dat2kman

Present a '64 model, with the run on rules it can be fitted with R16, twin hitachi su, a close ratio box it may have to run as a SS with SS instruments and badges, as the SSS was later, you dont want to be in Nc, as, at large meetings they split N into two groups, ie all the quicks in a Nc race, and all rhe oldies in a combined NaNb races, which is sensible. Simon Brown runs a wreckets in Melnb, on his facebook wall he has put pics of the old nissans racing, also inside front or somewhete of old ausdie motor race yearbooks are pics of all class winners from years ago, plenty of 411, 1200 and 1600 with lots of names there.. Ya gotta pick Lous brains re Horton Poulters Taga Tassie 411 that car would qulaify for gp N, id reckon, besides the cams officers are too old to remember just what was done, but if you fronted with day a much more modern engine, it would be a "no" Andre Briet runs a Fairlady 1600 with a slightly?? Modded R motor in gp S prod sports, does well, has a ball, and cheap to run, his mate Claude Movia, along with Syd Carr, all from NSW Dato Roadster club will be very happy to help get one of tnese up and running. Cams logbooking procedure is not at all difficult either!

Dave, over on ozdat in f/s section someone is parting out a 411 SSS! Dunno whats left? My mate and neighbour is the head/chairman of the Historic Touring CarElegibility Panel at CAMS. He is keen for little ones to come and play, adds a bit of variety. You just have to "prove"that all the competition options were fitted to any 411 that was sold, and you can then present a car matching that. Surely thete is someone on hete that has old documents that shows one of tnese was bougjt brand new and bristling with all the goid gear, i am sure Lurch has some very old paperwork in his collection, he has got some for me to look at, all original and genuinely fascinating, it is!!!

Very valid car, these raced in mid 1960's at Bathurst, so they cannot knock you back, also sold in Australia, so you afe in. As far as mods go, whatever rules for Gp n would apply, also the year of msnufacture would have ypu with NaNb fields, not with later post 1970 Nc, so, you would be well in with a chsnce of class outright awards!!! Re mods, well, bigger brakes, Lou' special suspension, as per Horton Poulters tarmac 66 Bluey, the motor would have to shown, as being available somewhere in tne world as being fitted, you know, in South Africa, i am sure they WERE!!! Get a hold og rulrs for year specific NaNbNc and ask more questions. I can get you onto the . "rigjt" elegibility people, and in order to get more cars like this, ceryain things would be accepted, but not spoken about,,,, OK!!! Some correct badges, and correct dash would be needed, the shell could be normal 411. A stink hot Lou motor that loves to rev Go for it!

We been pming, but ill have to pass on the box, so if anyone wants it, go! Is gonna be too hard to get kt, and if i freight it the plus cost kills it for what i want it for. Bugger!

I dont reckon you are off topic 1600 Dave, after all the op was of a historic Gp N race. What do you ave in mi d, what mods would ypu like? Other ars not on the lists can be offered for consideration in both N&S, bearing in mind cut off dates for the subclasses, but run on models are permitted. Cams historics often muck up the lists, so just cos ypu cant find it dont mean it wont be allowed. Fwiw, by time you prepare setup and get it to a track, the cost of a new car can be steep, consider buying a proven performer! Oh, like my Z! Or if you want to play historic sports sedans group U, i have a front running car also for sale, $25 k

Brian, i can help you for a rear bumper, pm me a offer price on it!

I'll take the box, deduct the clutch assy, keep that with the flywheel and engine, you had 550 on box with clutch assy, pm me, also is it no gearknob with box, or no gearstick? Im in brisbane cash ready pick up any time!

Maybe, if they were a decent width, say 8 or 9" youd get that, thete are so many others out tjere, and just because Tony made them, doesnt mean they are that special. Id say 800 at the most, even less on evilbay I can get watanabe lookalikes, we all can!, for around 200arim, and they look fooly sik on Zeds!

And, fwiw, my 2litre four cylinder 1968 genuine historic group T Datsun, at same meeting, was put in the Group S prod sports field, im doing lap times equal to the top 6 group Nc cars, and i have to contend with 7 litre Corvettes, 5.8 litre DeTomao Panteta's, 2.7 and 3.0 litre Porka's, six cylinder Zed's, and i still manage fourth outright A decent longwheel base Z in Gp N would give them a run for their money, btw the little Mk1 escort runs a full house Cosworth BDA twincam engine, 10.000 rpm, the rx2 runs to 10.000, both run four speed boxes and are doing 250 kmh, going into turn 1 ( i'm at 245 kmh, with no roof, wind buffetting is a concern!)

Bloody Porka's, it isnt enuf that the krauts get massive concessions on rim size allowance in homologation papers for historic prod sports, but, as well, some numpty back in the early 1970's managed to be accepted in his Porka in a touring car race, cos it had a miniscule excuse for a back seat, at Calder Park raceway, and bingo, it qualifies as a Touring car for historic group N. Alfa GTV 105's are same. But just anyone try this with a 260 Z 2+2 , you will get howled down, even though one ran in qualifying at Bathurst 1000, but was a no show for the actual race. Sorry Mike, its an Aussie thing! In group N you can run bigger brakes, wider rims, alloy radiators, greater camber, lighter weight, BUT NO 260 four seater! Phuckern barstools (just quoting a old Datsun driver, from his in car footage from Bathurst races!)

I have a large selection of gearsticks, approx 15, from various 71 boxes, A,B&C, they all have odd bends forwards, backwards, big bits of flats at pivot, and straight up. The earlier 240 with a71a a longer box, the stick is straight, the later 71b the box shifter location was closer to engine, and to get stick i. Good psition, factory bented it back a bit. Some have S bends etc. All nothing a bit of trimming a hole and screwing a bit of rubber flap wont fix The factory competition option 1 2 3 boxes all had straight sticks, and a wooden knob, with a small silver metal button imbedded.

Hey, Peter, and others, i'd leave those extractors alone, yes a bit ugly in wrap, but the design is a best of both worlds, compated to low/midrange usual 3-2-1 , and a high rpm scavenging 6-1.

I might be getting one in, only issue is, it has a Nissan clutch pack LSD inside it! Looking at $1300, if it turns up, wont happen for at least six weeks though?

Oooohhh i feel for ypu! It isnt ubtil ypu start to fully strip, and then start to soda or abrasive blast, that ypu then really discover just how bad it can be, chap up hete sorta got too far in to his early 240, and got tooint of having spent $10 k plus on body, and bit the bullet, and kept going, ended up costing another 10k, but it now looks absolutely A1. Pzg302 has a quite rust free 240 shell avail right now, but it def needs a good rust free front half, to graft onto his good rear half, the old two become one job!

Nothing wrong with those extractors, i use the next best design for high hp at high rpm, a 6 into 1 design, that circulates in firing order, to scavenge the primaries. Works pretty good for me. BTW to replicate this package woul easy cost $10,000, nothing could be simpler than this little lot, as a straight drop in. Odd thing is most of us all reckon we can build a mousetrap on the cheap, but wont admit that when it comes to costs vs performance, we spend a heck of a lot. Today, to put a top class decent Z on track or tarmac, or dirt, will cost at least $60,000, why spend all that, just buy someones proven performer, at far less cost!

Go figure, there is possibility that within your Alt, when you last drove your car, and you shut the engine off, the brushes could have collapsed due to wear, the rotor could have just ground through the stator windings due to bearing wear, or, a wire dislodged due to vibration. These things do happen to our 30 plus year old components! You then hop back in, a few days later, turn the key, energise everything, of poof, wires fried. Just be thankfull we have the great Samurai Warrior, Hitachi, helping us, the british have evil nasty Doctor Lucas!!!

send pm to pzg302 on here, his certainly hasnt been rolled, but does need a little pulling out of front rails and frame, firewall back not too bad.

Boys boys boys, sorry, Benny has got it, pending payment via transfer, it includes free express transport to Melbourne too, well, as express as my Transit van with rally car on trailer can do!!! I'll post up a tutorial on how to fully grind flywheels by hand on my new drill press soon, i reckon i can get it from 14 kg to 4 kg, at 3000 rpm hekd on a half inch diam bit of threaded booker rod, no probs!!! Mad Carnt Engineering!

Ok, i replied to benny, waiting for answer, if no go, sexsush is in for second, if no go matpzg has thirds, only fair I went to hare and forbes today and got a big mofo 3/4 hp 16 speed kickass, now i can stick a flwheel in it and grind it down with some 80 grit wet and dry!!! Mwahhahaha the mad bastard is at it again!

Pump tyres up to 50 psi, even higher, rolls easy then, you did say you checked all brakes, the rears could have a bit of residual pressure in lines, and handbrake not fully releasing, at caliper end. Front pads can drag a tiny bit, but not enough to worry

Sell gearbox separately?? I'll be in for that if someone else wants just engine Those rb20det boxes can only handle so much, someone might want to upgrade or already have a rb25det box??

1/3rd hp, 240 volt single phase compact bench drill press, capacity, 1 mm to 13.5 mm 5 speed 600 to 2500 rpm belt drive Hight and swing adjustable table, drill chuck and key $70 Can bring to Melbourne in mid November! Selling due to upgrade to big mofo drill press! Pm or ring o4o3o71294

Bluey's and 280zx internals all same, maybe a few minor changes to casting patterns markings, and location of some swiches, ie fuel injection needs to know if you in fifth gear etc. To use the r31 cluster with centreplate, extension housing assy into a L series bell housing to make it bolt to any L motor, a few things need to be done, drill top selector shaft hole to 16mm use emery to make smooth. Prize off countershaft bearing on r31 cluster, as you need to use the smaller L series front countershaft bearing. Behind this bearing is a circlip, holding a stepoed washer onto two tangs on the countershaft. , i mount this onto a old dummy c/shadt in my lathe and turn it down on outside edge to remove the lip, as ypu need to get rid of lip to be less diam than the L series c/shaft bearing, you can grind it off by hand gringong wheel, it is not important, BUT it has to go back on, and ciclip put back. Push small diam bearing on, and fit L bell, presto the easy way to do it. If you in Brisbane i can have it all done quick as a flash!

Whitehorse Industries in Melbourne make the rim innets and outers for these, so fairly straight forward repair, for those based in mexicanland!

SOLD pending payment, its going to Melbourne, for a rally car!