dat2kman

BRITAX i think?? are in Adelaide, they make new belys for all sorts, they may?? be able to reweb what ypu have, and even nicer stitch on current labels? Otherwise Simpson used to do a SFI harness rewebbing service, they kay do regular seatbelts. Failing them, there is a mob hete in Qld that sell Aerotech brand seats and seat belt harness assy to some circuit guys, but more to the speedway guys, their belts are SFI rated, and tjey reweb, as tje SFI stuff is shorter dated tjan FIA CAMS belts. Google them, make the enquiry see if tjey can help ypu out to peplicate ypur original stock webbings.

Torana hippie, ypur're a new lad around hete, dont worry about all this silliness, i can assist you! Few years back, we grafted a LJ XU1 GTR original body onto a Subaru Brumby ute chassis, only because the Brumby chassis had a turbo EJ20 engine from a WRX STI 22B rally car fitted to it. It was sort of wrong, because the rules for Group G rally cars only allowed us to use the car in rallysprints, motorkhanas and hill climbs. We did make sure we started with an already current registered car(Torana) as to get the new conversion engineered for rego, we though may have been a touch hard! Anyway, yes, it will work, we know! If you are going the other eay, ie a Subaru body onto a Torana chassis, you need to get the one particular model LX Torane, the GT-X this was a one off experimental car GM made, hence the X, it had a full chassis, that was supposed to take their then fantastic new flat six engine, desiigned for very low centre of gravity, the body had a very low wedge shaped nose, a bit like Billy the Steam Shovel, from the Mr Squiggle TV show. It looked very futuristic. Go for it, ypu wont regret it. We all will!!!

EASY!!,, fly business class, they allow heaps extra weight in luggage, Virgin are good for up to 69 kilograms. I still reckon that jas a sezual conotation, ie the 69, typical randy Richy Branson!! Only little issue, the business class ticket is just a teeny bit more expensive than a pleb class ticket! Oh well, at least ypu could drill holes in it for lightness, why not stock up oneruvian Marching powder at same time!

If you REALLY wanted to do it, get a plasme cutter!!!, and cut the whole floor pan, with all sispension pickups and mounts, out of the z31, do the same with the zx, and just weld the z31 back half inner floor pan. Thete will be a few gaps, Sikaflex will fix these. The upper strut top mounts may need playes welded onto the zx, just cut these out of the 31 and weld them in. Try to measure from front crossmember to rear points to ,ake sure you get the new grafted rear floor pan as square as possible. Make sure its all done on an already registerd zx, that way you wont need to get it engineered. Back in old days when fronts of one car would be welded onto back of anotjer car, ie re-birthing, we would use black schutz a thick tar like coating on the underside, to hide joins. For the interior, just use heaps of glue to glue carpet to floor pan, that way, no-one can lift carpet to check for any dodgy business. I wont tell, if ypu wont tell, OK?

OP doesn't know what he is on about. I knew they wouldn't fit! Only fit on old Corrolla's!

Penrite diff oil will foam. Try the Castrol LSX, also, i shove into breather hole a bit of tube, then press on a short bit of hose, upright, maybe zip tie to something, and stick an old used plastic fuel filter into top of hose, sort of a small reservior, keeps everything clean underneath, simple fix.

They had both fitted, dunno when and on what, easiest is crawl under it, and measure the width f the back plare where the fill and drain plugs go, check allyours, narrow? Is r180 etc. Stew Wilkins out at Mulgrave can source KAAZ although you are hetter off getting a regular Nissan Clutch pack limo, as a few who have used the kaaz when driven at near limits, have had them release with violent results, and in couple cases car damage. If chading a r200 i have a complete limo one in 3.9 ratio, they are easy to swap hemispheres over into your existing. Your n Syd, so it'd be eastern creek or wakefield, depending on if you like running at 7000 rpm, use a 4.4, to be safe try to find a 4.1, the 3.9 will be safe for rpms.

Nah, long races ie 20 to 25 laps at Eastern Creek and Morgan Park, not a problem, 12 laps around PI in full race, no issue. Off road rally use yes, the car is running all day/all night will cover 500 plus kms, hard use, so yes. In usa the old Z race cars in SCCA racing used to run plumbed in coolers using fill and drain outlets. For what most of us do, they are fine. Only issue some get, it depends on oil used, the oil can foam up a bit and dribble up out the breather, if it does it will be a tiny amount, dont fret, wipe underside cean, keep going. When get home, dump it and try another brand. I like Castrol LSX for the clutch pack limos, othets rave about Mobil synthetic gear fluid. Bursons/Autobarns/Repco sell a penrite LSD additive , it stops chatter in the plates, that works well. Save ypur money, buy stickier tures instead!

Will these fit Z struts? 240 and 260? Will the plus 21 mm clear struts on a 280zx? Have you tried them? On your car? Pictures of them fitted! Is that $749 australian dollars ? Do they have any gutter rash? Where is the place of business you call "Field Garage" Ben from Otomoto can supply genuine Watanabes!

Seen plenty of short nose r200 in Sy Via skyline late models, the moustache bar mount bolt spacing is wrong for us, it cant be modded ie drilled and tapped, as there is no "meat"where we need it. You could try to mod a spare one, by drilling some largish say 30 mm holes, and ally weding a bit of a box, then ally weld some electronic type heat sinks on the box, increasing volume and surface area, would need to weld up a boss to take a tapped hole for tje drain. Gotta ask, why ypu think ypu need a finned cover?? How hot do you get the diff? We had a remote cooler using a Jabsco water puppy pump, hooked up to the bottom and top fill/drain plugs used approx 1/2 oil hose, mounted small 9 row engine oil cooler between tank qnd rear beaver panel, all protected, but,,, it would only get turned on when we new temps were up, otjerwise the pump will sieze due to high viscosity of cool oil. This was in the rally 260Z that won the NSW State rally champs in late 1980's

These were exported to Australia only, i think around 100 or so only got here, so quite rare. The CSP owners will be all onto this one. The bits missing will be impossible to find. They are a full chassis. Nissan just put this coupe body, straight onto a whole roadstwr chassis with all roadster mechanicals, still plenty of roadster stuff avial, just, but the CSP body fittings and interior bits will be tough. Easy to upgrade motor to a 2 litre using H20 internals into the R block, and a pair of 240Z carbs will wake it up

The little tiny weeny, hard to see in a heated intense situation, red low pressure warning lamp buried down in the instrument cluster, goes off at around 8 to 10 psi of pressure, on start up. In a lets say race stuation, you are cornaring and acceleratiing, the head valve train is full of oil, the sump is lowish, oil has shifted away from the pickup, you are concentrating on the view out the windscreen,,,,,, you wont see the little weeny tiny 8 psi low limit light flash on! Fit a higher say 20 psi sender, a top of dash mounted hi intensity red led mini lamp, aimed at your eyes, youll crap yourself at how often it may flash. Only thing NOT. To do is hang a T piece brass adaptor off side of block, to fit both senders, use a couple of push on hi press barb fittings, and hose, and remote mount the tee on inner guard, earth the tee! Block harmonics can fracture the tee where it screws into the block, ,, think about all the weight of the two senders attached, same goes for those that use a tee for light sender switch, and oil pressure guage. I have had two snap off at the pissy tiny 1/8 th npt thread where it goes into block.

You dont need to drop the lower control arms, You will need to rotate shafts, and insert a long handle screw driver blade into uni joints openings to stop them spinning as you undo the nuts holding the inner ends of the half shafts to the diff output flanges. Just then undo the two nuts on centre of rear moustache bar, undo two bolts holding front of diff to front diff mount, then undo bolt holding diff mount to fronta x member, remove the rubber band loop bolts. Lift nose of diff, slide forward, till rear studs clear, it will drop out, just be aware it is heavy!! I have romoved diffs on car ramps, not difficult, you just need to get good leverage on the two spanners to undo inner half shaft ends. Pfft car stands!! Use chunks of hardwood!!!

my old granpappy says" Son, you go git ma shotgun, we is gonna git us sum poontang" How much was a pint of milk, a Holden car, a meat pie, then and now, its all pretty relative, and in 2030, it will still be relative. We think what we have is good, but do we think what our grandpa had was good, today? No Will out grandchildren think what we like and cherish today will be good in future, most likely no! It's the way of the world I'd like to think my 43 year old all its olife a race car, will be admired in 2030, but it will prob be one of the very few left, and put inside a glass box, or stored at Nissan;s ZAMA storeage facity, along with a certain 120Y that they have requested be sent there!, Thats pleasing to know!

It's called an " English" wheel, it turns a flat piece of metal into a 3 dimensional (curved both ways) item, ie a boot lid for a MG Magnette, or a front guard for a Austin A40. You use heat played on the outside and some chemical powder on inside to de- coke an exhaust, a quick fix also was to slowly pour a particular fluid down a carburrettor ( remember them!) throat, this would partially de-carbonise a cylinder head. A Studebaker Hawk Gt, or. Lark, had a central pitman arm, linked to wheel hubs by two very long arms, the pitman was linked to a steer box, that could be mounted on eitjer chassis rail, by a drag link. The police were sold 292 cubic inch Larks, fitted with Paxton Superchargers. Is old fellers dont like computers, we cant roll them into shape, they dont take kindly to applications of heat and diesoleum, and we cant fit Paxton blowers. I have issues with them.

So, you are now coming back to me, with a PM. As of 9 pm tonite!! I have replied, as simply as possible, and EXPLAINED to you that i offered them at a discount to the above post. Read my last line in my post .re "discount" I dont have to sell anything to you, but maybe others on here may like to see some prices relevant to the topic, and they might jump on and grab them, based on your reply to me, as above, since i'm not "serious"! PZG302 has some, as well, he might do you a good price?? His are x race car, so should be really goid ones. Just a little word of advice. Dont flame people, it'll just come back to you in multiples!

Hello! Two ways, get whatever takes your fancy, be prepared to be a little bit exasperated in its restoration/rebuild etc,,, or,, wait a bit, take your time, save a few dollars while doing so, and get a very good one, then make it the way ypu want it. Either way, you'll be sure to enjoy

Yes, me too! And what to do if the photo on the ipad is too big pixel wise for tje 250 kb or whatever size is max we can post. Gee, and this is just after Zedman240 taught me how to open and resize in Paint on my Windows pc. This could end up information overload,,,, ooohhh, my head hurts!

Current 280z Group S race car, approx 5 years, Previuos 260 2seat White with blue stripes, 1 year, guy i bought it off missed it so much he HAD to buy it back! Prior to Z's there has been various Datsuns in my ownetship since 1980, At least 4x 1600's, 2x180B SSS, 2x 120Y ( current one is a 240Y though!) 2x1200 coupes, R32GTR Godzilla ( not road reg), 1x Datsun L series engined Formula Libre open wheeler race car, 1x abberation of normality, a Datsun 1600 sports sedan with a 13b rotary, and, five x Datsun Sports 2000 convertibles, still have 3 of them, one is a very famous all original circuit racer, still in its 1969 racing specification. A reasonable cross section!

Well sad, and welcome! Your passion is sure to be appreciated. I still reckon you could write a book though!

Agree, why not let us know what you drive atm, what your interests are, your aspirations, a little about ypurself, maybe in the introduction section. Going over your 28 posts so far, you dont strike me as what one may term a forum junkie. You posted a Wtd to buy, and then wer're all into some deep and meaningfulls! Its almost research stuff? Ive had girlfriends that didnt get that deep!

You writing some sort of book? Asking plenty random questions, going on your older threads! I'll tell you one thing, in 2030 there will still be groups of people who will race their old historic collectable cars, and, sure as horse doo doo stinks, there will still be an anti Japanese car contingent amongst the racing fraternity. You can put that in the book!

Google NICE Products, they have online catalogue, most auto accesory shops can get them in They do a stud in both 38 and 44 mm long. Go the 44's Thread is 12 x 1.25 mm I use their 75 mm ones with slip on spacets for race cars. They also do nuts.

Sonny jim, go and buy some NEW ones, stop farking around with crap, you say you wont pay retail price for new, so buy second hand. The above prices are for what i have for sale. You try to sell me a POS r30 rusted heap, for $400 (in ypur dreams pal) with more stuff removed from it that what we both agreed to. I give no shite for ypur lame excuses, the oil pump is missing, the head studs are missing, the fantastic diff you said it had was missing, so you said, ok $100 but DUDE where is the oil pump, the studs the diff! GONE, so i figure fair enuf, ill cut you a deal on injectors, hemce nice price, but now you flame me, so just trot off and get some new ones, they'll set tou back about a hundred apiece! Tried to help you out with ypur car, but all i get from you is indecision and no answers!!

Still got this 3.9 clutch pack limo in Brisbane. Make a good Phillip Island jobbie!