dat2kman

Lol, i try that, 9 times out of 10, they say no! But the one time!!! Yeah! pauly, let us know a bit about the Z's in the shed! Where bouts you in Trak, i used to be in Lambert off Orrong, just round corner from Allan Moffats "petrol station". Oh, and the ZX at 170 k, series 1 with Auto, at $4500? How neg is that???

Pm'ed you re 240z gearbox!

Dismantled engine has gone to a new lurker on hete, who has a KCPG 110 Skyline GT two door, model year 1971 Ultra rare He is keeping it as L20 A but with bit of a bore, as well he pivked up a n42 cylinder head for it, yes top of block will need notching to clear valves. Should be a cracker when done Atm the compleye body shell is still hete, just, ill be ringing tje crushets/towies this week to come take it away,,, but,, if you want it, tell me adap and come and take it away.bring trailer, dont worry about getting it onto trailer, i can do that for you. To get it off at ypur end, just tie shell to something, and drive trailer away!! Itll make a bit of noise when it lowets to the ground! Or i can unbolt more stuff and ypu come collect. Beer economy is good.

HJ to HX mid to late 70's Holden V8 go straigjt in, outlets are in pretty good positions, has higjer fin count, holds bit more liquid. Most NatRad shops should be able to supply, check their catalogue for specs. Why? By time you get the older copper style, its price etc, compare to an aftermarket ebay special, alloy rad, far more thernally efficient, and lighter too, you dont need three core either. Use Redline Water Wetter, or, Penrite Sin Coolant. Neiher contain ethylene glycol! They are more thermally efficient at transferring heat away from block into air Unless you live on Mt Kosciuosko

Yeah thats the name! Well by sounds of it he's a real gun business operator Try the other guys i mentioned. Other possibility, if you have a set of stocko steelies, maybe these other guys can cut off the outer, and weld in wider bands, used to be a very common practice many years ago, ie in days of EH Holdens! I even had a set of 5" stockos redone to 7", deep dish, lloked ok on my ld 1600, in early 1980's !! I got a clean set of 5" 240z steel rims, always toyed with the dea of banding them to 8", then whack on some original hubcaps, for that "sleeper" look.

Zac, these look like similar i seen on the Secret Drift forums. Few those guys getting 10" and stretching 7" tyres on em. Cant recall exact, but the manufacturer of those is Qld based, think it sorya sounded Like "Toy....." something

Has had a decent shave, chambers are closed peanut high comp, approx 35 cc's. Could do even better with some bigger valves and a bit more porting. This was running on twin Hitachi-SU's as per race rules, engine would go to 7800 often! Has inlet threaded holes for both injection manifold, ie a L 28 efi setup, or, a triple carb setup( thank Nissam!) was from a late model , That ran injection, so the injection relefs are already set in. If you were gonna setup bottom end with flat top pistons, they would need flycutting if you were to fit bigger valves. Cam towers are fitted, no camshaft. $150 Can pack and freight

Thats cool Ben, the Autronic is avail right now, the Microtech will take how long to order and arrive? Yep it is less cost, but they do less, and mapping is inferior to Autronic and Motec, but for basic control, should be pretty good When you do go for bigger better engine combo, youll no dobt want better control of it all, so $1600 for MT now, then$3000 for a good ecu late on.

Try?? Chris Neale at Wheel Revolution in Slacks Creek underwood area, i think hes in Moss st, failing that, Depulu Wheel Works somewhete out back of Nerang on the Gold Coast. Mob called RACE engineering used to be Sumner Park used to do it, they moved a couple years ago though Saw some?! Advertised on Secret Drift forum by member "milan"in chermside, but they look "orrible! 15x8 and 15 x 10 with some sort of riveted on silver pizza dish. Typical drift monkeys! On a Corrolla ke 70 lol lol lol!

Yes Autronic, at a $400 discount to cyrrent new retail price of $2500 Ie $2100

Autronic sm 4 for sale, and,,, Rest of post is advice re the stock L28 et ecu lack of availability, and rarity, and more importantly, to suggest you dont waste time and effort. Thats why i posted!!! You could try some more of the high performance drift car workshops that specialise in turbo high power configurations, they all seem to advertise how good they are on sites like Secret Dicks, or, Boost Loosing, but i suspect thats been done, a lot!

Think long and hard, to go your initial way, ie atmo, you can get a L28 to go quite well, a set of longer 133 mm rods from a L24, a set of basic cast flatop pistons, with pin height to suit rods and block, a bit off the top of the pistons to match it up. A good balance job on the balancer( get a good aftermarket one) crank, take a little meat off back of flywheel, and clutch, all balanced together. Match weight pistons and rods to lowest common weight. A set of triple sidedrafts, extractors, and the big C Coupe will be fun, throw on a set of whitewalls, keep the oh so unique 260C wheel trims, a nice combo. But wait,, Your second thought is use the L28 turbo stock exhaust manifold, a low blow turbo, a not so big front mount intercooler, grab a stock L28 injection manifold, fit VL commodore turbo injectors ( nissan rb30 turbo injectors are more expensive!) an afyermarket ecu to drive it all,, and,, thetes ypur torque and power, best of all ypu wont need to pull engine apart, as it has a low comp head and dished pistons, same, pretty much, as a USA 280zx turbo, just keep boost nice and low,,, after all the C is a Cruiser!

Dunlops are good like that, one event, work well, stick good, next event, slippy slidey, chuck em. The tarmac rally boys love them, but just one event over a couple of days. Next event, a brand new set. I dont understand why they love these, but i suppose it is monkey see, monkey do! Different compound and constructions. Other brands last a lot longer, some stay good for years. In circuit i wont use Dunny's, cos only good for 1 weekend and they go concretey. I'll stick to others! At least they last for three to four meets

Will need a full run down of exactly what ypu have done, what ecu you are running, etc. Did you simply unbolt remove and reattach, the complete efi setup, including loom from a injected 280zx? Did you get and fit the afm, the coil, the dizzy, the engine temp sensors? The oem loom for the stock ecu will need to be connected to power source, lets hope you connected everything like for like, kept it all labelled so you know what goes to what. You were asking for injectors recently, told us you got some, what wete tjey, and what from? Is the rear of car fuel delivery system up to the job, what setup? These will be the questions a shop will want to know before going anywhwre near your home conversion, and most shops wont go near it, the ones that will, will charge accordingly.

How's the song go,,, (sing along, out loud, top of your voices) Sometimes,,,,, all I need is the fuel that i breathe,,, just to drive you!!! ( The Hollies, or Simply Red, circa mid 80's) Now how many of you all just tried that line, out aloud??? Cmon, admit to it right here, right now! Waddya mean not much left,, thetes a heap of me,, but i still petsist in spending the nth degree in making a car lighter! Oopps, They're comming to take me away ha ha, they're coming to take me away!!

Ooohhhhhh, worth a sticky!!!

Old semi slicks?? I had a set of Yokohama A008 R's on 13 x7 rims on my 1600 in NSW in 1988, move forward to 2001, stuck them on a rather intetesting 120y i had ( no not the Fury car, but its sister- yes it had a double-incompleye mind you), ran it at Lakeside here in Qld, bingo, 12 years old, still worked a treat! Atm i have a set of 14 x9 inch deep Watanabes with Toyo Proxes RA1's fitted, these are now 7 years old, i use them for sigle lap vents, like hillclimb, street sprints, but not mutiple laps on circuit, tjey stick like doodoo to a soft woolen hairy blanket, still. Yes all were/are kept indoors away from sun. Hey, i didnt know the paint on stuff is a no no! Besides i use the one tjat DOESNT smell!!

Pm'ing you! BANG, that was nice and quick, Just like a country lad visiting a knock shop for the very first time!

Autronic SM4 brand new complete here! At $400 discount to new price too! Cheaper than Motec, and as good, much better than Microtech The stock l28 turbo ecu will NOT do what you are wanting it to do, based on what your plans are, so dont bother, and, you most likely wont find any for sale in Aus. I have a couple, but they are NFS.

Only cos i reckon more look in parts for sale than in here!

FREE before it goes to the crushets, fully dismantled L series six cylinder engine block, its a L20 Turbo block, with 79 mm bore, short throw crank, 133 mm rods and pistons. Take whatever you want. Block would very nicelu lend itself to boring out to ressurect ypur L24 or L 26, bore alls seem reasonable tbickness. Located westside Brisbane, fully dismantled, has main caps and jpurnal caps. Why did i put a FREE ad hete, cos I reckon more of you look at stuff for sale, rather tnan in tne giveaway sectipn!!! This has come out of a POS R30 Turbo Skyline, which is worth zip all, and its full of loose jnk and crap and is off to car crushets end of next week!

It's position will be?? Under our cars is a metal box fuel cell, vented correctly as per emissions requirements, all quite legal. If you were thinking of removing the stock cell/tank, and fitting, say a round shape thing in the area whwr the spare would normally sit, it would need a flame and fume proof cover over it, and the recepticle it sits in be vented. The tank itself would be vented as per our normal venting. In this pos it raises your centre of gravity, ie 40 kgs of weight sloshing about. I am doing a 40 litre approx alloy tank going into same position as original underfloor metal strap slung original pinholed rusted out 45 year old tank, one from a boat shop is pretty close, tne boat mob use them as an underfloor sub tank in runabouts.

Keep out of sunlight, wrap them in plastic cling wrap, if they get a bit old, you can buy/borrow? A bottle of a product called "Bite" or "Grip" often used by the hillclimb giys to soften rubber and make sticky, follow instructions. It works. One smells really strongly of Deep Heat Dencorub , whatever you do, do NOT rub the stuff on your skin. Apply direct the tread area with a paintbrush. Of course, i know nothing about these sorys of things. "Bite"does not smell. The Quaryer Mile giys use this stuff as well.

Clutch dump drag starts !!! Bite bite bite! I knew someone would,,,,,,roflmao!

My NEW msd6al2 genuine one, not chinese knock off, as avail, $390 inc postage. Can supply more if any wants, bulk buy 10 or more discounts avail. I will not supply crud, if any wants low cost, check out evilbay!