GongZ

I just thought I would add to this. The container of "Special Punch Grease - do not eat" that came with the flaring tool is very small. I tried searching for the grease to see if it can be purchased separately, without success. I then found this article; http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tip-how-to-better-way-make-brake-line-double-flare-red-rubber-grease.html - which says "Red rubber grease is not the best metal to metal lubricant, but because it is compatible with brake fluids and will not contaminate brake lines it works great in this particular application." Red rubber grease is readily available.

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/st-albans/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z/1172300858

The Nikki pump that I have came with an engine I bought recently. I retrieved the original fuel pump from my 9/73 240Z from storage today and it is also an 'Atsugi' brand with 'M13' stamped into the top cover.

Yes - still a good find - keep it up!

I see flasher relays - not switches

You are correct John. My original Nikki has a stripped thread in the main body - so I will either use a helicoil to fix it or just use the new pump. Welcome to the forum by the way.

Hello John, I read the tutorial that Gavin has linked to in his reply. The tutorial says that rebuild kits may still be available in Australia - so I tried my local Nissan dealer and they can't supply them. I could not find a suitable Nikki pump on eBay to use as the tutorial recommends. I ended up buying one of these fuel pumps for $64 (including shipping); Mechanical Fuel Pump GMB 550-8040 fits 70-73 Nissan 240Z 2.4L-L6 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mechanical-Fuel-Pump-GMB-550-8040-fits-70-73-Nissan-240Z-2-4L-L6/232529564497?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 It is virtually identical to the Nikki pump, so you could use it as is, or as a donor to rebuild your original. I might just use it with the Nikki top cover.

I have always thought that cadmium plating was a yellow/gold colour. Your question made me wonder, so I had a bit of a Google and discovered that the yellow colour is due to a "chromate conversion" coating that is applied over the cadmium to give better corrosion protection.So I think I should have said 'cadmium chromate'. http://www.chemprocessing.com/page.asp?pageid=54&

I have recently gone through this exercise. I Googled the crap out of it, but couldn't find anything definitive about what the original lines were made of, or coated with. I did not come across any original advertising or road test photos that showed them and they seem to be very camera-shy in later photos. I suspect that they were cadmium plated steel, and therefore a yellow/gold colour. All the local brake shops use steel Bundy tubing which has a silver appearance. I bought a pair of supposedly genuine Nissan brake transfer lines from the US a few years ago and they look like this; The brackets you can buy on eBay are also a 'gold' colour. So based on the above, I have decided to use kunifer aka cunifer aka cupro-nickel lines. This material has the 'gold' look and is apparently easier to bend and flare. It is also reported to maintain its appearance better than Bundy tubing. (the first use of Kunifer was by Volvo in 1976 - so 240Z's certainly didn't use it) The next question was 'how much do I need?' - Google failed me again! A US eBay seller used to list a hard brake line kit which included a total length of 39'3" - a bit over 12 metres. I couldn't find a local supplier so I have therefore ordered two 25 foot rolls (about 15 metres) of kunifer tubing from a UK eBay seller. I may buy more, together with some 5'16", line to do the fuel supply and return lines. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cupro-Nickel-Kunifer-BS-EN12449-3-16-x-25ft-Brake-Pipe-FAST-DISPATCH/322954439336?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 - and it's 'rigid' by the way - Ridgid is a US based tool manufacturer.

It really hurts when the shipping costs more than the item.

1974 Datsun 260Z 2+2 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/craigieburn/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z-2-2/1170632405 Craigieburn, Vic $6,000.00 negotiable "Datsun 260z 2+2 , don't have time to restore it , it's need full restore , Rust in the usual places, Engine doesn't run . $6000 ono" https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/MkoAAOSwVNxaTSs0/$_20.JPG

Hi Tony, I realise that this is an old topic, but on the chance that you might still be looking for one - This eBay listing for a "Datsun 240Z LH Front Indicator" is actually a RH housing; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-LH-Front-Indicator-/152853619002?

1976 Datsun 260Z 2+2 project https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322981671083?ul_noapp=true Ulladulla, NSW Starting bid: $1,000.00 Auction ends Thursday, 11 Jan, 2018 11:49:02 AEDST "Datsun 260Z 2+2 1976, currently just the chassis, needs extensive welding repair and body work. Engine and drive train need rebuild. has 5 speed manual. needs new interior, mostly complete."

1974 Datsun 260z 2 seater Tarmac Rally Car https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1974-Datsun-260z-2-seater-Tarmac-Rally-Car/263415219584?hash=item3d54c54580:g:FQoAAOSwa81aSzhz The Gap, QLD Auction ends Tuesday, 9 Jan, 2018 19:03:27 AEDST "1974 260z 2 seater Tarmac Rally prepped Chassis No. RS30 000769 Cams log booked with certified full steel roll cage Techno toys adjustable lower control arms front & rear Coil overs with Bilstein shock inserts & king springs (300ibs front & 250ibs rear) Velo race seats Terra trip rally computer with upgraded Stilo intercom system Fresh L28 with new triple 40mm webers c/w Airbox Custom headers and mandrel bend exhaust system front to back Refreshed 71C box with Albins close ratio gearbox (1st, 2nd & 3rd) R200 LSD 4.4 Custom captive engine mounts Front & rear disc brakes (Holden commodore calipers & WRX rotors on front with R31 discs & calipers on rear Willwood brake bias adjustment Performance 15 x 8 rims with Yoko A050 Tarmac tyres Fibreglass rear bumper Fibreglass bonnet & rear hatch Fibreglass front & rear spoilers Reconditioned original radiator with high efficiency fins ULX110 oils used throughout Engine and driveline Reskinned original dashboard with VDO gauges (original speedo & auto meter tachometer) Fully MSD ignition system c/w MSD High Tension leads Fully sorted car and ready for competition (61 seconds lakeside. 2.53 Bathurst, 1.27 Morgan Park circuit K"

1977 DATSUN 260Z 2+2 Manual COUPE https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1977-DATSUN-260Z-2-2-Manual-COUPE/112727495243?hash=item1a3f15124b:g:D6YAAOSwnDpaNigh West Hoxton, NSW Auction ends Friday, 12 Jan, 2018 16:37:24 AEDST 1977 DATSUN 260Z 2+2 Manual COUPE "Very Good Original Collectable 260Z 2+2 Coupe Owned recently by the previous owner since 1977 with a Genuine Low 120,611Km’s All Matching Numbers, Original panels, Owners Service Manual Has some minor rust around the bottom of the doors The overall body is in great condition for a 41 year old car Drives great Eligible for NSW. Club Registration"

HS30-00409 This eBay auction reached $23,300. It was re-listed on eBay and is now at $22,100 (ends at 21:02 AEDT on Wednesday). The seller also put it on Gumtree on 28/12/2017 at $40,000 or offer, and reduced it to $38,000 or offer today.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-NISSAN-240Z-S30-JDM-FAIRLADY-Z-FRONT-FENDER-EMBLEM-BADGE-NEW-OEM-/162591833590 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/31-1120 https://www.z1motorsports.com/aero-and-body/nissan-motorsports/jdm-s30-fairlady-fender-emblem-metal-p-4453.html

I did some Googling and it seems that the ballast resistor is 1.6 Ohms. This one on eBay (it's even in Adelaide!) should be suitable; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SINGLE-COIL-BALLAST-RESISTOR-1-6-OHMS/263309523686?hash=item3d4e787ae6:g:6mkAAOSw42JWDeL8

I bet you're a good wrapper Mick.

The spacers arrived from the UAE 3 days after I placed my order.

Datsun 260Z Project car (1976 2+2) Wollstonecraft, NSW, Australia Starting bid:AU $11,900.00 Auction ends 01 Jan, 2018 11:12:37 AEDST https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/222765109446?ul_noapp=true "I am selling my 260Z 1976 project car. My plan was to bring her back to its original conditions. But my life started to get busy so I decided to pass it to someone who shares the same passion. I cut out the rusted areas, welded and painted with high-quality Sikkens solid and clear. It looks a brand new 260. The engine was taken out of the car to be able to paint the engine bay. I haven't touched the motor yet. I was going to change all the gaskets and seals which I ordered from Japan. The car was in running condition. The previous owner said to me that the engine has been rebuilt about 4-5 years prior to my purchase. SU carbies need to be rebuilt too. The clock says 7068k but I m not able to tell the exact ks it has done. The car is located near Crows Nest but the car originally registered in VIC. The registration has expired about 10 years ago. I have got all the original parts plus new parts - Urethane bushes Mount bushes Tokiko suspensions and springs from US New seat covers fitted Dashboard cover - Molded in the shape of the dash Japanese style fender mirrors A set of American spirit alloy and BF Goodrich radial tires. Wood steering and a new shift knob from US I also have lots of Japanese vintage car magazines for and manuals. I was going to create 260 which is a cross between Japanese and American style. Pick up only. You need to arrange tow truck and a van to be able to bring back other parts. No claim no return" Chassis: GRS30-010774 Engine Number: L26-146802

I have found a flywheel and edited the first post - thank you all.

Good point Agno. These two topics are also worth looking at in relation to headers; http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/5610-240z-exhaust-hurricane-headers/ http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13978-stainless-steel-exhaust-manifolds-exhaust-and-jdm-twin-pipe-rear-silencer/?do=findComment&comment=165973

Oops, I clicked 'send' then went to another window. I then discovered that it had not been sent because I didn't fill in the 'subject' - you now have a pm from me!

I have sent you a PM.