that they need to be tight but the idea is that they don’t leak.

That’s intriguing, can you post a pic of how it was stuck into the differential?

Pm sent

You want 4 of the 8641-1060 sport shocks That kit has 2 x 8641-1060’s and 2 x 26-1248’s I have no idea if they will suit your needs but I’m guessing not. So, you’re half way there.

Would liked to have come along but have anniversary celebrations this weekend. Doubt I’ll be able to convince the mrs to come to Datsun Day.

Yeah it does look a bit funny but not sure it looks smooth enough to of been machined / ground.