dat2kman

Get onto pzg302, he did have a couple for sale, long motors i think.

Can transport to Melbourne in early March!

Can transport this to Melbourne in early March, for the Melbum peeps!

Silly question, any leaks? What oil and how old? Try an oil change, Redline Lightweight Shockproof is usually pretty good in a noisy box. When you pull the drain plug out, have a close look at any chunks on the magnet, and drain oil into say a white 4 litre ice cream bucket, then pour out slowly into another, the shiny glisteny stuff will be very fine shavings of the brass synchro rings. Put plug in, fill up, go for dive, report back. Dont be too worried about a few little 1 mm chunks, its the pieces of gear toothe, if any will mean it has to come out. I have stock gearsets avail, for your local gearbox shop to replace, if you have any big chunks missing! $150 a set (1,2 and 3rd) including postage. ( it'll just be the oil has lost it's ability to protect the meyal to metal contact, in 8 out of 10 cases!!

Not resisting! Pm'ed OP Dunno why i do this, but these could look nice on one of the road Dato 2000's Only hassle is getting them,,, but we think we have a solution!!

Hello Aub! Why not, just keep it all Z centric, do like all other single model clubs do, agree to meet at a central location that suits all ( watch for the arguments on that one!) just gather at a local park, lift bonnets, go Ooh Aahh a lot, than have a dinner, tjen go for a drive on some nice country roads, not too rough though, dont want paint chips on the trailer queens. Forget any competition, sprints lapdash, hillclimb, etc etc, as that is consideted too risky to a clubs finances, nowadays! As low event entrant (Z cars only) numbers will make the risk of track hire anywhere, to cost prohibitive, and, lack of CAMS officials within a club, along with the manpowere required to run events, will negate it. A loose AASA run event, tacked on the back of a pre-existing AASA organised event, could satisfy the mine's fastwr than your's brigade. There is no reason at all that a Z only Nationals could be run, at any time, considering the plethora of Jap based car shows/events etc tjat are held all over the country these days.

I'm at The Gap, so Alderly is not far, and got a van so room isnt an issue!

The Euro tarmac classic rally guys, in their old Mk2 Ford Escorts, are mounting the Focus/volvo 5cylinder turbo motor in a north south config, and mating tnese to sequential 6 speed boxes, and 5.1 ratio diffs, using 13 x8" rims with open grooved slicks. Wild bits of kit, some are putting out 400hp at flywheel. One of these hybrid things in a Mk1 Escort shell ran at the 2011 Alpine rally. Dunno who or what makes the box, but it would have to be half eay close to what you're trying to achieve. I do not tbink thay have a high enough torque rating Have a look at the National Sports Sedan forums, some of those guys are into the big units

All that power? You'll need to go to a Holinger sequential ex V8 supataxi box. Big budget build, the box will set you back arounf $25,000 Current spec Supataxis box is the same no ,atter id its a Fud or a Hildan

The correlation to Webets is uncanny!

from pole position to zero in one turn!!

and

pics atached I hope!

Oh, i got plenty of Datsun V Ferrari, a big black V12 GTC BB Ferrari, pics of battle damage too Using both kinds of Datsun, a Z and a tiny weeny little cute four cylinder Datsun!!

Fwiw, hete in Oz there is a spring maker called Kings, he does the same spring part number for the rear of both 240 and 260, however when this spring is fitted to a 260 rear leg, he claims it is "lowered" approx 1", but when same spring is fitted to a 240 rear leg, it is "standard" height. Dunno about the fronts. In your first post you ,ake mention of "longer" and "shorter" uummmm, why not run shorter at both front and back? Other tging ypu cpuld try, sounds horrid on brand new things, as ypu cant return tnem for an exchange, but try to, is, to cut a coil or two off the new springs!!! Loose between the spring seats? Simple fix, drill small 3/16 holes on insides of spring perches, and use tie wire to secure springs in place? Next option, rempve lower spring perch, in a lathe, and reweld back on car a bit lower down, but be aware of your shock insert min and max travels for bottoming out.

Whatever you try to do by "eye" will be so far out of true, dont worry about it, its the aligners job. Biggest issue is the rear end can be allsorys if it has had a kiss on a kerb or gutter. Offsett adjustable rear bushes can fix, or a slitting and rewelding of a rear lower arm can fix. Try a wheelbase measure each side, is wheels straight, on level ground, not up on stands, an extra pair of hands is an idea. Use bits of sticky tape on ground and texta marker, use a carpentets set square, hang a short plumb bob off stick down tape mark, roll car off, measure the diagonals, the wheelbases. Dont worry about guard haps etc, or length of thread on adjust castor rods, cars get bented!

Just a hunch, but maybe "forumbattle" and " motorculture" are one and the same? Similar posts are on many other forums atm! Advertising?

Work out the individual square cm area of the four original pistons, then compare to the square cm area of the eight new ones, any increase in sq cm area difference will mean that ypur master cylinder will need to displace more fluid for same given amount of pad movement. Try your system as it is, there may be more pedal travel, ina race/sprint situation with possibility of brake fade, the pedal will get closer to the floor behind much quicker. The slight diffetence 14/16 to 15/16 will mean more fluid is pushed through the master, equating to less pedal travel, but slightly more effort

You've had what 8 or 10 thrown at you, have ypu managed to get to look at any in the flesh? Stipulating sth west qld, what town are you in? Maybe some of us have spotted a good one close to you? None of them will be perfect for the money, but whatever ypu get will be sure to be a project. The plus 2's are more plentifull at least.

Bobcat, yeah! I use a 2500 kg 2" ratchet steap around the tread, yep, squeeze it in, beads seat, and presto! But after so many slow leaks and popping tyres off beads(no beadlock on skidsteer rims! ) i now use 4x4 16" inner tubes.

Stretch fitting the soft way, above. Stretch fitting the quick way, Aerostart and a BBQ lighter!

THAT is a good price! From someone who has gone through three of them, they dont take kindly to grit and dirt in the ram seals, it's just the design of them, it cant be helped! I got the tom tits, pulled two apart, and replaced the grit infested worn seals, work ok now, but not easy to do. Get this, at that price it's a ripper!

Trawl the for sales, or, i have a 3.9 clutchpack lsd complete forsale, in Brisbane, but i can transport it to Melbourne on about March the 6th $1300 Sorry dont need the 4.3, but as an open centre complete diff it would sell for around the 250 mark.

Yes, two different type of lining backing shoe design, and backing plates with adjusters. Drums are all the same, new id is 228.6 worn id is 230.0 Im out to 231 id and getting cracks to drum linings. I do have a bendix or something chart page photocopy,,, somewhere,,, that has the two lining model reference numbers. Best idea, if you need linings, just send your old ones away for re lining, ask for "taxi" or heavy duty, last ones i did approx $80 for all four, and they match ground them to suit the half worn drums.

Oooh yes! The set i have here are the rack and pinipn ones, i'll do a measure up and post to see if any differencesto the steer box/draglink ones! Simon, other thing to consider is re drilling the inner lca pivot bolt, holes, further outwards, and upwards, the guys with Dato 1600's would go out 15 mm and up 15 mm and weld on a large flat washer for extra strength to stop hole ripping out. This also helps bump steer, and keeps the outboard ends of the lca's angled downwards, on a lowered setup