dat2kman

I get what you mean! Yes wider rubber grips, therefore something has to give, the weakest link thing! See if you can get ungreasable unis, ie no nipples, heck, Nissan made gazillions for Dato 1600, and 240 k c110 c210 etc, all with no greae nips, sealed and greased for life. Stew Wilkins used to be able to re uni them, but he would send them out to a driveshaft mob, maybe adk around. Yes other option is the cv convetsion, tjrse handle heaps more powere, but at end of day, you have been stressing something, renew them, they'll last a long time again, just stop doing clutch dump drag starts! Mental picture,,,, A cross dressing transvestite, squatting on the start line of a 100 metre race, and she/he, has jst shat through its lacy knickers !!! Oohh horrible!

See above re sold, sorry Z i am not up on the cv issue, i know they are better. At transmisdion f power, with less friction losses, not sure about the 300 zx cv shafts, someone on ozdat was saying tjey are a flanged each end with four bolt to suit our 260 diff stubs, and outboard flanges?? Not sure? Good pal up here, but not on forums, he is 72 years old, please forgive him, has a very wicked b30 engined 260, it sets some bloody quick track times, yes at 72 y/o!! He jad major issues with getting the cv shafts right, as the ones he had came rrom???, he ended up getting a local guy up here in Brissy to machine out of billet some sort of companion flange that worked. His issue was at xtreme droop, the cv inboard end would pop out of the diff, and leak diff oil past the spiral grooves

Looks like all items SOLD to RLY240 on here, subject to confirming transport costs, and pending payment

Yes, last of the LongDongs, mista richard-san!

Pmed you, yes tjey fit 2+2, will lower it, and stiffen it. Cutting more off will stiffen further, but risk arze dragging on earth over bumpy things.

Checked with Kings, these are not bone jarring race only type, but more suted to fast road, and some track day usage, part no as above They are out of a car, no scratches on very clean shiny yellow paint, and have pretty King's stamped letters and numbers, for impressing people!!

I have a set ie driver and passenger, of Britax brand generic stalked receptor retractable seat belts for sale, brand new, in boxes, Aus Design certified $150 the pair. Or a set of 260 coupe original belts, full set no fading, these are the ones with the bit that the belt loops through at ypur shoulder, that has thw lng vertical stalk, that bolts to the top and bottom at quarter window, just behind the B pillar. These are in excellent cond at $150 the pair .? Does ypur 240 shell have the threaded holes thete, or a single threaded hole, just below and behind the B pillar? Either of the above may be used, depends!

Yep, the nippled uni jpint ( sounds erotic!!) IS the weakest link in the chain. Try to replace, not sure if Hardy Spicer will have same, the diameters may need boring to fit something. Ask for non nippled, but i doubt if they can do that. A few have had the uni go in high grip situations, ie dragstrip starts, the track is extremely grippy, your situation of wide grippy tyres, similar thing! Now all of ypu running 12" wide rubber under ypur PhatPhlares, get under the car and check your nipples!

3.9 r200 open complete is still up for grabs. Garvice is a girly woman!!!

Got a set of cleaned njectors, ex L28efi $100 The Gap If you are going aftermarket efi and ecu or turbo setup, use vl commo turbo injectors, they are cheaper tjan Nissan RB30 turbo injectors!

Yeah Brad, let me know what you want? Atm ypur in for first pick its taken a bit to strip this thing, now i have a heap of other useless h30skyline crap to get to the scrappers, theres not much we can use, shame to see them chucked away, this one was full of rust, forum member got to it first pulled off the turbo stuff, the surge tank, a decent fuel pump, guages, even an oil pump, and left me to strip the rest

R200 open centre 3.9 diff, no stubs or half shafts Spot on ratio for lazy truck engines that are rpm limited at tracs like Phillip Island, or Bathurst ( for those not game to run 4.1 or 4.4!) Can supply cv joint half shafts and trailing arms with matching companion flanges, stubs and bearings, with r31 brake disca and calipers with all handbrake assy, all ex r30 skyline Diff at$200 Cv shafts, trail arms comp flanges, discs calipets and handbrake stuff, add anudder $200 Located Brisbane westside, can pack wrap and freight on a small pallet

Oh, i dont know, when we all get old, we tend to get a bit clunky! How many times do we all read threads/posts re, "my diff/rear/arse/back end etc it clunky/banging/noisy?" Its just something that is so easily overlooked, dont blame yourself, we all do it.

While ypu are under the car, run some spanners over the other drive shaft, and tailshaft to diff flange. Surprising that they are a bit loose? It happens, unfortunately, the other tging that can let go, is the grease nipple fitted uni jpints in the half shafts, the grease nipple thread causes a structural weakness. Solution? Climb under a Datsun 1600 or a 240K and nick thier halfshafts, no grease nipples in the uni's! Let us know the state of the remaining nuts and bolts?

Merriexesmas madz! Im glad to say i raced at Catalina in the mid 80's as rounds of the NSW CAMS Speed Event Championship were held atthete in 84, 85 & 86. I won my class in my old orange Datsun 1600 , got a couple of pics of me exiting rhe "tunnel of love" onto the straight in frint of the pits. Even better, my Datsun Sports 2000, driven by its original owner, David Mingay, won outright, races thete in late 60's early 70's, in the little Dato. One time on a driver familiarisation track walk, at Catalina, i asked the instructor, " what are all the deep gouges in the wooden sleepers at waist height from?" He replied, "back in the day, they'd come three wide through the tunnel of love, the outside cars door handles would be hard against the timber sleepers the whole way around, these were the big touring cars, Beechey, Jane, Et al" The gouges ate still there! And i hope santa brought ypu all, some lovely stuff, i got two bags of salted peanuts, and a rootard HR 30 turbo skyline to pull apart

From bloke in Lawnton Brisbane? Also known as Phils4Rotaries? He also does all panels for early Munro's, XWXY Falcoons and some Torrie stuff. Yes he knows they arent quite right, hes been told, but it is too late to fix the stamping dies up, he bought a rather low budget full stamping set up in Thailand, and is now doing whole Falcoon body shells! You will need some body finishing skills to get tjese right, but at least we can get them BTW i am coming down in March 2012 from Brissy to Melb, if anyone or a few want these delivered a little more carefully, i can pick them up and transport to Melb. A carton or a bottle ish nieshe!!

It was for the 120Y, but we discovered IT had something as good, so sell the complete msd6al2 complete in box woth all the stuff it comes with thingy including postage to you, at $390 Even has fancy stickers too! Oh and its not the chinese ebay one!

Set of rear lowered king springs for 260 z will fit 240z as well These are King brand and approx pound rating is 220 Part number is KDRS -09. These are the only afyermarket ones King list in their catalogue They have come out of a road use only car, and have had minimal use. Can box and post to you $150 pick up Brissie Westside Rear set only, no fronts, !!

Most others use an aftermarket tach, no probs thete, cant see why it wouldnt work with the stock tach Btw i have a brand new msd6al2 in box, with all the stuff they come with, for sale, bought it for a car, but found i already had a adjustable electronic ignition unit and higjer energy coil that came with it

Well, i run 15x8 rims, with a +4 mm offsett, tyres are 225/50 x15, and i have trimmed back approx 5 mm of the inner lip of the rear guards, over a span of about 250 mm to stop the sidewalls getting cut up. Csr has been loweted. If under you flares the guard has been cut away you could go as wide as the flare. In 17 inch, i have no idea, but a low profile tyre wont work as well on our cars due to geometry changes while cornering etc

Proper proportioning means using a pedal box, where the brake pedal operates two individual master cylinders at same time, by varying the master size of each, as well as using a screw in/out or more apt description side to side pedal pivot bar, allows more or less pressure to be applied to either side. Common race car practice. The"proportioning"valve which is often mentioned, is more accurately a line pressure reducing valve, and is screw adjustable. Our Zeds come with one, but, it is a fixed rear line pressure. By removing rhis and fitting an adjustable, we are able to increaee/reduce the amount of pedal effort affecting rhe rear brakes, it wont do anything for the fronts, if we use our normal master. Why fit it? So we can "balance"the car a little better under brakes. I like to have mine with a bit more rear pressure to nduce a touch of lock up going into cornets( race Group Sc 280z) in this way the guys up my arse crsp themselves, dont know wtf i am about to do, they back off, and i get 10 feet further in front, also rear drums need a bit more bias as the front stock calipets and discs cant handle race situations, so, why not get rhe back to help a bit more!

Pretty much every wednesday (sssssssssssssssssss!) is track practice at Morgan Park, yes you will need to obtain a cams licence and show you are a member of any club that is cams affiliated, dont have to be an Inky club. If anyone wanted to run, it'd be a good idea to contact WDSSCar club prior to going to check if its scheduled, as sometimes, it isnt, due to other events, and yes if it raining its not on. Sometimes you can be lucky, and only a half dozen are there, other times it is chockers! Mostly attended by the Warwick and locals, but all are welcome. Biggest issue, it's middle of the week gggrrr, be better if they did it on a friday prior to tne sprints weekend, they used to let all and sundry do it, but with 120or so turning up for the weekend, it gets busy on a friday. Oh, and it is not "racing" no racing occurs, it is lap dash/sprints, you are timed individually on the weekend, but no timing is done on Friday/Wednesday. Daffyd, is my spelling orright know???

Thats a Wednesday, hey David? Will warwick district sporting car club allow non saturday/sunday sprints enteted or series registeted vehicles, to attend their separate paid for practice sessions on the friday prior to each of the 8 sprints wedkends? Fyi guys an oil catch can can be qs simple as a olive oil tin with ypur rocker cover top breather hose fed into it, and the crank case breather hose fed into same thing, make sure it has a few vent holes on top for breathing etc Oh, nother thing, Historic Racing Car Club of Qld is also running a test and tune day on Saturday 25 th February., you dont need to be a member of a cqr club, you dont need to buy a years worth of cams licence, they'll hook you up with all that for the day, and cos its a car club thing, you can drive up and back with your concesdional rego cars, even if you just want to come for a look see. Will be lots of interesting old and new cars there too!

Youd be going from 7/8 ie 14/16 ths to 16/16 ths ie 1 inch, pedal will be harder will cause braking effort to occur earlier in pedal travel, and pedal wont travel as much as your used to. Yes you ,ay get front lock up, but the car should still have fitted the brake proportioning switchy thing, along with the rear brake line pressure reducer thingy, which stops the reats from locking as easily. When you fit it, let us all know, but only when safe conditipns, hey maybe do some before and afyer vids?

Halekelekimaka!