dat2kman

Another Queenslander! We're breeding like cane toads!!! Welcome to the wonderful world of Zed

Ratio change on 2nd to 3rd sift will still give you a lot of rpm drop, thus "falling" off your cams torque peak. Sorry Greg, only way to fix it is a close ratio gear set, which will eliminate the rpm drops, unless you don't mind revving the tits off it at 9000 rpm! I'm doing two boxes at moment with these cr sets, and will have one for sale soonish, and no don't want swaps for a 80 series Landcruiser!!!! The original early 260 box with 2.9 first gear will be better, it has same ratios as 240z and Datsun Sports 3 piece boxes

Im still coming down in late November! and if they is still hanging around, Ill come by, to check these over. No use me buying something that when they arrive i then think, O damn why did I just do that. benny if you sell em, you sell em. I seem to be real good at collecting wheels, just ask Lurch he's seen them ALL

simon, Ill have to direct email them to you, pm me the addy, pics of x meb as well as rack! it had 205/60 x 14 on 7x14 mags, and I was surprised at that it wasnt that hard, much less harder then my race zed, with lot more neg camb and 4 deg caster, and shortned arms the steer arms on the zx are a fair bit longer, but approx 3.5 turns lock to lock. I drove the ting up and down my driveway a couple of times just to "test" it MMMWWWAAAAHAHAHA Sorry I didnt put a Nm force rotational tester onto the steering whee before I wrecked it!!! Im down in Melb late November could bring stuff down with ne no probs.

Yep sure did, got a whole car , parted it out, I was surprised, same amount turns lock to lock, better steering feel, and best of all no extra weight of the power steering extra stuff needed. I checked the cross member to other zx's it is the same it will NOT go into a 240/260 chassis rails. The rack also will not not fit 240/260

But we're tryin real hard up here!!!

Got one here, westside Bris, series 1 non power steer, so less weight to have to drag around, and no leaks $150 Can supply crossmember, but they all the same in the zx's

Yay, more Brizzy Zeds! One day we will take over, one day!!! Welcome!

Start the bucket list with "great driving roads of Australia" there has to be a top ten in each state. Eg QLD Hampton to Esk Atherton tablelands down by Mt Bartle Freer to Cairns The gap MtNebo MtGloriousWivenhoe dam Cmon, let's add a few more from each state in Aus!! Greg, Nurburgring is absolutely amazing, you've done Bathurst, just think from Griffins bend ( top of mountain straight) to Forrest's Elbow, but 23 kilometers long!!! aND the roads all through Germany's Black Forest(Schwarzwald) are just so fantastic as well!

Yes, well done, even sitting in the silly seat, it is very nice to have one of these under you belt. I got mine in 1988 in NSW. AND that WAS in a Z !!!!

Yellow 280ZX with Auto trans and a aftermarket sunroof??? is expecting to get 6000 to 10,000 at auction, he has hammered the Datsun clubs all around Aus with its details. ( phone calls and emails) Sounds desperate to move it on! If it was a manual, maybe, but not at that silly dollar figure, more like 2000 tops!!

In worst case scenario, if you are in a car accident, and if forensic investigation is warranted, and you are running a wheel alignment setting that may be able to be deemed a contributor to the accident, due to inability for your car to operate, you will be in a bit of bother. Castor is built into the cars geometry for a reason, more castor is acceptable, less is considered dangerous, due to the cars inability to self centre the steering from a turned towards lock position. Likewise the old bone of contention regarding larger dimension rims, and non standard components, no matter how well engineered or certified they are. Safest suggestion would be to stick to the standard alignment specs, and rethink your true rim combination

Have two sets of Performance RR4 suit L series 6 cylinder, done 40 hours use at up to 7500 rpm, are all at the manufactured free height, ends chambered and rebutted. Car runs a fairly decent lift cam. Sell for $140 a set includes postage to any in Aus

Yeah, I'm still in the dark ages, can't work these newfangled dang computers out, I still can't stick the little plastic card thing from the camera I have that takes gigapixel photos, into the usba slot on the front of my pooterbox I worked out how to use the little slide out thing to hold my can of jb& coke, that's cool, cept when it slides back in, I have to quickly grab the can! Someone on here ring the guy up, and do the picture thing. One day I'll work out how to do stuff as long as it is easy and post crap loads of old skool stuff I have, as well as current in car, my last run at Morgan park had me start rear of grid in a 30 car field, I finished fourth, the incur vid is fun on the first couple of laps. Lurch, tell me about Lincoln welders?

Umm, let's see, um oh, read the last line of the original post. I haven't seen it, maybe someone here in Brissy could ring him, go and take pics etc an post up. The seller wants it gone asap, at that price it should go soon, so by the time we all muck around with posting pics, someone will have grabbed it. Anyone serious! Just ring the guy up and go from there. Kinda like the good old dark days many eons ago with the fortnightly newspaper edition of The Personal Trading Post, no pics, no webs, if you wanted it, you rang the seller, and made direct arrangements, if you liked it, bingo you bought it.

1976 260 2+2, red, complete, was running, needs more body work, some work done, selling by the owner, (not by me, but he contacted the Z Club Qld and we said we'd help out!) Call him DIRECT, on 3355 0856 or mobile 0437 547 345 He is an apprentice and is moving house and needs this gone ASAP, he has done some rust removal, but tells me some minor bits left, it has stock components, and did start but wouldnt idle/run, so it will be a trailer job for sure, he is chasing $1500, but is negotiable. If anyone contacts him from here to find it has been sold, please post so we dont keep ringing him. sorry I dont have pics, contact him, or better yet go and see it, take pics and post!

Your current front to rear spring rates are too far apart, for now, leave the sways alone, but fit the stiffer rear springs, and go out and do laps and laps. While testing, try the idea of slackening off the rear drop links to the rear sway, this will reduce the tendency of overseers at rear, due to the higher rear spring rate, even playing around with using either or rubber or urethane sway bar link rubbers, front to rear can alter things. I used to practice a single constant radius corner in a large industrial carpark, and measure the time as well as car speed from one point to the next, on the radius, to see what playing around with sway bars, rubbers, no sway bars loose rubbers etc would do. This is all detailed in the Fred Puhn book, as above mentioned.

That Mazda guru taking his time, as usual! He nearly did my pp13b but was a bit pricey for a "first" motor, maybe the next gun one! He is good for some 330 hp at fly. Guys, the entries for this event close real soon, and it is a case of first in gets a run, don't forget only 15 at this event, the Z club has only bought ONE slot of 15 cars, not the whole track like at Lakeside recent events. Contact the original poster of this thread asap

I got a call yesterday, young bloke here in Brisbane, has exactly what you ate after, a complete car, 260 2plus, engine sort of runs, may need a bit of a tune, has had major rust removed, still needs minor body work. He needs to move this on, as his current rental place is finishing, and he has nowhere to take it too He as chasing $1500 but I reckon that's negotiable Pm me for details and his contact numbers

Now days you can buy them, back a while you had to cut and weld them approx 10 to 15 mm shorter, and had to heat them cherry red and quench in oil to put the strength back in. I think Arizona z car sell a set in alloy that are 10 mm shorter, which quickens steering, rather than trying to remake the rack and pinion into a "quick rack" and they lower the control arms so that they angle a bit more downwards at the outboard ends. This helps to lessen bump steer effect, which they get when you lower a car. Yes they are good for track work, and tight turns at slow speed will be a bit harder

Neutral bay, hey! Well it's getting closer, Zed74 and I both have ax 5 speeds for sale, but at least Brisbane is closer than Northcote. Can arrange freight easy!

the piston seals in the calipers should be a square section, as you press brake pedal, the fluid pushes piston, and the seal sort of grips and folds out, when you take foot off pedal the sort of folded out square edge of the seal sort of oulls the piston back. In a perfect world!! Sometimes lack of use may cause the seals to not fold forwards and backwars, thus causing the pistons to not rtract, hence pads rubbing. I suffer from too much flexing, and pad knock off, ie the discs wobble/bend and push pads back, so much so, that I have to hit the pedal to get height, then hit the pedal again to brake for a corner ( racing car) the guys following me dont know what the heck i am doing, seeing lights flashing on and off, etc, it causes them a deal of confusion , too bad!

Any local Auszcar guys, you are welcome to have a go at this, you dont need to join the Z car club etc etc, but you do need to contact the original poster above to register interest, we have some 4 spots left for the afternoon, no fuss no pressure, just a chance to get out to QR and have a bit of a go there instead of Lakeside, something different!! Cheap entry fee too, you will need a AASA licence just for the day you get that on the morning for 20 bucks paid to QR office.

I've had a bit to do with Bolwell cars, but when this cropped up, to say it is styled on a Bollie, is an abberration, it must have been a pretty well stuffed in the front 240 with no motor able to be sourced to go for this front end and a GM red donk. The front opening is too narrow, Bollwell's were much wider, this looks more like a old Triumph tr or Bug eye Sprite!

Check all nuts/ bolts, in my cars ( racing mind!) the four tailshaft to diff bolts ease off, the rear of diff to moustache bar bolts, need a snig up, and the moustache bar to body nuts ,in there there is a "gap" I filled it with packed washers as a spacer trying to chase clunks sort of worked. The culprit was the stock rubber band over the diff nose, it was fine, it stopped the nose of the diff trying very hard to join me inside the passenger compartment! The front diff mount in our old greasy oily stretched rubber 30 year old cars don't last long. I replaced it with a solid mount and no rubber band, now the whole thing is so solid it transmits horrendous noise into the cabin, but just stick a helmet on ya head, while ya drive drive around!!!